Is there a difference in watering old and new Phalaenopsis orchids, and which one blooms more easily?

Once you have grown Phalaenopsis orchids for a while, you will find that old plants and new plants have completely different"temperaments". Just the watering alone is worlds apart, let alone their blooming performance. So how should you care for this old-and-new pair in summer so that both grow smoothly?

First, let's talk about the difference in watering. Old plants, well, their root systems are long established, and some old roots even have brownish outer layers, with water-absorbing ability far worse than before. In summer, do not water too frequently, otherwise the old roots cannot withstand the soaking and rot easily. When checking the potting medium, wait until it is dry 3 cm below the surface before watering, and after each watering, promptly pour out the water in the saucer; do not let it accumulate at the bottom of the pot. Choose morning or evening for watering, and pour slowly along the edge of the pot so the sphagnum moss or bark absorbs water little by little. Do not blast water directly at the old roots, lest you injure the fragile root system.

New plants are different. Their roots are all tender, fresh "crystal tips", and this is exactly when they crave water. In summer, water evaporates quickly and the roots of new plants are active, so when the surface of the potting medium dries, you must replenish water in time, otherwise the crystal tips tend to dry out and shrink. But do not keep the sphagnum moss constantly soggy either; keeping it slightly moist is best. When watering, you can pour a little more thoroughly so the new roots can drink their fill, but likewise do not let water accumulate; after all, although new roots can absorb water, they also fear being smothered.

Now let's talk about blooming. When it comes to blooming ability, old plants are far more reliable than new plants. Old plants over three years old have stored enough nutrients in their pseudobulbs (the plump, rounded part below the leaves), and as long as the environment is suitable, they tend to send up flower spikes once autumn arrives. Just as adults with plenty of energy have more confidence in what they do, old plants not only bloom in greater numbers but also have a longer flowering period, sometimes blooming for two to three months.

As for new plants (especially those divided not long ago), do not expect them to bloom. At this time they are busy growing new leaves and new roots, with no energy at all to spare for developing flower buds. If you force a new plant to bloom, it will instead consume too many nutrients, causing it to grow spindly and weak, and making it hard for it to be in good shape later. Just as you would not make a child do heavy work while they are still growing, a new plant must first be grown strong; only when its pseudobulb has grown to the size of a thumb will it have the potential to bloom the following year.

If you want both old and new plants to thrive in summer, besides focusing your watering differently, there is one thing they have in common to watch out for: both fear strong sun and stuffy conditions. Whether new or old, they must be placed in bright, indirect light, such as a corner of the living room or behind a sheer curtain, and never in direct sunlight at noon. Open the windows morning and evening for ventilation, or use a small fan to blow air, so that with air movement the roots are less prone to problems. As for fertilizing, old plants can occasionally be given a light feeding (such as diluted orchid fertilizer), while new plants should not be fertilized; it is not too late to feed them again in autumn.

When growing Phalaenopsis orchids in summer, do not water old plants too frequently, and do not let new plants get too dry. Once you distinguish the needs of the two, and also do a good job of shading and ventilation, whether you want the old plant to bloom next year or the new plant to grow strong quickly, neither will be difficult!