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How to Grow Astragalus? Detailed Explanation of Planting Methods and Key Techniques
Astragalus has very strong adaptability and can be grown in general soil. It is relatively drought-tolerant and afraid of waterlogging. It is cold-resistant and can overwinter in the field, but deep, loose, fertile soil can yield high production. Continuous cropping is prohibited. Cultivation management: ① Planting method: Propagate by seed. Both pre-winter sowing and spring sowing are possible. Pre-winter sowing is done at the Frost's Descent to Start of Winter solar terms, and spring sowing at the Spring Equinox to Grain Rain solar terms. It should be noted that the seeds have many hard seeds, poor water absorption, and a relatively low germination rate, so the seed collection season and collection period should be well controlled. Harvest when the seeds turn brown; when the seeds are fully mature and turn black with spots, they become hard seeds and rarely germinate. To improve the germination rate, seed priming treatment should be done before sowing. Soak the seeds in warm water at 50°C, stirring constantly until cool, with the amount of water just enough to cover the seeds. After soaking for 6—12 hours, remove the seeds, put them into a cloth bag to promote germination, and then sow. Astragalus seeds generally germinate in 3 days. If sowing cannot be done in time, losses will be caused, so generally no germination-promoting treatment is done and seeds are sown directly, but a germination test should be done in advance. Use 1—1.5 kg of new seeds per mu. Before sowing, choose sandy soil with high terrain, deep soil layer, good drainage, and strong water permeability, apply sufficient base fertilizer, plow and harrow finely, make wide beds and level them. After watering and 3—5 days, when one can enter the bed to work, use an iron rake to level the bed surface, open shallow furrows 2 cm deep at a row spacing of 23—27 cm, evenly scatter the seeds into the furrows, push along the furrows once with the corner of a large hoe, and closely combine the seeds with the moist soil at the bottom of the furrows. Then rake the loose soil on the bed surface level and fine. Due to different varieties, some produce only stems and leaves in the first year, do not bloom or set seed, and only bloom and set seed after the second year, while some varieties bloom and set seed in the same year. People customarily call them hard-stem and soft-stem Astragalus. ② Field management: Keep the soil moist before emergence; after emergence, water less and loosen the soil more to promote downward root growth. When the seedlings are 6—7 cm tall, thin to a plant spacing of 10—13 cm. When the seedlings are 17—20 cm tall, apply topdressing, with 10—15 kg of ammonium sulfate and 25—40 kg of fermented cake fertilizer per mu. When about to bloom, water demand gradually increases, so the number of waterings can be appropriately increased. The seeds mature at Minor Heat, and at this time watering should be reduced or stopped. If there is a lot of rain, drain promptly to prevent root rot. Harvest and processing: In the autumn of the planting year or the autumn of the second year, dig and harvest when the aboveground stems and leaves wither. Carefully dig out the roots, shake off the soil, remove the reed stems, dry in the sun, tie into small bundles, and sell. Generally, the yield of dried product per mu in the same year is 250—300 kg.</p><p>Main diseases and insect pests: Red root disease (also called yellow flower purple root rot) easily occurs in July—August. Insect pests include stem borers and cutworms. Treat the disease accordingly.</p>
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Detailed explanation of seed sowing and seedling raising techniques for goji berry: master the key points to grow strong seedlings
Seedling raising by true seed sowing, that is, sexual propagation. It uses seeds to propagate seedlings. The advantage of this method is that a large number of seedlings can be grown in a short period, meeting the urgent need for planting stock in production, and it is low in cost and easy to master. The disadvantage is that the seedlings produced vary greatly, and the superior traits of the mother tree
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How to transplant Chinese chives? Remember these four key points
Chinese chives have a very strong tillering ability and exhibit root-jumping (that is, as the Chinese chives tiller, they gradually move upward in layers, and the rooting position of the Chinese chives also keeps rising). Continuous growth in this way often leads to a sharp decline in both yield and quality three to four years after transplanting, and growers
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Detailed Explanation of Key Technical Points for High-Yield Raspberry Cultivation and Management
Raspberries have very strong adaptability. In our country, except for the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, they can be planted in most areas. In the north, raspberries can endure low temperatures of -40 to -45°C, and they can be planted anywhere in the south. In subtropical regions certain changes will occur, because raspberry roots do not have natural dormancy; when their symbiotic conditions are met, they will grow year-round without shedding leaves. They can bear fruit twice a year, but the fruit shape is slightly smaller than fruit from the north, while the yield is higher than in the north. There are many raspberry varieties, with more than 400 in the world. In terms of fruit shape, there are red, black, yellow, purple and other colors. Fruit weight is generally 5-10 grams, with the largest reaching 20 grams. Raspberry yield is 1000-1500 kg per 667 sq m.</p><p></p><p>Orchard Establishment and Planting </p><p>Raspberries can be planted in spring or autumn. Spring planting is after the soil thaws and before the seedlings sprout (March-April), while autumn planting is preferably after the seedlings have lignified and before the soil freezes (October-November). For field planting of raspberries, the row spacing is 2.5 m and the plant spacing is 0.8 m, with 2-3 plants per hole, 660-990 plants per 667 sq m. Before planting, soak the seedling roots in water for 12-24 hours to ensure the seedlings have sufficient moisture in their bodies. At planting time, the seedling roots should be 15 cm from the ground, and the area around the seedlings should be 30 cm. When covering with soil, compact the soil, and it is best that the soil does not exceed the seedling soil mark. Water thoroughly once.</p><p>Trellising and Guiding Branches </p><p>When branches grow to 1.5 m, trellising and branch guiding must be carried out. Within the row, set a post every 5-10 m, 1.5 m high, and stretch two wire lines. The upper wire is fixed at the top of the posts, and the lower wire is 1 m above the ground. Guide the branches onto the wire lines in a fan shape and tie them well.</p><p>Pruning </p><p>Pruning is divided into three times. The first pruning is at planting time. After the seedlings survive, excessively dense, thin and weak branches and damaged branches should be cut off flush with the ground. When the new shoots of the year grow to 40-60 cm, for plants with relatively low density, pinch the tips at 10 cm to promote the sprouting of new side branches and increase the number of branches. The second is pruning of basal shoots (that is, the new shoots of the year). It is advisable to leave basal shoots cut back to 1.3-1.5 m; those exceeding 1.5 m should be pruned. For each plant cluster, select and retain 6-8 vigorous basal shoots and cut off the rest. The third pruning is after fruit harvesting is finished, when the fruiting canes should be cut off flush with the ground.</p><p>Fertilizer and Water Management </p><p>Base fertilizer should preferably be applied in early autumn, mainly with decomposed farmyard manure, and an appropriate amount of chemical fertilizer may also be added. Apply the base fertilizer mixed with soil on one side 40-60 cm from the plant. When applying chemical fertilizer, the soil must have sufficient moisture. Apply about 0.5 kg of compound fertilizer on one side 50 cm from the plant. Raspberry is a shallow-rooted plant. When watering during drought, it is enough for soil moisture to reach 40 cm; the principle is that it can be watered in drought and drained in waterlogging. In weak areas, water once with winter protection water before winter. In arid areas, some leaves, chopped straw and the like can be spread around the raspberries, which can prevent water evaporation and also increase soil fertility.</p><p>Intertillage and Weeding </p><p>Raspberries can be intertilled and weeded twice each year. For chemical weeding, acetochlor, glyphosate, simazine, linuron and other chemical herbicides can be used (use according to the instructions). In order to improve land utilization, some low-growing plants, such as beans and potatoes, can be planted between the fruit trees.</p><p>Raspberry fruits can be picked and marketed when they are 90% ripe; for industrial deep processing, they must be harvested only when fully ripe.</p>
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What are the key techniques for high-yield onion cultivation?
1. Raising strong seedlings. Generally, sowing and seedling raising are best done from late September to mid-October. For the seedling bed, choose loose and fertile sandy loam or new land with convenient drainage and irrigation that has not grown onions or garlic. Before sowing, prepare the soil finely, apply enough base fertilizer, and form flat beds for sowing. Before sowing, soak the seeds in warm water for 24 hours, dry them, mix them with dry crushed soil, and sow evenly. Each mu requires 70-75 grams of seed sown in the seedling bed. After sowing, cover the surface with fine soil, then cover with weeds to prevent rain erosion and direct sunlight. After covering with grass, drench with diluted manure water, and scatter insect-prevention chemicals around the bed. Remove the covering weeds after the seedlings emerge. During the seedling period, drench with diluted decomposed manure water once every 5-6 days. After about 40 days of seedling growth, they can be transplanted.
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Methods and Technical Points for Cultivating Strong Wheat Seedlings Before Winter
Only by cultivating strong seedlings before winter can you ensure large ears, many grains, heavy grains, and a high-yield harvest for the next year's wheat. The standard for strong wheat seedlings before winter is: before winter, the main stem grows 7-8 leaves, each plant has 7-8 tillers, and 8-9 secondary roots; for ordinary wheat fields, the number of stems per mu should be
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Methods for Cultivating Strong Seedlings in Coptis chinensis Planting
Coptis chinensis is one of China's precious medicinal herbs. It is a perennial herbaceous crop that grows in high mountains at an altitude of 800-2000 m. The seedling growth period of Coptis chinensis is 1-2 years, and the growth period after transplanting is 4-5 years. After long-term production practice, medicinal herb growers in Emeishan City, Sichuan, have summarized a set of
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Field management key points during Saposhnikovia divaricata cultivation
Saposhnikovia divaricata has strong adaptability and strong drought tolerance; as long as a full stand of seedlings is ensured, management during the growing period is relatively simple. To promote its growth and development, some growth-promoting and growth-controlling measures can be taken. (1) Topdressing and watering In general, when Saposhnikovia divaricata is cultivated artificially in the first year, if sufficient base fertilizer is applied, it rarely
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What are the methods for cultivating strong Ophiopogon japonicus seedlings?
Ophiopogon japonicus (Ophiopogon japonicus), also known as dwarf lilyturf, snakebeard grass, maidong, and cundong, is a perennial evergreen herbaceous plant of the genus Ophiopogon in the family Liliaceae. Its fibrous roots are relatively thick and strong, and the tip or middle of the roots often swells into a spindle-shaped fleshy tuber. The tuberous roots are used as medicine. The following is an introduction
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How to grow strong spring cabbage seedlings? Key points of cold-frame seedling raising techniques
Cabbage (Brassica oleracea L.) is an annual or biennial herbaceous plant of the genus Brassica in the family Brassicaceae, and is one of our important vegetables. Apart from Chinese kale (gai lan), which originated in China, all the varieties of cabbage originated along the coast from the Mediterranean to the North Sea. As early as 4000~4500 years ago, the ancient Romans and ancient
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