The right way to repot, water and fertilize Phalaenopsis in autumn

After raising a Phalaenopsis for more than half a year, the potting medium seems a bit compacted, and you want to repot it but are afraid of killing it; you are also unsure about watering and fertilizing, afraid of root rot if you give too much and afraid it won't bloom if you give too little. In fact, autumn is exactly the"critical period" for Phalaenopsis. If you find the right methods for repotting, watering and fertilizing, you will see a pot full of flowers by the end of the year.

You can absolutely repot a Phalaenopsis in autumn, and it is actually a good time! The roots of Phalaenopsis are especially delicate. The growing medium used (generally sphagnum moss or bark) will compact and grow mold after long use, and its water retention and air permeability get worse, so the roots easily suffocate. In autumn the temperature is mostly15-25°C, neither cold nor hot, so after repotting it recovers quickly and it does not delay the later growth of flower spikes.

However, repotting has its rules. First you must check the timing: if your Phalaenopsis has already produced flower spikes, do not repot it, because repotting can easily make the flower spikes wilt; if it has not grown flower spikes, choose a sunny morning to repot. Second, the growing medium must be chosen correctly. Do not use ordinary soil! It is best to use new sphagnum moss or decomposed pine bark, soaked wet and squeezed dry before use, so the roots can"breathe." When repotting, gently peel off the old medium, cut away rotten roots and hollow roots cleanly, coat the wounds with carbendazim, let them dry for half an hour before potting, and do not choose too large a pot; one size larger than the root mass is enough, otherwise the medium easily holds standing water.

So how should you water a Phalaenopsis in autumn? This step is the most prone to problems. Phalaenopsis is not a"heavy-water flower," but in autumn it also must not be left dry; the key is to check whether the medium is dry or wet. If it is grown in sphagnum moss, pinch the moss; when it feels slightly dry and no longer sticky to the touch, water it. If it is grown in bark, it is even simpler: when the bark surface turns white, you can water.

When watering, do not pour water directly into the leaf center! Standing water in the leaf center easily causes crown rot. It is best to water slowly along the edge of the pot, or put the flowerpot in shallow water and let the medium absorb its fill of water by itself, then take it out after about10minutes and let it drain. Also pay attention to water temperature; do not water with cold water just drawn from the tap. Let it stand until it is close to room temperature before use, otherwise the roots will be shocked. Generally, if the indoor air is dry, water about every10days; if it is rainy and the air is humid, watering once every half a month is enough.

Finally there is autumn fertilizing. If you want the Phalaenopsis to bloom by the end of the year, this step cannot be skipped, but you must"apply thin fertilizer frequently." Do not fertilize a Phalaenopsis that has just been repotted; wait until it has recovered for half a month and new roots begin to emerge before feeding it. Choose a fertilizer specially made for Phalaenopsis, or a diluted phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Do not use nitrogen fertilizers such as urea, which easily lead to only leaves growing and no flowers.

The dilution ratio must be sufficient. Halve the ratio stated in the instructions; for example, if the instructions say1:1000, mix it at1:2000, water it once every20days, pour it into the medium, and do not let it touch the leaves. If the Phalaenopsis has already grown flower spikes, do not fertilize it, otherwise the flower spikes easily wither early; just replenish fertilizer after the flowers finish blooming.

Growing Phalaenopsis in autumn is not that difficult. Remember"check the timing for repotting, check the medium for watering, check the condition for fertilizing." Do not worry needlessly, and it will naturally grow vigorously. If your Phalaenopsis is still showing no movement now, hurry and check whether the medium needs replacing or whether you have watered too much. After adjusting, it may produce flower spikes in a while, and by the end of the year you will be able to enjoy a beautiful Phalaenopsis!