Don't Throw Away Spent Phalaenopsis Orchids - With Simple Care, They'll Bloom Like Crazy Again Next Year
The Phalaenopsis orchid I bought a while ago was blooming like nobody's business, but before long, the petals drooped and fell off, leaving only bare stems poking out of the pot. Many people want to just throw them away at this point - don't! Take my advice: a spent Phalaenopsis orchid is not a"one-time flower" at all. With just a little care, it will bloom again next year, and may even bloom even more vigorously!
First, the most critical step - cutting the flower spike. Don't just cut blindly; cut it wrong and you may have no flowers to enjoy next year. First check the condition of the flower spike. If the base of the spike is still green, not yellowed or withered, count down from the lowest flower and cut at the position of the 2-3rd node, about 10-15 cm from the potting soil. If the flower spike is already half yellowed, then just cut it aggressively, cutting it off 2-3 cm from the potting soil, leaving only a small stub of stem. When cutting, remember to use sterilized scissors, for example wiped with alcohol, otherwise it is prone to infection by pathogens - don't be lazy about this!
After cutting the flower spike, next you need to give the Phalaenopsis orchid a"tonic." Blooming consumed a lot of its nutrients, so not fertilizing is definitely not an option, but you can't fertilize carelessly either. At this time you need to choose the right fertilizer; don't use strong fertilizer or raw fertilizer, as they easily burn the roots. If you really don't have a specialized fertilizer at home, you can also sprinkle some slow-release fertilizer on the surface of the potting soil and let it slowly release nutrients - easy and safe.
Then there's the issue of watering. Many people kill their Phalaenopsis orchids by watering, and after blooming ends, watering needs even more attention. The roots of Phalaenopsis orchids are aerial roots and fear waterlogging; once waterlogged, the roots rot. Before watering, check the potting soil. If the sphagnum moss or bark on the surface is dry and feels unmoist when pinched, you can water. When watering, don't pour directly into the leaf center; water slowly along the edge of the pot so the sphagnum moss or bark absorbs it fully, and pour off excess water promptly - don't let the pot sit in water. In addition, air humidity is also very important. If your home is dry, frequently use a spray bottle to mist the surroundings, but don't spray into the flower petals or leaf centers, otherwise they easily rot.
Finally, let's talk about the potting soil. If the potting soil has been used for one or two years and the sphagnum moss or bark has become compacted or moldy, take the opportunity after the flowers fade to repot. When repotting, don't break up all the roots; gently remove the old potting soil, cut off rotten roots and hollow roots, then replant with new sphagnum moss or bark. Don't plant too deep - let some aerial roots remain exposed so the root system can breathe smoothly.
"little butterflies," you'll know your earlier efforts were not wasted!