Home › Flower Cultivation › Article

Detailed guide to fertilizing hydroponic Phalaenopsis orchids: how to fertilize for the best results

Flower Cultivation By Grace Miller 0 views
Many flower lovers always run into pitfalls when growing hydroponic Phalaenopsis orchids: either the roots rot and leaves turn yellow after fertilizing, or the plant only grows leaves and never blooms. In fact, the key to fertilizing hydroponic Phalaenopsis orchids lies in "choosing fertilizer by stage + controlling the concentration well." Today I will share the detailed method with everyone, and if you follow it, your Phalaenopsis orchids will have strong roots and bloom every year~ 1. By stage

Many flower lovers keep stumbling when growing Phalaenopsis (moth orchids) in water culture: either the roots rot and the leaves turn yellow after fertilizing, or the plant only grows leaves and never blooms. In fact, the key to fertilizing water-cultured Phalaenopsis lies in"choosing fertilizer by stage+controlling the concentration"

1. Fertilizing by stage

The fertilizing rhythm for water-cultured Phalaenopsis should follow the growth stage, because nutrient needs differ completely from one period to another, and choosing the wrong fertilizer means all your effort is wasted!

Growth period (from the end of blooming to autumn): after the flowers fade, Phalaenopsis enters the vegetative growth stage, whose main tasks are growing new leaves and building roots. At this time it needs a balanced"growth fertilizer"with balanced nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, such as Peter's Professional1 (NPK ratio1:1:1).

Fertilizing frequency: soak in fertilizer water about once every20 days, no need to do it too often; give the roots buffer time to absorb.

Method: pour the diluted fertilizer water into the container, with the water level covering half of the root system (do not submerge it completely; leave part of the roots to breathe), soak for10 hours, then pour it out and switch back to clean water for regular care.

Effect: it supplies balanced nutrients, making new leaves thick and glossy and the roots grow stronger, laying the foundation for later blooming.

Bloom-promoting period (autumn to before blooming): once autumn brings cooler temperatures, Phalaenopsis shifts from vegetative growth to reproductive growth, and at this point you should switch to"bloom-promoting fertilizer"2 (high-phosphorus-potassium formula) or monopotassium phosphate.

Fertilizing frequency: apply once every15-20 days, a little more frequently than during the growth period, to seize the key window of flower bud differentiation.

Method: dilute the concentration strictly to1:2000 (better too weak than too strong), also soak the roots for10 hours, then pour it out and switch back to clean water for soaking the roots, to avoid fertilizer residue damaging the roots.

Effect: phosphorus and potassium promote flower bud differentiation, so the Phalaenopsis sends up more flower spikes; when it blooms there are more flowers and richer colors, and the blooming period can be extended.

2. Fertilizing precautions
 
The roots of water-cultured Phalaenopsis sit directly in water, so they are especially sensitive to fertilizer concentration and type. Be sure to remember these details, otherwise it is very easy to"do a good deed badly"!

The concentration must be"low": water culture has no soil buffer, so even a slightly higher fertilizer concentration will burn the roots! Beginners are advised to lower the fertilizer concentration to1/4-1/5 of the usual concentration for potted plants. For example, if the package says"1:1000""1:4000-5000"

Stop fertilizing at extreme temperatures: when summer temperatures stay above30°C or winter temperatures drop below10°C

Moisten the roots before fertilizing: before fertilizing, make sure the roots are moist (just the state of normal clean-water care). If dry roots suddenly come into contact with fertilizer water, they are easily damaged by excessive osmotic pressure, turning black and rotting.

No fertilizing for weak plants: if the Phalaenopsis has yellowing leaves, or black rot or shriveled roots, the plant is in a weakened state. Never fertilize at this time! First switch to clean water to nurse the roots, and only after new roots emerge and the leaves perk up again should you add a small amount of fertilizer.

Choose the right fertilizer type: water-cultured Phalaenopsis can only use orchid-specific water-soluble fertilizer, which dissolves quickly and is easy to absorb; oily fertilizers (such as fermented oil residue water) or granular slow-release fertilizers easily pollute the water and clog the roots' breathing, so they must never be used.

Observe carefully after fertilizing: after each fertilizing, watch the leaves and roots: if the leaves turn yellow and soft, or the roots turn black and mushy, it means the fertilizer concentration is too high or the plant cannot tolerate it. Immediately pour out the fertilizer water, rinse the roots with clean water, then replace with clean water, until the condition recovers.


Related Articles