Why Phalaenopsis Orchids Wither Before Their Blooming Period Ends and How to Fix It

Have the Phalaenopsis orchids you grow withered away before they even finished blooming? Today let's talk about all the reasons Phalaenopsis orchids fade early, and show you step by step how to get them to bloom profusely and healthily!

The number one trigger: environment

Temperature: The most suitable temperature for Phalaenopsis orchids is 15-28°C. In winter, if the temperature in a heated room exceeds 30°C, the flowers will age faster; if the temperature suddenly drops below 10°C, the buds will simply freeze in place! Northern growers, don't put it next to underfloor heating; southern growers, during the humid "returning south" days, move it away from damp corners in time.

Humidity: 60%-80% humidity is what suits Phalaenopsis orchids! Too dry will make the petals dehydrate and curl, while too humid easily breeds pathogens and rots the buds. Those of you growing them in the office, remember to mist around them with a spray bottle every day; those growing them at home can pair them with a humidifier, but be careful not to spray directly at the flowers!

Light: Strong direct sunlight will scorch the buds, while complete shade will make the flower color paler and shorten the bloom period! It's best to place it by an east- or south-facing window, with 4-6 hours of indirect light a day being enough.

The secondtrigger: fertilizing

Lack of fertilizer: If phosphorus and potassium fertilizer isn't supplemented in time during the flower bud differentiation stage (usually autumn and winter), the buds naturally won't have the strength to open fully! It's best to dilute monopotassium phosphate 1000 times, and water the roots or spray the leaves once a week, and the flowers will be bigger and more vivid.

Strong fertilizer: Being impatient and applying strong fertilizer will instead "burn the plant"! Some growers see small buds and pile on the fertilizer, and the result is damaged roots and all the buds dropping off! Remember, light fertilizer applied frequently is the way to go; it's better to make the concentration a bit weaker than to be greedy for more.

Bloom-period taboo: Never fertilize once the plant is already blooming! Fertilizing at this stage speeds up metabolism and causes the flowers to fade early.

The third trigger: the root system

Root rot: If the sphagnum moss isn't breathable or you water too often, the roots suffocate in the damp environment and turn black and rot! After the flowers fade, be sure to dig open the medium to check the roots; if you find rot, cut it off with sterilized scissors, then soak in carbendazim solution for 10 minutes to disinfect.

Hollow roots: With prolonged lack of water or overly dry medium, the roots will slowly shrivel. When this happens, don't rush to water heavily; first soak the plant in clean water for 10 minutes to rehydrate, then repot it in fresh, moist sphagnum moss.

Key to rejuvenation: If the root damage is severe, don't rush to push it into bloom! First keep it in a spot with indirect light and good ventilation for normal care for 1-2 months, and wait until new roots grow before fertilizing. 

Methods to encourage blooming
 
Keeping-the-spike method: After the flowers fade, don't rush to cut! Count 2-3 nodes down from the spent flower, then cut at an angle 1cm above, keeping the main flower spike. With normal watering and fertilizing, side spikes will emerge 2-3 months later, and at that point you can use monopotassium phosphate to force blooming and get it to flower again.

Full-cut rebirth method: Cut the flower spike off directly at the base and care for it normally until the end of the year; the Phalaenopsis will naturally sprout new flower buds. Although the wait is long, the next bloom will be even more spectacular!