Reasons and Solutions for Phalaenopsis Leaves Turning to Water and Falling Off
When growing Phalaenopsis orchids, the worst thing you can encounter is leaves turning to mush--leaves that were once plump suddenly turn soft, yellow, and rot at the slightest touch. If you do not pay attention, the pathogens will spread, and the whole plant may even wither away! Don't panic -- as long as you act in time, there is a good chance you can save it~
Emergency treatment: stop the damage first! Prevent the pathogens from spreading
1.Promptly remove the diseased leaves
When you find leaves that have turned to mush, gone soft and collapsed, or rot at the slightest touch, immediately use sterilized scissors (dipped in alcohol or scalded with boiling water) to cut off all the diseased leaves, including the membranous"leaf sheath"that wraps the rhizome at the base of the leaf must also be thoroughly removed, to avoid residual sap from the diseased leaf infecting healthy parts.
After cutting, check the rhizome. If there are soft, mushy, or blackened parts, cut them away completely as well, until healthy green tissue is exposed.
2.Disinfect and sterilize strictly
Repeatedly wipe the wounds after pruning with alcohol pads, or directly spray fungicides such as carbendazim or hymexazol (mix at the highest concentration limit stated in the instructions -- don't be soft-hearted!), making sure both the wounds and the surrounding stems are covered.
After that, repeat the disinfection every7days1time, for2-3times in a row, to completely kill off any remaining pathogens.
Follow-up care: create a"recovery environment", and stop falling into the same traps!
1.Environmental adjustments
Immediately move it to a place with excellent ventilation (by a window, next to a fan), and make sure there is at least4hours of air circulation a day, to blow away the moisture.
Keep the temperature at18-28°C, and avoid a stuffy environment with high heat and high humidity; lower the air humidity to below60%. If it is too damp, use a dehumidifying bag or a fan to bring it down.
2. Control watering
Absolutely no water is allowed to accumulate in the leaf crown! When watering or misting, avoid the leaf crown, and dry it promptly after rain or misting.
Switch to the"soak when bone dry"method: wait until the sphagnum moss is completely dry and the pot feels light when you pick it up, then soak the pot for about10minutes, letting the sphagnum moss absorb water slowly. Do not water directly and wash over the leaves.
3.Special cases:
If it is accompanied by black rot/a foul odor (bacterial soft rot), you must completely cut away all blackened, foul-smelling diseased tissue, until the rhizome has no odor at all and is healthy green.
Switch to"pyraclostrobin"for targeted sterilization, which is more effective than ordinary fungicides.
During the rescue period, stop fertilizing completely, and even if there is a flower spike, cut it off without hesitation (don't think about blooming -- survival comes first!). Let the plant concentrate its nutrients on growing roots.
If the root system is still healthy, try the"air root induction method": cover the rhizome with a plastic box that has ventilation holes (don't suffocate it), keep the environment humid but not waterlogged, and encourage new roots to sprout.
Key to prevention during hot, humid seasons!
1.Summer or the rainy season is when mushiness occurs most often. Open the windows for ventilation at least2hours a day, and if necessary, point a small fan at it. Don't let the environment become a"sauna".
2.If you notice anything off about any single leaf, isolate the diseased plant immediately. Don't put it together with healthy plants, to avoid cross-infection.
3.Don't water too frequently in normal times. The sphagnum moss should be kept on the dry side rather than wet, and never let water accumulate in the leaf crown!