What to Do About Black Rot and Root Rot in Cuttings? This One Trick Makes White Roots Grow Like Crazy

Some flower lovers say that if you grow flowers without taking cuttings, you miss out on a lot of the fun, and Huahua couldn't agree more. Taking cuttings is a hugely rewarding thing to do - watching a little stem sprout white roots like crazy and burst into a full pot is enough to make you ecstatic! Today, Huahua has prepared a few foolproof cutting methods with a 100% survival rate for you, so come and take a look!

Take pothos cuttings this way, and if they don't live, come find me!

Today Huahua is going to teach you a super, super, super simple pothos cutting method! All you need is a piece of stem! The pothos Huahua grows was propagated from cuttings, and the stems were picked up for free while browsing the flower market - not a single cent spent. Come and take a look!

1. Cut off all the leaves, cut the stem into small sections

When Huahua found the pothos stems, the leaves were a bit wilted, but the stems were still bright green, so Huahua simply cut off all the leaves and then cut the stems into sections, each 3-4 cm long with at least 1 node.

2. Prepare the cutting soil

Pothos likes soft, clean soil. Huahua suggests sun-sterilizing river sand and leaf mold first, then mixing them together. You can also add some vermiculite to make the soil loose and airy, which helps pothos root even better.

3. Let the stems lie on the soil

After cutting the stems, let the wounds dry in a cool, ventilated spot for a while, then lay them horizontally on the surface of the potting soil. If there are aerial roots at the nodes, make sure the aerial roots touch the soil.

4. Water thoroughly once

After laying out the stems, water once, and water thoroughly - stop watering once you see water flowing out of the drainage holes at the bottom of the pot.

5. Cover with clear plastic film to keep warm and moist

Right now some places in the north may still be a bit cold, so cover the pot surface with a layer of clear plastic film, tie it around the rim of the pot with string, and poke 2 small holes in the film for ventilation. Move it to a spot indoors with plenty of light.

6. Roots in about 15 days

While waiting for roots and shoots to grow, keep an eye on whether the soil has dried out and water promptly to keep the soil moist, but don't water too much, or you'll end up with a rotten pot and regret it. Generally, in about 15-30 days, fresh green glossy new leaves will appear, and the roots will already be thick and white.

7. Transplant into a pot

Wait until the new leaves have grown and the number of leaves reaches 3-5. By then the roots will also have grown fairly sturdy, so you can dig them out and pot them up. To reduce root damage, transplant them with the soil attached.

Take gardenia cuttings this way, and they'll live 100%!

Spring is here, and flower lovers who grow gardenias are surely happy - not only can they look forward to enjoying the blooms, but they can also take cuttings and turn 1 pot into 10. Gardenia cuttings hard to root? Try the amphibious cutting method right away, and they'll absolutely root like crazy! Hard to kill even if you tried!

1. Cut off gardenia stems

Try not to choose stems that are too tender; 1-2 year old woody stems are easier to keep alive. Cut the stems diagonally at a 45 degree angle into sections, each 10 cm long, and leave them in a ventilated spot for 1-2 hours to let the wounds dry and heal.

2. Plug the drainage holes of the flower pot

Light a candle, hold it upside down by hand, and let the melted wax drip onto the drainage holes. Drip for a while to seal the drainage holes. Once you think it's completely sealed, you can pour in water to check for leaks - it absolutely must not leak! Then pour the water out.

3. Pour soil into the pot to 3/5 full

Dig up some garden soil from the green belt in your neighborhood, put it in the sun to sterilize, then put it into the flower pot. Garden soil should make up 3/5 of the pot.

4. Then spread a layer of river sand

First rinse the river sand clean with water, then spread it flat in the sun to sterilize, then pour it into the flower pot. River sand should make up 1/5 of the pot, and there's no need to mix it with the garden soil.

5. Pour clean water into the pot

Pour clean water into the flower pot, preferably slowly along the rim of the pot, letting the water soak through the soil. Stop pouring once the water level is about 1 cm above the surface of the river sand.

6. Insert the stems into the soil

Once the wounds on the stems have dried, you can insert them into the pot. Don't insert them too deep - just let the stems stand steadily upright. 3-4 stems per flower pot is enough; too dense is not good for later growth. If the drainage holes of the flower pot can't be sealed tightly, a plastic bottle works too.

7. Change the water every week

Move the flower pot to a spot with indirect light, add clean water promptly, and keep the water level always 1 cm above the soil. Every 7 days, pour the water out and replace it with fresh water.

8. Roots in about 15-20 days

After 15-20 days, the gardenia will have rooted. If you used a flower pot, just poke the drainage holes open from the bottom inward to let the water drain out, and put it in a well-ventilated spot. Water again once the soil dries out. No more worrying about not being able to keep it alive!

Take rose cuttings this way, and they'll root at incredible speed!

Some flower lovers like taking cuttings, but lose battle after battle - 9 out of 10 times they get black rot, which is enough to make you question life itself. How do you get a high survival rate with rose cuttings? Come and learn the master's vermiculite tray method - not only does it prevent black rot, it also makes roots grow like crazy, 100% breaking the curse that "cuttings are doomed to die"!

1. Post-bloom stems are easier to keep alive

To improve the survival rate, try to choose stems after they have bloomed, because at this point the stems are relatively rich in nutrients.

2. Cut the stems

Wipe the scissors with alcohol to sterilize them, cut off 1-year-old sturdy post-bloom rose stems, and cut off the section that had the flower; the cut should be flat. Keep the 2 lower nodes, and make the cut that goes into the soil a 45 degree diagonal cut.

3. Soak in carbendazim

Put the cut stems into carbendazim to soak, which sterilizes and disinfects them. After 20 minutes, take them out and let them dry in a ventilated spot. Flower lovers whose cuttings always get black rot must not forget this step.

4. Dip in rooting powder

Dip the bottom cut of the rose stem in a bit of rooting powder, or soak it in white sugar water diluted 10 times, to speed up rooting.

5. Choose the cutting soil

First put vermiculite or river sand in the sun to sterilize, then pour it into a clear plastic bottle. Poke a few holes in the bottom of the bottle for drainage and ventilation.

6. Put the plastic bottle on a tray

Find a tray, or a water basin will do, fill it with water, with the water 3-5 cm deep, and place the plastic bottle full of soil on it, letting the soil absorb water and become moist.

7. Insert the stems into the soil

First poke a few holes in the soil, then bury the rose stems. Put them in indirect light - they must not be in direct sunlight, or they'll wilt from the sun. Normally you don't need to water the soil; when you see the water in the tray is gone, add more.

8. Roots after 15-20 days

After about 15-20 days, you'll be able to see white roots through the clear plastic bottle, and tender green leaves will also grow. Let the roots keep growing for a few more days, then cut the plastic bottle open, take the stems out with the soil, and transplant them into a new flower pot!

Taking cuttings is a lot of fun,

don't miss out on it again this spring!

Even if you get black rot or rotten stems, don't lose heart,

try a few more times and you'll succeed!

If you think Huahua's super cutting methods are useful,

then share them with others!