Flower repotting methods, precautions and timing

Simple repotting and transplanting techniques can greatly increase the survival rate of plants. How to repot flowers? What should be noted when repotting? When is the time to repot flowers? Household potted plants should be repotted (soil changed) every 2-3 years. Repotting (changing the soil) not only helps stimulate plant vitality and enables better nutrient absorption, but also helps accelerate the growth of potted plants.

I. Methods and precautions for repotting flowers

1. Principles of repotting flowers

The purpose of repotting is to improve the nutritional condition of the plant. Generally, annual and biennial herbaceous flowers need to be repotted 1 to 2 times before flowering. Perennial flowers are repotted once a year; woody flowers can be repotted once every other year. For example, Aglaia odorata, Chinese rose, jasmine, poinsettia and hibiscus all need to be repotted once a year; camellia, orchid and azalea, although they grow more slowly, should also be repotted once every other year.

For large perennial potted flowers, because the root system gradually develops and because of years of watering, the soil in the pot gradually decreases, the potting soil becomes increasingly compacted, its air permeability gradually declines compared with before, and the nutrients in the soil also gradually become insufficient for the plant's needs. Therefore, even if large potted flowers are still kept in the original pot, the soil should be changed at least once every 2 years, trimming away some bad roots, overly long and overgrown roots, rotten roots and roots damaged by pests and diseases, and adding some new soil to help the plant continue to grow larger.

The time to repot flowers is during the dormant period of the flowers. Repotting woody and perennial flowers can generally be done in March, and early-spring flowers should be repotted after flowering.

2. Steps for repotting flowers

(1) Turn the flower pot upside down and pat the bottom of the pot so that the plant's root ball comes out whole with the soil. If the potting soil is too tight, you can use an iron rod or a screwdriver inserted around the edge of the pot to loosen the soil. Then tip out the soil ball.

(2) Trim the bottom of the plant's root system, removing old roots, dead roots, diseased roots and overly dense, tangled roots. Thick strong roots that affect pot compatibility (these only serve to anchor the plant itself, while only the fine hair roots absorb nutrients) can also be appropriately shortened.

(3) Use window screen mesh at the bottom of the flower pot to cover the drainage hole, which serves to prevent insects, then press on a stone, and then use soil mixed with base fertilizer to pad the bottom of the flower pot by about 2CM (so that the plant's roots have room to grow and vitality is stimulated), and firm it down. Then put the plant into the pot and cover with soil.

(4) After planting the plant, firm the surface soil layer of the pot (so that the plant's roots are in close contact with the soil and can absorb nutrients and water), and then you can water it (the settling water). For the initial watering, it is recommended not to fertilize; the plant should be given a certain adaptation period (adapting to the pot, about half a month or more) before applying a light fertilizer. The water should be watered thoroughly, and the plant should be placed in a ventilated, shaded spot for more than a week before normal care.

II. Precautions for repotting flowers

(1) During the production of flower pots, the bottom hole often has a ring of upward-facing rim. If this rim is not removed, it will affect drainage during the rainy season, so it should be knocked off when repotting. When potting, a piece of plastic window screen can also be used as a base layer, which can prevent white grubs and earthworms from entering the pot.

(2) When repotting, the root soil ball tipped out must have a layer of old roots on the outside cut off with a sharp garden trowel, and the surface soil of the root system also needs to be loosened with a trowel. Otherwise, the root system will coil crookedly around the pot wall without extending, making it susceptible to drought, waterlogging, cold and heat changes, and the plant often develops poorly.

(3) After repotting with new soil, the potting soil must be firmed down to avoid cavities appearing in the potting soil after watering, which would affect the root system's absorption of water. Also, a watering rim must be left, so that there is a place for water to stop because the potting soil is not completely full.

(4) Watering must be thorough. For the first watering after repotting, use the immersion method: place the potted flower in a basin of water, and take it out and set it aside once the surface of the potting soil is moist. After the first watering, water again only when the potting soil has dried until the surface turns white, following the principle of "do not water if not dry."

III. Timing for repotting flowers.

Generally, repotting should be done during the dormant period of the flowers, from late February to early March in early spring, or preferably as late as early April, when the flowers' metabolism is slow. The time for repotting and changing soil for spring-flowering plants should be when the flowers and trees are budding or before growth begins. At this time the plant is in its dormant period and has low water and fertilizer requirements, so damaging some roots will not affect the survival rate, nor will it cause leaf drop or mass leaf drop. If such a situation occurs, you should water to prevent drying out, increase the frequency of spraying water on the leaves, and suspend fertilizing at the same time. After a period of adjustment, the yellowing leaves will stop dropping, vitality will be restored, and new leaves will grow again.