Can Phalaenopsis orchids grown in sphagnum moss be exposed to full sun? How to care for them after sun scorch

Gardeners who grow Phalaenopsis orchids have probably all agonized over one question: can Phalaenopsis orchids grown in sphagnum moss be put in the sun? Especially in summer, when the sun is so glaring it hurts the eyes, what do you do if they accidentally get too much sun?

Sphagnum moss holds water extremely well, like a sponge; once saturated it can be wrung out to release quite a bit of water. Under strong sun, the sphagnum moss in the pot is like a little steamer, with the temperature climbing fast. Phalaenopsis roots are inherently tender; wrapped in hot, wet sphagnum moss, they can be steamed cooked in less than two hours, and once the roots rot, the whole plant is done for.

Moreover, after long exposure to the sun, sphagnum moss becomes extremely dry, clinging stiffly to the roots, and even if you water it later, it is hard for it to absorb water again. At this point the Phalaenopsis roots become like sandwich cookies, dry and hard on the outside while possibly still holding a bit of moisture inside, and even if they do not rot they will develop problems. As for the leaves, needless to say, the originally glossy leaves turn yellow and scorched after sun exposure, with edges curling like waves, a heartbreaking sight.

So if you fail to keep an eye on it and the Phalaenopsis gets wilted by the sun, what should you do? Do not panic; follow these three steps and you will be fine.

Step one, move it to a shady spot right away. Find a place with good ventilation and only diffused light, such as behind a sheer curtain by a window, but do not move it directly back into an air-conditioned room, as too great a temperature difference easily causes stress. At this time, absolutely do not water; sun-heated roots suddenly meeting cold water is like a person being doused with ice water, and they are even more likely to rot.

Step two, cool down the leaves. Use a spray bottle filled with room-temperature water and gently mist the leaves, being careful not to let water collect in the leaf crown, or the crown will rot. After spraying, wait half an hour, then wipe the leaves with a clean cloth to help them dissipate heat faster. If the sphagnum moss has already dried out and become hard, do not rush to water it thoroughly; first mist the surface of the moss with a spray bottle to let it slowly rehydrate, and after two hours water it thoroughly.

Step three, observe the roots and leaves. After two or three days, see whether the leaves are less wilted. If the leaves are still limp, you will need to take the plant out of the pot and check the roots. Gently pull the sphagnum moss apart; healthy roots are silvery white with a touch of green, but if you feel roots that are blackened and slimy, quickly cut them off with sterilized scissors, apply some carbendazim to the wounds, let them dry for half a day, then repot with fresh sphagnum moss.

Actually, when growing Phalaenopsis in sphagnum moss, you should keep it away from strong light at all times. In spring and autumn, it can get half an hour of morning sun; in summer, it can only get the slanted light at sunrise and sunset; in winter, when light is weak, it can actually get a bit more sun. Remember to keep the sphagnum moss moist but not waterlogged, and water only when the surface feels a little dry; after each watering, tip the pot to drain, and do not let water accumulate at the bottom of the pot.

In the end, Phalaenopsis orchids are afraid of full sun, and sphagnum moss amplifies the harm of full sun. Pay more attention to light levels normally, and if they do get sun-damaged, do not panic; rescue them step by step and most will recover.