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A Detailed Guide to Common Pests and Diseases of Plum Trees and Their Control Methods
After the first pinching of the plum tree, pinch the new secondary shoots when they reach 20 cm, and pinch the developing branches when they reach 60-80 cm. If there are many branches, some can be thinned out; if the branches are not too dense, thin as little as possible and control more. Before mid-July, the weeds in the orchard must be completely removed
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Plum tree training and pruning methods and key technical points
① Training. The tree form can be natural open-center, multi-main-branch natural form, or Y-shape. For young trees, the trunk height is set at 30-50 cm. After sprouting, keep 5-6 buds as main branches; when the main branches are 50-60 cm long, leave 40 cm and pinch off the tips. In August, keep 2-3 permanent main branches, and pull the extra 2-3 main branches apart to make them droop, so they can bloom and bear fruit the following year. Later, as appropriate, train them into medium-to-large fruiting branch groups.
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How to Control the Alternate Bearing of Plum Trees? Practical Cultivation and Management Methods
1. Reasonable pruning to regulate tree vigor. On-year trees should be pruned early (before the onset of winter) and heavily. Remove dead branches, residual branches, slender branches, scorched-tip branches, diseased and pest-infested branches, and excessively dense, crossing branches. Do more heading back to stimulate shoot growth; for vigorous branches and competing branches, cut back hard, removing 2/3 to 3/4 of the branch or leaving only 3 to 5 buds. Thin flower buds early, prune away excess flowering branches, and reduce the fruit load. Off-year trees should be pruned late (around the beginning of spring), keeping flowering branches and thinning out non-flowering vegetative branches. Leave branches unpruned or bend them down to moderate tree vigor, retain as many flowers and fruits as possible, and increase the fruit set.
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Scientific Fertilization Methods and Technical Points for Plum Cultivation
I. Fertilizer Types 1. Base fertilizer: Base fertilizer is a fertilizer that can supply plum trees with various nutrients over a relatively long period. It is generally dominated by slow-release farmyard manure, such as compost, barnyard manure, crop straw, green manure, fallen leaves, etc. An appropriate amount of quick-acting nitrogen fertilizer can be added to the base fertilizer to meet the large amount of nitrogen needed by plum trees during early spring germination and flowering.
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How to prevent and control peach bacterial shot hole? A detailed guide to peach tree disease prevention and control methods
Peach bacterial shot hole is a widely distributed disease with a high incidence rate. Bacterial shot hole occurs in all peach-producing areas nationwide, especially in coastal and lakeside areas, in orchards with poor drainage, and in rainy years, where it often breaks out severely. If not controlled in time, it easily causes
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Control Methods for Yellowing Leaves of Winter Jujube Trees
Yellowing leaves of winter jujube trees are mainly caused by weakened tree vigor, and the causes of leaf yellowing are many-sided. First, diseases such as bacterial scab, jujube rust, and dieback cause early defoliation, resulting in insufficient stored nutrients in the tree and weakened tree vigor, which leads to
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Experiences and Methods for Autumn Cultivation of Jujube Trees
1. Planting time: The earlier the autumn planting, the higher the survival rate. Mid-October to early November is preferable. 2. Digging the hole: Dig a planting hole 60 cm long, 60 cm wide and 60 cm deep, apply sufficient base fertilizer, fill with soil and water, and wait to plant. If the soil moisture is good, you can plant as you dig the hole, and water after planting. 3
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Spring Pruning Methods and Technical Key Points for Densely Planted Jujube Trees
The small canopy open-center layered form has a trunk height of 80-90 cm. Suppress the secondary branches on the trunk and promote the development of 3-4 jujube heads (main shoots), so that the topmost jujube head extends upward to become the trunk extension branch, and the 2-3 jujube heads below are trained as main branches. In the second year, cut back the trunk branch leaving about 60 cm, and remove the
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Methods for Preventing and Controlling Pests and Diseases of Winter Jujube Trees in Autumn and Winter, and Key Technical Points
After the beginning of autumn, winter jujube trees gradually enter the dormant period, and their tolerance to chemicals is relatively high. As temperatures drop, pests and diseases enter bark cracks, scars, branch forks, fallen leaves, fallen fruit, mummified fruit or the soil, where they lurk to overwinter. Therefore, it is necessary to seize the favorable opportunity for pest and disease control in autumn and winter,
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Control Methods for Major Pests and Diseases in Jujube Cultivation
I. Major Diseases 1. Jujube rust. This disease mainly damages leaves, and sometimes also infects fruit. On the back of affected leaves, scattered light green spots appear, gradually turning pale grayish brown, and finally the lesions turn yellowish brown and produce raised summer spore piles. On the front of the leaf, opposite the summer spore piles
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