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How to care for potted strawberries in winter so they survive the cold safely

Flower Cultivation By Grace Miller 0 views
If you want your potted strawberries to thrive and bear plenty of fruit in winter, just focus on these key points, and even beginners can handle it easily. Temperature: strawberries are sensitive to cold and to extreme temperature swings. Below 5°C, the roots are prone to frost damage, and the leaves will wilt and turn purple. In the north, keep them in a heated room; in the south, keep them out of direct cold drafts, and at night you can cover them with a plastic bag to keep them warm (leave ventilation holes).

To grow potted strawberries well in winter and get a big harvest, just nail these few key points, and even beginners can handle it easily.

Temperature: Strawberries hate the cold and hate extreme temperature swings even more; below 5°C the roots are easily frostbitten, and the leaves will wilt and turn purple.

In the north, keep them in a heated room; in the south, keep them out of direct cold drafts, and at night you can slip a plastic bag over them for insulation (leave air holes).

Keep them away from air-conditioner vents and radiators, so the plant is not stressed by going from hot to cold and back again.

Light: Strawberries love light, and too little light easily leads to rampant leaf and stem growth with few flowers.
 
Put them on a south-facing balcony and make sure they get 6-8 hours of light a day, and the fruit will be sweeter.

If an enclosed balcony has poor light, add a grow light and supplement 4-6 hours a day; keeping it 30-50 cm from the plant is fine.

Potting soil: The roots are delicate, so the soil must be loose and not smother them

Recommended mix: peat moss + perlite (3:1), or a general-purpose potting mix with 10% perlite added; a slightly acidic environment suits growth better.

Use a breathable flower pot of 20-30 cm, and punch plenty of holes in the bottom to prevent waterlogging.

Fertilizing: They like fertilizer but are prone to root burn

 Small, frequent meals is the principle: when planting, bury some decomposed sheep manure or slow-release fertilizer as a base fertilizer, 5 cm away from the roots.

While leaves are growing, water with a little diluted nitrogen fertilizer, such as soybean cake water; after buds appear, switch to phosphorus and potassium fertilizer (monopotassium phosphate at a 1000-fold dilution), once every 10 days.

When in doubt, keep the concentration lower rather than higher; if it touches roots or leaves, rinse promptly with clean water.

Watering: Let it dry out and then water, but never splash the flowers or fruit

Water again when the soil 2 cm below the surface has dried out; in winter, do it once every 5-7 days; do not let water accumulate and rot the roots.

Water along the edge of the pot or by bottom watering; do not splash the flowers and fruit, to avoid rot.

Use tap water that has been left to sit; the water temperature should ideally be close to room temperature.

Key reminders: Do not make the fertilizer too concentrated; if it touches the roots, rinse with clean water; be gentle when repotting, and cut off any rotten roots, disinfect them, and then pot them up. After the fruit sets, spread a layer of dry grass, which both protects the roots and keeps the fruit from touching mud~
 
Do these well, and even in winter you can grow potted strawberries covered in little red berries.


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