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What is the difference between old and new Phalaenopsis orchids, and should they be watered the same way?

Flower Cultivation By john 0 views
Phalaenopsis growers may notice that old plants and new plants look different, and when it comes to watering, you really cannot treat them all the same. First, let's talk about the differences between the two, then discuss the ins and outs of watering, so even beginners can understand. A small plant just bought from a flower shop has tender leaves, only 2-3 of them, and most of the roots are white or light green

Phalaenopsis growers may notice that old plants and new plants look different, and when it comes to watering, you really cannot treat them all the same. First, let's talk about the differences between the two, then discuss the ins and outs of watering, so even beginners can understand.

 

A small plant just bought from a flower shop has tender leaves, only 2-3 of them, and most of the roots are white or light green, looking fresh and juicy. This is a new plant. New plants are characterized by strong growth, with roots and leaves growing vigorously, but they have weak resistance, and a little stress can easily cause problems.

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What about old plants then? Generally, after being grown for more than two years, they may have 4-5 leaves, and the lower leaves may turn a bit yellow and wrinkled. The roots are different too. An old plant's roots may be somewhat brown, and some may even become woody. They may not look as glossy, but their absorption capacity and drought tolerance are stronger than those of new plants. In addition, old plants bloom more often, and sometimes they send out side shoots from the base, which is also a sign of theirs.

 

Next, let's focus on watering. The difference can be big. New plants should be watered gently. Their new roots and tender leaves are afraid of waterlogging, and too much water can easily cause root rot. Usually, when the surface of the sphagnum moss looks a little dry and does not feel sticky to the touch, water just a little along the edge of the pot, just enough to make the sphagnum moss slightly moist. When watering, do not pour into the center of the leaves, otherwise accumulated water will rot the crown. It is best to use a narrow-spout watering can and slowly water into the substrate. When the weather is hot, occasionally spray water around to increase humidity, but do not spray onto the roots.

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Old plants do not need to be watered so cautiously. Their roots and leaves are mature, and their water storage capacity is strong, so being a little dry is actually fine. You can wait until the surface of the sphagnum moss is drier, even a bit whitish, before watering. When watering, you can give a little more so that the substrate absorbs water fully, but it still must not become waterlogged. Old plants fear drought, but they fear stuffiness even more, so after watering, be sure to place them in a well-ventilated spot so the excess water evaporates as soon as possible.

 

There are also some small details to note. For example, new plants are best kept in small pots, with a water-retaining but breathable substrate such as sphagnum moss, and the watering frequency can be a little higher, about 5-7 days once; old plants can use a slightly larger pot, with some bark added to the substrate to increase air permeability, and the watering interval can be extended to about 10 days. In addition, whether new plants or old plants, water less in winter, and the water temperature should not be too cold, otherwise it will shock the roots.

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New plants need careful care, so do not let them drink too much; old plants are like adults, with strong drought tolerance, and a slightly more relaxed approach actually helps them grow well. Once you figure out their temperaments and treat them differently when watering, both new plants and old plants can be grown lush and green, blooming continuously.


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