Which parts does tomato Fusarium wilt mainly damage? Key points of control techniques

During tomato cultivation, if growth goes smoothly, the fruit is generally brightly colored and relatively large. However, in actual cultivation, diseases often occur for various reasons, especially tomato Fusarium wilt, which is very common. So which parts does tomato Fusarium wilt mainly damage? Attached are the key points of control techniques.

1. Which parts does tomato Fusarium wilt mainly damage?

Tomato Fusarium wilt mainly damages the vascular bundles of the stem, and the disease begins during the flowering or fruiting stage of the crop. At the early stage of the disease, the lower leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow and the yellowing spreads upward. The leaves on the middle and lower parts of the plant wilt and turn brown at noon, then recover in the morning and evening. As the disease develops, more leaves on the middle and upper parts of the plant begin to wilt, but they do not fall off. Finally, the leaves of the whole plant wilt and turn yellow, and the entire plant dies. The symptoms sometimes appear only on one side of the stem, or one side of a leaf turns yellow while the other side remains normal. When the stem, petiole and fruit stalk are cut open, the vascular bundles can be seen to be brown. In a humid environment, pink mold is produced at the base of the stem of diseased plants. Diseased plants take 15-30 days to die, and no milky white mucus flows out, which distinguishes it from bacterial wilt.

2. Key points of control techniques for tomato Fusarium wilt

1. Select disease-resistant varieties, and use disease-free, coated seeds. If the seeds are not coated, they must be sterilized with a seed dressing agent or seed soaking agent.

2. The nutrient soil for raising seedlings should be sterile soil, and it should be sun-dried for more than three weeks before use.

3. Practice crop rotation. In heavily diseased fields, carry out a 3-5 year rotation with cruciferous, cucurbit and onion and garlic vegetables. If cucumbers are to be planted, they must be grafted onto black-seeded pumpkin.

4. Before transplanting or after harvest, clear weeds in the field and around it, and burn them in a centralized manner or compost them; deep plow the soil to destroy stubble and sun-dry the soil to promote the decomposition of diseased plant residues and reduce sources of disease and insects. For seedling raising and transplanting, cover with medicated soil after sowing, and spray an insecticidal and sterilizing agent once before transplanting. This is the key to disease prevention.

5. Choose fields with convenient irrigation and drainage, dig drainage ditches well, lower the groundwater level, and ensure there is no standing water after rain stops; clean the ditch system promptly after heavy rain to prevent moisture retention and reduce field humidity. This is an important measure for disease prevention.

6. For fields with many soil-borne pathogens or severe underground pests, broadcast or trench-apply sterilizing and insecticidal medicated soil before sowing. Apply compost fermented with effective microorganisms or thoroughly decomposed organic fertilizer. Do not use pathogen-carrying fertilizer, and the organic fertilizer applied must not contain diseased residues of crops of the same family.

Deep plow and sun-dry the soil, and increase the application of organic fertilizer and phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to promote robust crop growth and improve crop disease resistance.

7. Control pests in time to reduce plant wounds and reduce the routes of pathogen spread; when disease occurs, promptly remove diseased leaves and diseased plants, take them out of the field and burn them, and apply medicine or quicklime to the diseased planting holes.

8. Grafting to prevent disease: use wild water eggplant, poisonous eggplant or red eggplant as rootstock, and cultivated eggplant as scion, and adopt the cleft grafting method. This is indeed effective.