Different Growth Stages of Plants Require Very Different Practical Flower-Growing Techniques
Plants have different flower-growing techniques at different stages, so dear readers, treat them differently too! 1. Seedling stage: For all kinds of plants started from seed, whether flowers or vegetables, this refers to the initial stage of growth, from breaking through the soil to before 3~4 true leaves...

Plants have different flower-growing techniques at different stages, so dear readers, treat them differently too!
1. Seedling stage
For all kinds of plants started from seed, whether flowers or vegetables, this refers to the initial stage of growth, from breaking through the soil to before 3~4 true leaves.
At this stage, the roots are shallow and the seedlings are small. For those planted in garden soil, basically no additional fertilizer is needed; but for those planted in a low-fertilizer substrate, when the temperature is suitable, additional fertilizer may be applied as appropriate, taking care that the amount is less than during the vigorous growth stage.
As for watering, before the cotyledons unfold, the soil should be kept moist; after the cotyledons unfold, you can switch to the method of watering thoroughly whenever the surface soil looks dry.
For perennial plants, this care method applies to the early sprouting stage of bulbous plants and the early sprouting stage of various woody plants (especially those with a deciduous dormancy habit; when they begin to sprout again, some species will do so at the same time as the flower bud stage, or only after flowering, and usually the duration is very short).
2. Vigorous growth stage
At this stage, the plant grows rapidly, and it is one of the periods when water and fertilizer are needed. The watering method is also to water thoroughly whenever the surface soil looks dry; the only thing you can control is the frequency. Whether in pots or in the ground, as long as the temperature is suitable, fertilizer can be
applied as appropriate. After all, there is an important principle for additional fertilizing: do not fertilize until new leaves (buds) appear. For plants grown mainly for foliage, the fertilizer should contain appropriately more nitrogen; for plants grown mainly for flowers and fruit, fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium can be added as appropriate.
Different types of plants have different times when the vigorous growth stage appears. Annual plants: it appears in the early growth period, that is, the time from the seedling stage to before flower bud formation.
Plants grown mainly for foliage: the suitable-temperature spring and autumn seasons are the vigorous growth stages. Woody plants: it mainly depends on the species; some have their vigorous growth stage at the same time as the young fruit swelling and growing period, especially fruit trees like apples, peaches, and pears.
3. Flower bud stage and fruiting stage
This period is also when plants need water and fertilizer the most. Unlike simple leaf growth, the growth of flower buds and fruit consumes nutrients; the growth of leaves accumulates nutrients.
But different types of plants also differ in the stage when this appears. For annual and biennial plants with short growth periods, it appears in the middle and late stages of plant growth, such as sunflowers, various beans, and rapeseed (considering the time of harvesting the seeds), etc. For perennials, the differences are even greater: some appear before leaf growth, such as various Lycoris species and woody plants that bloom in early spring, especially those that flower before leafing out, such as Forsythia, winter jasmine, and magnolia; some are almost synchronized with the vigorous growth stage (when flower buds form and bloom, the branches and leaves also grow vigorously), such as pomegranate, crape myrtle, and Jasminum floridum.
The watering method is the same as in the vigorous growth stage: water thoroughly whenever the surface soil looks dry, and adjust the frequency appropriately according to the plant's growth and temperature changes. But for plants grown mainly for foliage, since the ornamental effect of flowers and fruit is inferior to that of the leaves, and sometimes in order to make the leaves grow better, you may instead need to consider removing the flowers and fruit (such as pennywort and Peperomia), to avoid excessive nutrient consumption. Therefore, for such plants, this stage is basically not applicable.
4. Dormancy stage
This stage is the period when plants rest and recuperate. Growth almost completely stops (applicable to most plants, especially some evergreen plants) and leaf drop may even occur (for some woody plants with a habit of dropping leaves in winter); the aboveground plant parts all wither, leaving only the perennial root or bulb state (for some perennial herbaceous plants), and the demand for water and fertilizer is very low.
The general care point is to stop fertilizer, but not stop water. That means: during dormancy, there is no need to fertilize; but watering is still the same as usual, watering thoroughly whenever the surface soil looks dry, only much less frequent than during the usual vigorous growth period, as well as during flower bud formation, flowering, and fruit growth; for example, the same plant, during dormancy, is watered about once every 7~14 days or even longer; but during the usual vigorous growth period, it is watered about once every 4~7 days or even shorter.
5. Recovery stage after transplanting
This is a special stage, occurring when plants have been transplanted or newly bought and their growing environment has changed greatly. Its care method has nothing to do with what stage the plant is in. During the recovery period, the care method is quite special; the care method for this period can completely draw on the care used during dormancy, that is, stop fertilizer but not water, water as usual, and water thoroughly whenever the surface soil looks dry; because at this stage the root system has not yet grown well and is sensitive to fertilizer, there is no need to consider additional fertilizing.
As for how long the recovery takes before the plant resumes growth, it all depends on how it performs.
If, when transplanted, few roots are damaged, the plant is herbaceous, and the seedling is small, then the recovery period will be relatively shorter; if, when transplanted, it is bare-rooted or even has rather serious root damage, is woody, and the seedling is large, then the recovery period will be relatively longer.
During the recovery period, no matter what habit the plant has, generally speaking, it is recommended to place it in diffused light and a ventilated place, temporarily avoiding sun exposure, and after it resumes growth later, care for them according to their own habits (sun-loving ones must be given sunlight; shade-loving ones continue to be placed in diffused light and a ventilated place); for a few very tough plants, such as moss rose and inch plant, types that root easily even from cuttings, during the recovery stage, appropriate sun exposure will not affect their survival, and management of such plants is even easier.
6. Flowering stage
It is also a special period, and different types of plants have different requirements.
For those that bloom seasonally and whose total flowering period is very short, such as apple, pear, and apricot, during full bloom, since flowers are quite sensitive to fertilizer, it is not recommended to fertilize when they are blooming heavily.
There are also plants that bloom continuously all year round and have a very long flowering period, such as petunia, dianthus, geranium, and moss rose. During heavy flowering, when the temperature is suitable, fertilizer can be applied as appropriate (fertilizer with more phosphorus and potassium).
As for the watering method, it is likewise to water thoroughly whenever the surface soil looks dry. This method is basically universal and applies to almost all plants.
A few additional points
1. Plant dormancy is affected by multiple conditions together. Besides low temperatures in winter, it is also related to short-day conditions; in summer, when the weather is too hot and too dry, it can also cause plant dormancy.
This depends not only on habit, but other conditions must also be considered together; after all, plant dormancy is its way of resisting an adverse environment.
2. Repotting is major surgery, and how to do it also depends on the conditions. Generally speaking, choosing to do it during the dormancy period and early growth period has the least effect on the plant, or even a negligible one; but if it is done during the recovery period, vigorous growth period, flower bud stage, flowering stage, and fruit growth stage, then there will be adverse effects, ranging from delaying growth to abnormal flower and fruit drop in serious cases; apart from some plants that go dormant in summer, for most plants, midsummer is the least suitable time for repotting, especially during high temperatures. In short, no matter what, repotting should be done more cautiously, and the timing should be chosen correctly before considering it.
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