How to propagate boxwood? These methods are simple and practical

Boxwood is a common landscaping tree in green areas and along roadsides, with high ornamental value, and some people even grow it specially as bonsai, so how do you propagate boxwood?

1. Seed propagation

(1) Site selection and soil preparation: In early September, choose loose, fertile, well-drained sandy soil as the sowing bed, apply base fertilizer (organic fertilizer), and at the same time mix in insecticides and fungicides, then deep plow and level the soil to make the sowing bed.

(2) Sowing: 50-60 grams per square meter. First mix the seeds with an appropriate amount of sand, then evenly scatter them on the seedbed, cover with 1-1.5 mm of fine soil, and cover with straw curtains to keep moisture.

(3) Post-sowing management techniques: After sowing, the seeds only grow radicles in the same year and do not germinate. To prevent frost damage, before the soil freezes in mid-to-late November, 5-8 cm of soil needs to be placed on top of the straw curtains. In mid-to-late March of the second year, remove the straw curtains and covering soil, then build a plastic arch shed on the seedbed, with the temperature needing to be controlled between 25-30 degrees. After about 20 days, the embryos grow out of the soil surface. After that, the temperature inside the shed must be kept between 20-25°C, and appropriate watering is needed. In late April, when the temperature is stable, the plastic arch shed can be removed. During the seedling stage, weeding and loosening the soil are needed, with timely irrigation and topdressing, and timely prevention and control of pests and diseases as well.

2. Cutting propagation

(1) Site selection and soil preparation: Choose a plot with high terrain, deep soil layer, loose soil, and good drainage and irrigation. After clearing grass roots and stones, shape the soil into raised beds about 1-1.2 m high, then apply 5% mancozeb at 1500 times plus 10% imidacloprid at 1000 times as a drench to eliminate underground pests and harmful pathogens. After leveling the seedbed, pat it flat with a spade, pour 10% decomposed dilute human manure, then spread a layer of yellow mud or sieved burnt mud ash on the bed surface, about 5 cm thick.

(2) Cuttings: Cutting propagation can be carried out at any time, but it is best to use tender branches grown in the current year as cuttings in summer. Select excellent current-year woody or semi-woody branches for the cuttings. After collection, cut the cuttings in a cool, sheltered place. When cutting, if small branches have already grown from the internodes, cut 0.5 cm above and below each node, then split the stem node into two halves according to where the small branches are attached, dividing it into two branches for cutting. If the branch has not grown small branches, leave 2 nodes, cut the upper end into a flat cut 1 cm above the bud, and cut the lower end into a horse-ear shape or flat cut 0.5 cm from the bud.

(3) Cutting method: It should not be too deep. For large branches, insert the next stem node 1 cm into the soil. When small branches are divided and cut, with the flat cut facing downward, the depth should be such that the mother plant enters the soil by 1 cm. The cuttings should be at an angle of about 45 degrees to the ground. Shallow and slanted insertion is beneficial for the cuttings to root and survive earlier. After cutting, compact the soil around the cuttings, and then water thoroughly once so that the lower part of the cuttings fits closely with the soil. The row spacing for cuttings is generally 12-15 cm, and the plant spacing is 6-8 cm. When cutting, do not leave too many leaves on the cuttings, but do not cut them all off either. The lower leaves can all be cut off together with the petioles, and 2 leaves can be kept on the upper part, then according to leaf size, cut each leaf by another 1/2 to 2/3 to reduce excessive consumption of water and nutrients.

(4) Post-cutting management: After cutting, build a shed for shade to reduce transpiration and avoid direct sunlight on the seedbed. When cutting in early spring or late autumn, plastic film also needs to be added to prevent winter damage. After cutting, also pay attention to frequent watering to keep the seedbed soil moist, with it being best that the surface soil of the seedbed does not turn white. Topdressing can be done together with watering, and foliar spraying with potassium dihydrogen phosphate plus urea can also be used. Weeding work should be done carefully, and the cuttings must not be knocked against.

In general, boxwood has two propagation methods: sowing and cutting, among which sowing is mostly carried out in September, while cutting can be done at any time.