-
How to prevent and control gummosis in cherry trees? Growers need to master these methods
Symptoms Gummosis is an important disease of cherry trees, and its symptoms fall into two types: dry rot type and canker type gummosis. The dry rot type mostly occurs on the trunk and main branches. In the early stage, the lesions are irregular, dark brown, and hard on the surface, often causing gumming. In the later stage, the lesions become elongated, dry-shrunken and sunken, sometimes with cracking around them, and densely covered with small black dots on the surface.
-
How to Build a Protective Shed for Cherry Cultivation? Key Technical Points Explained
1. Selecting suitable varieties Suitable excellent early-maturing or mid-early-maturing cherry varieties for greenhouse cultivation include: Zhifu Red, Red Lantern, Red Cherry, Rainier, Sato Nishiki, etc. Spur-type varieties and varieties with strong self-fruitfulness include: Spur Pioneer, Spur Stella, etc. Plant
-
What to Do If Your Cherry Tree Won't Bear Fruit? Try These Solutions
There are many reasons for failure to bear fruit, specifically the following: 1. The climate may be unsuitable. 2. Improper cultivation and management, leading to excessively vigorous tree growth, with no flower buds formed, will also result in no fruit. 3. Severe pests and diseases or poor fertilizer and water conditions, insufficient stored nutrients in the tree, leading to poor flower bud development and severe flower and fruit drop during the flowering period; or due to continuous rainy weather or sudden low temperatures during the flowering period, resulting in poor pollination and fertilization.
-
Four Fertilization Methods for Pollution-Free Cherry Cultivation
1. Radial trench or ring trench method: For the radial trench method, dig outward starting 50 cm from the trunk, narrow and shallow on the inside (30 cm) and wide and deep on the outside (40-50 cm), with the trench extending to 20 cm beyond the canopy projection, and dig 4-6 trenches per tree. For the ring trench, dig at the canopy projection, with a width of 50 cm
-
Key Techniques and Precautions for Summer Pruning of Cherry Trees
One, pinching. Its purpose is to control vigorous shoot growth, increase the number of branches and branching orders, promote the transformation of branch types, and expand the canopy. This measure is mainly used on young trees and vigorous trees. The best time for pinching is during the rapid growth period of new shoots. When the new shoots reach about 20-25 cm in length,
-
What are the control methods for cherry wood rot?
The symptoms appear on various wound sites such as frost injury, insect injury, and mechanical injury on branches and trunks, where small fruiting bodies of the pathogen are scattered or clustered, which are its external symptoms. The affected xylem forms a rather indistinct white sapwood rot. Pathogenic fungus, Basidiomycota, Agaricomycetes, Aphyllophorales
-
How to make cherry field management more effective
The annual management technical points for cherry trees are as follows: 1. From November to early March of the following year, winter pruning and orchard cleanup. Currently, 3 main tree forms are used in production: ① Natural open-center form; generally the trunk heading height is 45-60 cm, trunk height 30-50 cm, 3-5 main branches, main branch angle about 30°. Each main branch cultivates 5-7 side branches, arranged in layers, generally 4-5 layers, 1-2 per layer, with a layer spacing of 60 cm, side branch spacing of 30 cm, and side branch angle of 50°, mainly cultivating side or dorsal-slanting side branches; ② Clustered natural form; generally 5-6 main branches, with the trunk and main branches clustered near the ground. The main branches bear 3-4 side branches or large fruiting branch groups; ③ Central-leader layered form; trunk height 50 cm, tree height 2.5-3 m. 6-8 main branches, arranged in 3-4 layers. The first layer has 3-4 main branches, each bearing 4-6 side branches respectively, with a main branch angle of 60°. The second and third layers have 2 main branches each, with an angle of 45°. The fourth layer main branch angle should be less than 45°. The side branches borne on the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th layer main branches are all 2-4. The layer spacing between the 1st and 2nd main branches is 70-80 cm, and the layer spacing between the 2nd and 3rd layer main branches is 60-70 cm. The trunk heading height of cherries is determined according to the requirements of different high-yield tree forms. After planting, in the first year, generally 3-5 branches can be produced. During pruning, select and retain good main branches according to the specific branching situation. For cultivating the layered form, first retain the upright strong branch below the pruning cut as the central leader, with a suitable cut length of 50 cm; then select 2-3 healthy branches with suitable angles as main branches. For cultivating the natural open-center form, first select and retain 2-4 healthy branches with suitable angles as main branches. After trunk heading, if the branching position is too low, it can be cultivated into a clustered natural form. In the second year after planting, for cultivating the natural open-center form, select and retain branches with suitable angles as side branches at 60 cm from the base of the main branch. For the central-leader layered tree form, select the side branches on the first layer main branches well, and select the second layer main branches on the central leader at 70-80 cm from the upper first-layer main branch. In the 3rd-4th year after planting, continue to cultivate the main and side branches. Cherries grow rapidly. During the young tree period, maintain the dominant-subordinate relationship of the tree body well, pay attention to balancing tree vigor, and open the branch angles. Make full use of summer pinching and other measures to increase the amount of branches and leaves, cultivate fruiting branch groups as much as possible, and lay the foundation for early fruiting and early high yield. After entering the initial fruiting stage, the focus is on cultivating skeletal branches and fruiting branch groups. For those cultivated as branch groups, leave 20 cm and shorten in the first year; in the second year, shorten the first bud branch again, thin the dense ones and leave the weak ones for the remaining branches, and shorten moderate branches to promote branching; in the third year, thin out the strong vigorous branches at the tip of the branch group, leave the lower moderate and weak branches unpruned, and gradually cultivate them into compact branch groups. For varieties with strong branching ability, when using moderate branches to cultivate fruiting branch groups, first heavily shorten; after branching in the second year, pinch the new shoots to promote branching; in the third year, thin out the strong branches at the tip. Leave moderate and weak branches unpruned, and gradually cultivate them into fruiting branch groups. After entering the full fruiting stage, in order to maintain and rejuvenate the growth vigor of skeletal branches, heavily cut the extension branches of skeletal branches. Retract large and medium fruiting branch groups, moderately thin flower-bud-like fruiting branches, promote branching, and enhance tree vigor. Thin out strong upright branches and overly dense branches. Other 1-year-old branches are generally not shortened, and can be capped at the blind node or have the terminal bud broken to promote leaf-cluster-like short branches. In full-fruiting-stage trees, the proportion of short fruiting branches is relatively large, and short fruiting branches that bear fruit continuously for 5-6 years become budless empty branches and die. Therefore, reserve branches need to be retained during pruning. To prevent the fruiting part from moving outward and the inner crown from becoming bare, strengthen retraction of branch groups in the crown and renew and rejuvenate them.</p><p>2. Mid-to-late March, fertilize and irrigate, prepare pesticides. If basal fertilizer was not applied in autumn, it should be supplemented in spring. Irrigate the whole orchard thoroughly once. Boil lime sulfur mixture.</p><p>3. Early-to-mid April, intertillage, spraying, flowering-stage foliar fertilizer, frost prevention. After irrigation, carry out intertillage in time, with a suitable loosening depth of about 6 cm. When the tree buds swell, generally spray once with 3-5 Baume lime sulfur mixture to eliminate overwintering pests and diseases. Spray 0.1%-0.2% borax or 0.3%-0.4% monopotassium phosphate. Cherry flowering is easily damaged by late frost. In places with more late frost, irrigate once before cherry flowering to delay the flowering period and avoid frost damage.</p><p>4. Late April to early May, topdressing after flowering, summer pruning, irrigation, prevention and control of pests and diseases. Begin topdressing after cherry petals fall, with an average of 1 kg nitrogen fertilizer per fruiting tree, and 0.25 kg for small trees. Remove double buds and overly dense buds. From petal fall to harvest, irrigate once per week on average. After harvest, determine the number of irrigations according to soil moisture conditions. During this period, spider mites, aphids, scale insects and other pests are likely to occur. Apply corresponding insecticides for control, and clear weeds in the orchard.</p><p>5. Mid-May to late June, harvest. Early-maturing varieties such as Zaozi are generally harvested in mid-May. After that, mid-to-late maturing varieties such as Napoleon and Yellow Jade also mature one after another. Harvested cherry fruits should retain the fruit stalk, and care should be taken to pick and place them gently, and pack and transport them carefully to avoid damage.</p><p>6. July-August, intertillage and weeding, summer pruning, prevention and control of pests and diseases. Remove all weeds in the orchard and transport them outside the orchard for green manure. During the rainy season, when new shoots grow vigorously, pinch in time to ensure ventilation and light transmission of the tree body. In autumn, tent caterpillars are likely to occur and eat leaves, so corresponding insecticides should be sprayed.</p><p>7. September-October, fertilize, irrigate, loosen soil, and plow the ground. Apply basal fertilizer by the ring-shaped trench method, with 100-250 kg organic fertilizer per large tree and about 50 kg per small tree. After fertilization, irrigate thoroughly once. After irrigation, when the soil is no longer sticky, plow the whole orchard once.</p>
-
Detailed Explanation of Key Points of Fertilizer Spraying Technology for Cherry Cultivation
(1) Fertilizer spraying timing: Foliar fertilizer can be sprayed from after the cherry tree sprouts until before maturity, and even before leaf fall; (2) Fertilizer types: Any nutrient elements required by crops can be used as fertilizer spray types; (3) Purpose of fertilizer spraying: It is to supplement fertilizer to cherry trees through foliar spraying;
-
Methods for Pest and Disease Control in Cherry Trees During Winter Dormancy
Using manual and agricultural methods, clean the orchard, eliminate overwintering sources of pests and diseases, effectively eliminate harmful organisms, and reduce the overwintering population base. 1. Sweep up fallen leaves: Fallen leaves are one of the main overwintering sites for many pests and diseases, such as the pathogens of cherry brown spot disease and black ring rot, which
-
A Complete Guide to the Key Points of Post-Harvest Management Techniques for Cherry
From after fruit harvest to leaf fall, during this period the nutrients produced by the leaves are no longer consumed by the fruit, but are used for the further differentiation and filling out of flower buds, thickening of branches and trunks, maturation of tissues and accumulation of the main nutrients. Therefore, if management during this period is good, it will not only
条件筛选