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The three simplest steps to acclimate a Phalaenopsis orchid, do this when you just bring it home

Flower Cultivation By Lily Anderson 0 views
During the student holiday season, many parents take their children to flower markets to buy potted plants to care for at home, and the "Phalaenopsis orchid," hailed as the fairy among flowers, is often the first one children point to and ask to keep, because its appearance is unique, just like butterflies dancing. So how do you acclimate a newly bought Phalaenopsis orchid? What should you do to help it smoothly

During the student holiday season, many parents take their children to flower markets to buy potted plants to care for at home, and the "Phalaenopsis orchid," hailed as the fairy among flowers, is often the first one children point to and ask to keep, because its appearance is unique, just like butterflies dancing. So how do you acclimate a newly bought Phalaenopsis orchid? What should you do to help it transition smoothly and keep blooming?

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The first 1 to 2 weeks after bringing the orchid home are quite critical; during this time you should treat it as an honored guest and take good care of it. During this period, do not rush to repot it, because if the roots get damaged it becomes very troublesome. If you find the original pot really too ugly, you can find a well-ventilated ceramic pot or an orchid-specific pot to slip over the outside, which lets you keep an eye on the root condition at all times; if you find blackened, soft, mushy rotten roots, decisively cut them off with scissors, then dab on some carbendazim to disinfect.

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For light, try to find a bright spot that does not get direct sun, such as a north windowsill, or if it is a southeast window, a position 1 meter away (to prevent harsh sun exposure). Also, during the acclimation period, do not move it back and forth, because changes in environment easily cause it to be unsettled.

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As for watering, you also need to be cautious; feel the sphagnum moss or bark more often, and if it is still moist, do not water yet. Wait until it dries, then soak the pot in water for 10 minutes, then take it out and let the water drain. If it is severely dry, do not be impatient and soak it thoroughly all at once; water a little first, then water a little again two days later, and let it recover slowly. Remember that during watering you must never let water accumulate in the crown of the leaves; if you find water, quickly blot it dry with a paper towel.

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Once the orchid has recovered (about a week), begin regular care, increasing the light time each day, with 4 to 6 hours being most suitable. For watering, remember the principle of "water thoroughly when dry"; water only when a finger inserted 2-3 cm into the medium comes out dry. For beginners, the soak method mentioned above is recommended.

For the medium, choose special sphagnum moss or pine bark, and change it once every two years. For fertilizing, spring and autumn are the peak growing seasons; apply orchid fertilizer once every two weeks, and switch to a high-phosphorus, high-potassium fertilizer when it is about to bloom. Do not fertilize in winter or during summer high temperatures.


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