The Latest Cherry Tree Sapling Planting Techniques and Methods Tutorial
Cherry is native to the Caribbean region of the West Indies in tropical America, and is suitable for growing in tropical and subtropical regions with abundant rainfall, sufficient sunlight and suitable temperatures. It is famous worldwide for being rich in vitamin C, and is internationally recognized as the “king of natural vitamin C” and the “fruit of life”, with extremely high cultivation value. Now let us take a look at cherry tree sapling planting techniques!
Growth Habits of Cherry Trees
Cherry is a fruit tree that loves light, warmth, moisture and fertilizer, and is suitable for growing under climatic conditions with an annual average temperature of 10-12°C, annual precipitation of 600-700mm, and annual sunshine hours of more than 2600-2800h. It can grow well and bear fruit normally in places where the period with a daily average temperature above 10°C lasts 150-200d, and the extreme minimum temperature in winter is not lower than -20°C. If there is frost damage in the local area, the cherry orchard site can be chosen on a northwest slope where the temperature rises slowly in spring and the air circulates well. Considering that the cherry root system is shallow and prone to windthrow, the orchard site should preferably be in a section not subject to wind damage, and the soil should preferably be loose sandy loam with a deep soil layer.
Cherry Tree Sapling Propagation Techniques
1. Seed propagation method: After harvesting the cherries, cut through the skin and flesh to take out the stones, wash off the flesh attached to the outside of the stones with clean water, then place them in a cool place to dry for 1-2 days before sowing. When sowing, sow the stones directly in a shallow pot, and they will germinate about 10-30 days after sowing. When the seedlings grow to 5-250cm, transplant them into soft plastic pots. Cherry seeds germinate easily, but their germination is not uniform, and the seeds produced by some plants often lack viable embryos, with the germination rate often lower than 30%. The seed propagation method reaches fruiting age relatively late, and the quality variation among seedlings is large.
2. Cutting method: During the spring and summer growing period, select semi-mature healthy branches with a diameter of 0.7-30cm, each segment 15-500cm long, with 4-6 leaves attached, and insert them into river sand, vermiculite or peat soil, or a mixture of several of these, all of which are suitable as a nursery bed medium. The cuttings especially need to be kept moist and shaded. After cutting, roots develop in about 1.5-2 months, and transplanting is carried out after the root mass grows vigorously. If the cutting method is managed properly, there will be a 60-90% survival rate. The cutting method is simple and has the highest success rate.
3. Layering method: Select branches more than two years old, make a ring-shaped cut through the bark at the lower part near a node, then place moist soft grass into a transparent plastic bag and wrap the entire wound well, tying both the upper and lower ends. After rooting, cut below the layered part, and pot it to become a new plant. This is usually chosen during the vigorous growth period of the cherry (in late spring and early summer), when rooting is easy. Although rooting is relatively easy, the effect differs greatly among varieties.
4. Grafting method: Cherry grafting uses cherry seedlings, mountain cherry, flowering cherry, etc. as rootstock, and good cherry varieties as scion, and is carried out before germination in spring. It is best to choose a rootstock and scion with the same or similar thickness, and either cleft grafting or approach grafting can be used. Grafting is the most used method in actual production for propagating cherry tree saplings.
Cherry Tree Sapling Pruning Techniques
1. For young trees, remove the overly vigorous upright main branches on the central leader and the overly vigorous water sprouts on the main branches. For the retained main branches and the lateral branches on the main branches, focus on spreading the branches to open the angle and on bud notching. The opening angle of the main branches is preferably 60-70 degrees, and the opening angle of the lateral branches is preferably 70-80 degrees. When spreading the branches, they should be pulled into a straight line, and must not be pulled into a bow shape. Bud notching is generally carried out in early March before the buds sprout, on the main branches, for the purpose of promoting lateral branches.
2. For trees in the initial fruiting stage, 4-7 years old, it is necessary to adjust the tree structure and pay attention to the cultivation of fruiting branch groups on the main branches. First, gradually remove overly low and overly dense main branches, so that the main branches do not affect each other. Second, appropriately retract branches that have no branching to promote branching. Third, retract or shorten overly weak lateral branches to rejuvenate them, and for overly vigorous ones, open the angle to ease the growth vigor and promote flower formation.
3. For trees in the full fruiting stage, adjust the tree structure well and improve the light and air conditions within the canopy. Resolutely remove excess upright branches, overly dense branches, overlapping branches, crossing branches, etc. that sprout within the canopy, and open up the layer spacing so as not to disrupt the tree shape and consume nutrients. For trees that are too tall, promptly drop the top and open the center, using weak branches as the leader to control the canopy height.