How to Propagate Succulents from Leaf Cuttings: Methods and Steps
Who knows the joy of turning one plant into many! Today I will teach you step by step how to leaf-propagate succulents, so even beginners can easily achieve "succulent freedom"!
Choosing leaves
Standard: choose plump, full leaves free of pests and diseases, and gently wiggle them left and right to remove them intact, keeping the growth point.
Pitfalls to avoid: discard shriveled leaves, leaves that have turned to mush, or leaves with black spots.
Drying the leaves
Method: dry them in a cool, ventilated place for 2-3days, until the wound dries and forms a scab.
Pitfalls to avoid: if they are not dried, they easily turn to mush
Soil mix and placement
Soil mix: granular soil+peat soil=1:1
Placement: lay the leaves flat on the soil surface with the front side up, spaced2cmapart, and put them in a bright spot with indirect light and good airflow.
Pitfalls to avoid: do not bury the leaves in soil, and avoid full sun.
Watering
Before sprouting: do not water! When the soil is dry, mist around the edge of the pot to raise humidity; do not spray the leaves.
After rooting: use a bent-spout watering can to drip a small amount of water along the roots, keeping water off the bud point and the soil slightly moist.
Repotting
Timing: when the small plant has grown to the size of a 1-yuan coin and the mother leaf has naturally dried up, transplant it with its soil into a small pot.
Notes:
1.Frequently turning the leaves will cause the growth point to fall off, which means immediate failure.
2.Sunbathing before sprouting=the leaves turn into "jerky" be patient and wait for the roots to grow before giving sun.
3.Succulents are drought-tolerant, and too much water will definitely cause rot, so remember the principle of "water thoroughly only when completely dry."
4.Spring and autumn are the golden period for leaf propagation; when the nighttime temperature is10-15°C, put the pot by a window; the temperature difference stimulates budding more easily.
Must-pick varieties for beginners
Graptopetalum "Purple Delight" (Zile):7days or so to root, and within1month it can produce pups; just toss a leaf on the soil and it will live.
Echeveria "Allen": extremely high survival rate, with plump, round leaves; after budding the little plants are plump and super cute, suitable for practice.
Graptoveria "Titubans" (White Peony): the king of common succulents, easy to cluster, and leaf-propagated seedlings grow quickly into old stems.
Commonproblems
Turning to mush: immediately discard the leaf, ventilate to dissipate moisture, and avoid infecting other seedlings.
Roots but no buds: lightly bury the roots in the soil and wait1month; if the growth point has not fully healed, it may be delayed.
Seedlings growing leggy: increase light, give3-4hours of indirect light per day, and reduce watering frequency.
In short, as long as you master these key points, you can easily harvest a full pot of succulents.