Can a Phalaenopsis with a flower spike be repotted? A detailed guide to repotting methods

Can a Phalaenopsis with a flower spike really be repotted? Plenty of orchid growers have probably agonized over this question. The answer is actually: yes, it can be repotted, but it depends on the situation, and you must be gentle, or a perfectly good flower spike may wilt in no time.

Why do some people think it can't be done? When it has a flower spike, the Phalaenopsis is in its "sprint phase," with nutrients and water going first to the flower spike. Disturbing its roots at this time is like tripping someone while they're running, and things easily go wrong. If the flower spike has already grown quite long, or even sprouted small buds, a slight bump during repotting can send buds tumbling down in a heap, and all that waiting will have been for nothing.

But if the original pot is truly hopeless, for example the drainage holes at the bottom are clogged, the potting medium is compacted like a brick, or a big clump of roots has already grown out of the bottom of the pot, and it simply cannot survive without repotting, then you just have to grit your teeth and do it. I ran into this last time: a friend's Phalaenopsis had a half-cun-long flower spike, and the roots had bulged the plastic pot out tight, with some roots even turning black. Without repotting it would surely rot, so we carefully repotted it in the end, and amazingly not a single bud dropped.

When repotting, remember the "three gentles" principle:

Gentle when removing from the pot: first tap the rim of the original pot to separate the potting medium from the pot wall, then hold the base of the plant with one hand and tip the pot downward with the other; never yank the leaves hard, or the roots may snap. If the pot contains sphagnum moss, just gently peel off the old moss on the outside; don't remove all the moss from the roots, leave a bit as a protective cover.

Gentle when potting up: choose a new pot just one size larger than the original; too large and water will pool after watering. Put some clay pebbles at the bottom for drainage, then place the Phalaenopsis in the middle and slowly tuck new sphagnum moss around it, poking it in gently with chopsticks as you go; don't press hard, or the aerial roots will be crushed and injured.

Gentle about placement: after repotting, don't fuss over it; put it in a corner with bright, indirect light and no wind, out of direct sun and away from drafts, and let it recover. Don't water for the first three days; once the roots have adjusted to the new environment, mist the sphagnum moss a little with a spray bottle.

There are a few pitfalls you must never fall into: don't repot using ordinary soil, as Phalaenopsis roots can't stand the smothering of soil; don't prune the flower spike while repotting, and even if the spike is crooked, leave it alone until the flowers finish blooming; and above all, don't fertilize right after repotting, as fertilizing at this point is like rubbing salt into wounded roots, and rot is guaranteed.

Actually, the best approach is to avoid repotting while it has a flower spike, and wait until the flowers have faded and spring has warmed up again, which is much less risky. But if you truly have no choice and must repot, just remember the words "gentle hands and soft steps." The gentler the repotting, the faster the recovery. Though Phalaenopsis is delicate, as long as you treat it tenderly, it will obediently bloom for you even when repotted with a flower spike.