Can Phalaenopsis (moth orchids) be propagated by cuttings? Detailed cutting methods and tips

When it comes to propagating Phalaenopsis by cuttings, plenty of plant lovers have probably thought about it - after all, the flowers bloom so exquisitely, who wouldn't want a few more pots? But honestly, taking cuttings from Phalaenopsis is much more troublesome than tough plants like roses or pothos.

Phalaenopsis can be propagated by cuttings, but not in the way we usually think of. Unlike roses, where you can just cut a stem and stick it in water to survive, the "cutting" of Phalaenopsis actually makes use of the side buds on the flower spike. This is because Phalaenopsis leaves are too tender and rot not long after being cut off; only the bud nodes on the flower spike have a chance to grow into new plantlets.

So how exactly do you do it? You have to wait until the flowering period is over, when the flower spike still has some strength left. First find a sterilized pair of scissors and cut the spent flower spike shorter, generally leaving about 10 cm, with the rest left on the plant. The key is to find those plump little bud nodes on the flower spike, about the size of a grain of rice, hidden where the leaves and flower spike meet.

Next you need to coax these bud nodes into sprouting. You can dip a cotton swab in some rooting solution and gently dab it on the bud nodes, not too much, to avoid rot. Then move the pot to a spot with bright indirect light and keep the temperature between 20 and 25 degrees, which is the most comfortable temperature for Phalaenopsis. Remember to mist water around it every day to keep the air humid, but don't spray directly on the bud nodes, or they'll easily get moldy.

After about a month or so, those little bud nodes will swell up and gradually grow small leaves. At this point don't rush to separate the plantlet; wait until the new plantlet has grown more than 3 aerial roots, and the rootlets are 5 cm long, before you act. Be careful when separating: use a sterilized small knife to cut off the new plantlet together with a bit of the original flower spike, apply some carbendazim to the wound, and let it air-dry for half a day.

Potting the new plantlet also has its particularities: you can't use ordinary soil, you need to use Phalaenopsis-specific sphagnum moss or bark. First soak the sphagnum moss until soft and squeeze it dry, wrap it around the roots of the new plantlet, and gently tuck it into a breathable plastic pot, being careful not to break the rootlets. After potting, place it in a ventilated spot; for the first two weeks don't expose it to sun and don't water it, just mist a little water daily to keep it moist, and once the new roots have taken hold, resume normal care.

Actually, the success rate of Phalaenopsis cuttings isn't very high; sometimes after all that work you might only get one or two plants. If you find it too troublesome, you can also try division, which means waiting for small side shoots to grow beside the mother plant and separating them directly with their aerial roots to plant - that method is a bit more reliable. But if you want a challenge, trying cuttings is quite interesting too.