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What are the propagation methods for growing Salvia miltiorrhiza (red sage)?
Seed propagation: Broadcast sowing is generally used, and sowing is best done from the year's Grain in Ear to Summer Solstice and from End of Heat to White Dew in the year the seeds are collected. The seedbed should be land with a slightly higher elevation, loose and fertile soil, and convenient watering. For raising seedlings in mountainous areas, it is best to choose a hillside slope at the foot of a mountain facing east or southeast as the seedbed, to reduce sun exposure and help seedling emergence. The seedbed should first be plowed, and decomposed human manure and urine used as base fertilizer. The soil should be broken up fine and made into high beds 1.3-1.66 m wide. Then the seeds are evenly broadcast shallowly on the bed surface; after sowing, press lightly once with the foot so the seeds adhere closely to the surface soil (no need to cover with soil), cover with a thin layer of wheat straw, and sprinkle water frequently to keep it moist. When the seedlings have 3-5 true leaves, thin them out if they are found to be too dense. The thinned seedlings can be temporarily planted elsewhere and cultivated. During this period, pay attention to watering and promptly apply 1-2 topdressings of dilute human manure and urine to promote seedling growth. The suitable time for transplanting is from late October to early November of the same year. Before transplanting, open holes on the prepared bed surface at a spacing of 25 cm × 25 cm, with the hole depth depending on the length of the seedling roots. Plant 1-2 plants per hole, with the planting depth such that the heart bud is slightly exposed; do not plant too deep, and do not let the root crown be exposed above the soil. After planting, cover with soil until the holes are level, press slightly firm, and water promptly to settle the roots. When Salvia miltiorrhiza is transplanted early, it takes root early, and by the time the cold winter arrives it has already survived, and it will green up early the following year; as far as possible, do not delay transplanting until the severe cold season.</p><p></p><p>Root division propagation:</p><p>Carry out from the Beginning of Spring to Awakening of Insects. Select robust new roots about 1 cm in diameter for planting. Before planting, first cut the roots into 5-7 cm long root segments. The planting density is 27 cm between rows and 20 cm between plants. Open furrows on the bed surface, place the root segments upright in the furrows, taking care not to place the upper and lower ends upside down, and after planting cover level with soil. Seedlings generally emerge after Grain Rain. With root division propagation, flowering is later, and it is difficult to harvest seeds in the same year, but the roots grow faster.</p><p>Division propagation:</p><p>From the Beginning of Winter to the Awakening of Insects of the following year, when harvesting home-grown Salvia miltiorrhiza (generally between the Winter Solstice and the Beginning of Spring), select robust, disease-free plants, cut off the thick roots for medicinal use, and use the roots thinner than a cigarette, together with the rhizome head and heart leaves, as planting stock for propagation. Wild Salvia miltiorrhiza can also be dug up and transplanted together with roots and seedlings. Large seedlings can be divided into 2-4 plants according to the natural growth conditions of the buds and roots, and then planted.</p><p>Cuttage:</p><p>Around Qingming, select thick, strong stems, cut them into sections with 2-3 nodes each, cut off part of the leaves, and insert them into the prepared bed, burying 6-10 cm in the soil, leaving the buds slightly exposed above the soil surface, press the soil firm, and water immediately. After that, spray water with a sprayer in the morning and evening to keep the bed surface moist.</p>
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Management Measures and Technical Points for Peach Trees After Fruit Harvest
Most peach tree varieties mature early, and there is a long growth period from fruit harvest to leaf fall. This is precisely the critical period for nutrient accumulation and flower bud differentiation in peach trees, and the quality of management will directly affect the peach trees' overwintering and the growth and fruiting of the following year. Therefore, after fruit harvest, peach trees should adopt
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Detailed Guide to Mock Strawberry Cultivation Techniques: Planting Methods and Management Points
Mock strawberry grows mostly wild on hillsides, in grasslands, along roadsides, by ditches, or among weeds on field ridges; it is distributed throughout the country. The whole plant is used medicinally; it has the effects of clearing heat and detoxifying, promoting blood circulation and dispersing blood stasis, and astringing to stop bleeding, and it can also treat venomous snake bites, and be applied to treat boils and sores, etc.; it is also used to kill flies and maggots.
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A Detailed Guide to Jabuticaba Planting Techniques and Management Methods
Most people are probably quite unfamiliar with jabuticaba. As the name suggests, jabuticaba is actually a "grape" that grows on a tree, also known as the Brazilian grape tree. Its appearance closely resembles that of grapes, and its taste is similar too. Jabuticaba is a fruit rich in
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Detailed Explanation of Gannan Navel Orange Cultivation Techniques, Scientific Cultivation and Management Methods
What I liked to eat most in the past was rock sugar orange, which I thought had the best taste among oranges. Later, I accidentally ate a Gannan navel orange and was attracted by its rich orange aroma and sweet-and-sour taste. Since then, I have especially liked this kind of orange. Today let's talk about Gannan
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Detailed Explanation of Key Techniques for Navel Orange Cultivation and Management
The most attractive thing about navel oranges is still their tangerine-red appearance, which looks extremely enticing. Regularly eating navel oranges not only helps with beauty and anti-aging, but also has the effect of prolonging life. There are now many varieties of navel oranges on the market, and their flavors differ as well. Below, let us learn together
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A Detailed Guide to Fig Planting Techniques and Methods in Pots
Most people have probably eaten figs and know them quite well; the fig has already become a fairly common fruit with particularly high nutritional value. In fact, figs can also be grown in pots, offering ornamental value, and with good care later on they can even flower and bear fruit. If you like
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What Fertilizer Is Best for Navel Oranges? Introduction to Scientific Fertilization Methods
The most attractive thing about navel oranges is their orange-red appearance, which makes them look appetizing at a glance. A glass of orange juice every day can also supplement many of the vitamins the human body needs, making it a beverage people often drink in daily life. If you want to eat delicious oranges, you cannot do without growing
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When is the most suitable time to plant leaf lettuce?
Every vegetable has its own unique growth pattern. Take Chinese cabbage, for example: most of it is planted in autumn and winter and harvested in winter and spring, while water spinach, amaranth and the like are planted in late spring and harvested in summer and autumn. Leaf lettuce is also a kind of vegetable. So what exactly is its growth pattern? ⟦4 <p>Every vegetable has its own unique growth pattern. Take Chinese cabbage, for example: most of it is planted in autumn and winter and harvested in winter and spring, while water spinach, amaranth and the like are planted in late spring and harvested in summer and autumn. Leaf lettuce is also a kind of vegetable. So what exactly is its growth pattern?</p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>Planting time for leaf lettuce</strong></p><p>Leaf lettuce is generally sown in August-September, but with the development of greenhouse technology, it can now be planted all year round.</p><p></p><p><strong>Seedling-raising techniques for leaf lettuce</strong></p><p>1. Seed treatment: To raise leaf lettuce seedlings, the seeds need to be soaked to promote germination. Wrap the seeds in gauze and soak them in cool water for about 1 hour, then take them out and place them at 15-20℃ or in a household refrigerator's cold storage compartment for 2-3 days. Once the seeds show white sprouts, they can be sown.</p><p>2. Seedbed preparation: Choose a seedbed plot where the previous crop was not treated with long-residual herbicides such as imazethapyr or thifensulfuron-methyl, with high, dry terrain and strong water- and fertilizer-retention capacity. Apply plenty of organic fertilizer. For each mu of cultivation field, use 15-20 sq m of seedbed.</p><p>3. Timely sowing: At sowing time, mix an appropriate amount of fine sand with the seeds to separate them, then broadcast them to raise seedlings. Do not sow too densely, to prevent the seedlings from becoming leggy. Cover the seeds with 0.5 cm of medicinal soil mixed with phoxim, and set up a shed for sun protection and rain protection.</p><p>4. Seedling-stage management: When the leaf lettuce seedlings grow two true leaves, divide the seedlings, with a transplanting density of 6×6 cm. The leaf lettuce seedbed should be kept moist, and shade should be provided at noon. At the same time, during the seedling stage, leaf lettuce requires attention to pest and disease control.</p><p><strong></strong></p><p><strong>Field management techniques for leaf lettuce</strong></p><p>Leaf lettuce is generally cultivated in flat beds. Leaf lettuce can be planted out once it has 5-6 true leaves, with a row spacing and plant spacing of about 20 cm. Before planting out, deep-plow and apply sufficient base fertilizer. Generally, apply 3000 kg of decomposed barnyard manure per mu, 80-100 kg of ammonium bicarbonate, with 2 m including the ditch, deep ditches and high beds. Plant out at the 4-5 leaf stage, with strong seedlings, at a row spacing and plant spacing of 10-15 cm, cultivated in flat beds. For spring sowing and open-field transplanting, apply sufficient decomposed barnyard manure, and apply 80 kg of ammonium bicarbonate per mu.</p><p>After planting out, water thoroughly to settle the roots. In case of drought, promote growth with fertilizer and water, and it can be marketed in 25-30 days, with a yield of 1800-2000 kg per mu. Autumn sowing in July-September coincides with the high-temperature and dry season, and there are often rainstorms. After transplanting, water thoroughly to establish the plants, and cover with shade netting for 5-7 days. After the plants are established, if there is cloudy and rainy weather, the shade netting can be removed. Moderate fertilizer and water are conducive to the normal growth of leaf lettuce, and it can be marketed in 20-30 days, with a general yield of 1600-1800 kg per mu. For autumn-winter sowing in October-November, transplant in the open field. If a cold wave hits in December, it needs to be transplanted into a greenhouse, and it can be marketed in 25-30 days, with a yield of about 1500 kg per mu. Before planting out, apply sufficient base fertilizer. For every 667 mz, apply 5000 kg of high-quality barnyard manure, 40 kg of diammonium phosphate, 20 kg of urea, 20 kg of potassium sulfate, or 200—300 kg of plant ash, and make beds 1.5 m including the ditch.</p><p></p><p>When planting out, water well with the planting water. After 1 week, water thoroughly to help the seedlings recover. After recovery, apply a seedling-promoting fertilizer together with watering (15 kg of urea). In the later stage, apply a heavy plant-promoting fertilizer (30 kg of urea). After planting out and recovery, carry out timely intertillage and deep hoeing to help the plants stay compact and promote root development. Throughout the entire growth and development period, keep the field moist and the soil loose. The management method after planting out is basically the same as that for celtuce, and fertilizer and water management must be strengthened. It is necessary both to maintain sufficient moisture and to prevent waterlogging damage caused by excessive moisture, while also doing a good job of pest and disease control.</p><p></p><p><strong>Harvesting and storage of leaf lettuce</strong></p><p>Harvest. After planting out, depending on various conditions, it can be harvested in about 30-50 days, and in winter it takes a little longer. For harvesting, in summer it should be done in the morning, and in winter in a greenhouse it should be done in the evening. A knife can be used to cut the plant close to the ground. Remove yellow leaves and diseased leaves, then tie them into bundles or put them in baskets for sale. If long-distance transport is required, precooling is also necessary, or ice cubes can be placed in the packing boxes (frost damage is likely to occur around the ice cubes).</p><p>Storage The suitable storage temperature for leaf lettuce is 0℃, and the suitable relative humidity is above 95%. For storage or transport, the quality of the leaf lettuce must be high, the leaves should not be too tender, and the moisture content should be low. When harvesting, handle gently, harvest gently and place gently, to avoid mechanical damage.</p><p></p><p>In today's era of highly advanced technology, leaf lettuce can be planted all year round, but like all vegetables, vegetables grown in accordance with the laws of nature always taste better than those grown by breaking the rules. So, if it is for your own consumption, then do the appropriate things in the appropriate season!</p>
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How to Divide a Pothos and Repotting Precautions
Pothos is the most common household potted plant, and pothos is known as the king of toxin absorption, with an excellent effect on absorbing formaldehyde and purifying the air. Many people keep several pots of pothos after renovating a new home to remove formaldehyde. Pothos is especially easy to grow and easily fills its pot, so
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