How should flower cuttings that are difficult to root be handled?

Flower cuttings that are difficult to root also have a low survival rate, so here is a sharing with everyone below.

In order to promote rooting of cuttings and increase the survival rate, some flowers and trees that are difficult to root should be given appropriate treatment:

(1) 1-2 weeks before taking cuttings, use ring barking or wire binding to concentrate nutrients at the wound.

(2) For some succulent flowers, such as cacti, Crassulaceae plants, etc., before cuttings the cuttings must be properly air-dried for 3-5 days, and some can even be air-dried for as long as 1 week, then inserted into sandy soil that is moderately dry and moist.

(3) Treat cuttings with plant growth regulators to promote rooting. The regulators used are mostly naphthaleneacetic acid, indoleacetic acid, indolebutyric acid, etc.; these are actually all plant growth substances. When using them, the concentration should be determined according to the type of flowers and trees; the commonly used dosage is mostly 0.5‰-2‰ naphthaleneacetic acid, or use indolebutyric acid solution to dip the base of the cuttings, then carry out cutting. After flower cuttings are inserted, the cutting bed should often maintain a relatively high temperature (generally around 25°C for fast rooting) and uniform soil moisture. In the early stage of cutting, shade should be provided, and grass curtains or shade nets can be used for shading; in the later stage, more light should be given. When the cuttings have rooted to a length of 3-4 cm, they can be transplanted.

What is used as the medium for the cutting bed.

The cutting bed can generally be made using a wooden box or a large flower pot. Inside the bed (inside the box or pot), spread a drainage layer of coarse sand or charcoal crumbs about 12 cm thick at the lower part, and on top of it spread a layer of fine river sand 8-10 cm thick as the medium (cutting layer). Vermiculite can also be used as the medium for cutting.