How do Phalaenopsis orchids absorb nutrients, and what fertilizer should be used when the leaves turn yellow from malnutrition?

Many flower lovers who grow Phalaenopsis orchids notice yellowing leaves and few flowers, and their first reaction is malnutrition! But have you ever thought about it: this plant doesn't grow in soil, and it isn't watered any less than usual, so where exactly does it absorb nutrients from?

Phalaenopsis orchids are quite different from ordinary plants! The roots of Phalaenopsis have an amazing ability - aerial roots! Look at its white, fleshy roots: they can not only grip bark and sphagnum moss to anchor the plant, but also take nutrients directly from the air and moisture. For wild Phalaenopsis orchids, when it rains, the rainwater washes humus and microorganisms off the bark, and this nutrient soup is absorbed through the spongy layer on the surface of the aerial roots.

In addition, the leaves of Phalaenopsis also hide a secret! Its leaf surface has a cuticle layer. Although it cannot "eat" in big mouthfuls like the roots, if you spray some foliar fertilizer, or if the air humidity is high enough, the leaves can also secretly absorb some nutrients. But remember, aerial roots are its main force for eating; if the roots rot or shrivel, no amount of fertilizer will help!

If you find that the leaves of Phalaenopsis are yellowing and listless, it is most likely malnutrition. What fertilizer should be fed at this time? Don't rush to buy a bunch of flower fertilizers; first figure out what is lacking! If the leaves turn yellow and thin, and new leaves grow slowly, it may be a lack of nitrogen fertilizer; if it only grows leaves but does not bloom, it is mostly a lack of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer; if the leaf edges are scorched and the plant easily lodges, it may be a lack of calcium and magnesium. Only by treating the cause can you get twice the result with half the effort!

When fertilizing Phalaenopsis, remember the four words "weak fertilizer, frequent application"! The most commonly used is compound fertilizer, such as Huaduoduo1 (balanced fertilizer) and Huaduoduo2 (mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer). I usually dilute the fertilizer into a1500 - 2000-fold solution and water it once every half month, or spray it directly on the aerial roots and leaves. Beginners who are afraid of burning the roots can buy slow-release fertilizer, such as OsmocoteA2, and sprinkle a dozen granules into the pot. The fertilizer effect is released slowly, saving worry and being safe!

Some flower lovers ask: "Can rice washing water or fruit peel water be used as fertilizer?" My suggestion is to avoid using them if possible! These homemade fertilizers easily ferment and breed insects, and may also stink in the flowerpot. The aerial roots of Phalaenopsis cannot stand it. If you really want to use organic fertilizer, choose well-fermented sheep manure pellets or worm castings, bury a few grains on the surface of the bark, and it will be mild and long-lasting.

In addition, besides fertilizing, regular repotting can also supplement nutrients! The bark and sphagnum moss of Phalaenopsis will decompose after long use, and the nutrients will become fewer and fewer. It is recommended to change the medium once every spring, and by the way trim the shriveled and rotten roots, then change to a new pot, and the Phalaenopsis will immediately come back to full strength!

Phalaenopsis relies on aerial roots and leaves to absorb nutrients. If you find yellow leaves, don't rush to fertilize randomly; first determine what is lacking. Compound fertilizer and slow-release fertilizer are the most reliable, and weak fertilizer with frequent application is the way to go!