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After upgrading the cup of young Phalaenopsis seedlings, learn step by step how to grow strong seedlings, identify roots, and care for them all in one go

Flower Cultivation By Grace Miller 0 views
When growing young Phalaenopsis seedlings, many flower enthusiasts always think "young seedlings don't need an urgent cup change," and end up stifling the seedlings! Just like this 1.7-inch tissue-cultured seedling at the base, after only 4 months of growing, the roots are already densely emerging and look about to drill out from the bottom of the cup - at this point, it must be upgraded in time, switched to a 2.5-inch cup, to give the young seedling enough

When growing young Phalaenopsis (moth orchid) seedlings, many growers always think“seedlings do not need an urgent cup change”—at this point you must upgrade the cup in time, switching to a 2.5-inch cup to give the seedling ample room to grow, so that it can later become a strong plant and bloom early!

Not changing the cup for seedlings=stunting them!

1. How to judge when to change the cup?

When changing the cup for Phalaenopsis seedlings, the core is to“look at the condition”rather than“look at the time” blind operation will instead harm the seedlings.

1. Best timing and hardware requirements: for cup changes, prefer spring and autumn, when the temperature is mild and seedlings recover quickly. At the same time, two conditions must be met: the roots should have3-5healthy ones, white and plump, with no rotten or blackened roots; and the leaves should be at least2-31.7inches to2.5inches); never skip a size and use a large cup, otherwise water easily accumulates and smothers the roots.

2. The harm of not changing the cup: seedlings grow fast, and the original cup soon becomes“not big enough”“root-bound coils”

2. How to change the cup? (Taking1.7inches to2.5inches as an example)

The key to changing the cup is“gentle”and“loose”

1. Prepare materials: in advance, have ready a clean2.5-inch transparent plastic cup (convenient for observing the roots, with drainage holes at the bottom), and new sphagnum moss that has been soaked soft and squeezed dry (squeeze until it no longer drips, just moist when pinched by hand).

2. Wrap the roots and set them in the cup: gently take the seedling out of the original cup, use new sphagnum moss to tenderly wrap the roots in a single layer and enclose them snugly (do not wrap too tightly, to prevent crushing the fine roots); place the seedling with its moss wrapping into the new cup, adjust the height so the leaf base is level with the cup rim, then stuff sphagnum moss from the bottom of the cup upward into the gaps, press lightly, and let the seedling stand firm with its roots spread out.

3. Aftercare tips following the cup change

Aftercare following the cup change is the key to growing strong seedlings:

Temperature: keep it at18-28℃“comfort zone” below15℃will cause the seedlings to stop growing, so in autumn and winter keep them away from cold drafts.

Light: place in a spot with diffused light (such as the east side of a balcony, behind a gauze curtain); strictly avoid direct sun exposure to prevent scorching the leaves.

Watering: after the cup change,1week1week after the cup change, observe the sphagnum moss and water only when the surface turns white and feels on the dry side; water slowly along the cup wall until water flows out of the drainage holes.

Fertilizing:1month after the cup change, once the seedling has put out new roots and its leaves have spread, apply a diluted fertilizer made specially for Phalaenopsis, once a month, to avoid burning the roots.

Do these things well, and the Phalaenopsis seedlings will grow quickly: the roots will thicken and lengthen, the leaves will spread out in deep green, and the plant shape will become full, accumulating nutrients for the next cup change and for blooming. Usually after about a year and a half of growing, you will see the seedlings send up flower spikes and open beautiful flowers!


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