Do side shoots on Phalaenopsis affect flowering? Learn how to divide them correctly

Fellow Phalaenopsis growers may notice a small side shoot suddenly sprouting next to an otherwise healthy plant. It looks interesting, but it also makes you uneasy: will this thing affect flowering? And if you want to separate it and grow it on its own, how should you go about it?

Will a side shoot affect flowering? Actually, it depends on the situation. If the Phalaenopsis is in its flowering period, or has just put out a flower spike, then a side shoot appearing at this time will most likely divert nutrients. Think about it: blooming is already exhausting, and the side shoot keeps grabbing nutrients, so the original flowers may bloom smaller, bloom fewer, or even fade early. But if the flowers have already faded and the plant has entered its growth period, then a side shoot growing at this time is not a big problem. Instead, it shows the orchid is in good condition and has extra energy to reproduce. So the key is timing. Side shoots around the flowering period need attention, while those growing after flowering can be left with peace of mind.

So how do you divide the side shoot? You cannot just pull it off casually. You need to pay attention to timing and method, otherwise it is easy to kill both the mother plant and the side shoot.

First, you have to wait for the side shoot to grow strong. Do not rush to touch a small shoot that has just emerged. At least wait until it has grown to 5 cm or more, and preferably until it has grown more than 3 aerial roots of its own, with roots that look white, tender and vigorous. Only then is the survival rate of division high. If you pull off the side shoot before it has grown roots, it basically will not survive.

Then choose the right time. It is best to divide in spring and autumn, when the temperature is neither cold nor hot (15-25°C is most suitable). Phalaenopsis is highly active then and wounds recover quickly. Summer is too hot and prone to rot, while winter is too cold and risks frost damage, so neither is very suitable.

Preparation before division must be thorough. Do not water for two days in advance, so the potting mix is slightly dry; this makes the roots more flexible and less likely to break. Prepare a sharp small knife and wipe it with alcohol first to disinfect it. Do not casually cut with a fruit knife from home, as it easily carries bacteria. Also prepare some new growing medium. Phalaenopsis can use sphagnum moss or bark, but do not use ordinary garden soil, which is not breathable.

When dividing, first gently knock the Phalaenopsis out of the pot, being careful not to tear the roots. Then look at where the side shoot connects to the mother plant, find that connection point, and gently cut it open with the disinfected small knife. Try to let the side shoot keep some of its own aerial roots, and do not damage too many roots on the mother plant either. After cutting, apply some carbendazim powder to the wound and leave it in a ventilated, shady place for half a day so the wound forms a thin scab. This step can prevent root rot.

Finally comes potting up. Put the side shoot into a smaller pot, wrap the roots with sphagnum moss, and press gently but do not squeeze hard, so the aerial roots can spread out. Replant the mother plant back into its original pot as well. Do not fill the growing medium too full; leave a little space for new roots to grow. After planting, do not water immediately. After a day, spray a little water on the growing medium to keep it moist, and keep it in a place with bright, indirect light. Do not expose it to the sun. After two weeks, once you are sure it has survived, resume normal watering and fertilizing.

Actually, side shoots are a great opportunity for Phalaenopsis propagation. As long as the timing and method are right, you can both keep the mother plant and grow an extra pot of new orchids. Why not do it? Observe more often, and do not panic as soon as you see a side shoot. Follow the steps, and even beginners can handle it.