Organic Baozhong Tea National Grading Evaluation: Zheng Xinzhong Wins the Emerald Frog Award, Showcasing Floral and Fruity Aromas

The results of the first-ever National Organic Baozhong Tea Grading Evaluation are out. Zheng Xinzhong of Sanxingshan Organic Tea Garden courageously won the highest-level Emerald Frog Award, while nearly 30 other farmers took home Gold Frog, Silver Frog and Bronze Frog Awards. Evaluation representative and Director of the Tea Research and Extension Station's Wenshan Branch, Su Yanshuo, stated that organic tea leaves are prone to insect damage, making tea production more difficult than conventional tea. However, with advances in cultivation technology, "this time the Gold Frog Award and Emerald Frog Award teas are in no way inferior to regular competition teas!" (For the complete list, please see the end of the article)

Baozhong tea, also known as strip-style oolong tea, is rich in aroma with a mellow charm - the finest of teas

Baozhong tea, also known as "strip-style oolong," belongs to the partially fermented (oolong) category with a relatively light degree of fermentation. The dried tea leaves appear strip-shaped with a dark green color and a glossy sheen. The brewed tea liquor is honey-yellow with a jade-green tint, offering a sweet and mellow taste on the palate, with a fresh, uplifting aroma when smelled. It is a tea type that places great emphasis on fragrance. The Tea Research and Extension Station describes it with five major characteristics - "fragrance, richness, mellowness, lingering charm, and beauty" - and calls Baozhong tea the finest of teas.

According to data from the Tea Research and Extension Station, Baozhong tea is the finest of teas because you can simultaneously enjoy the smooth, velvety tea liquor that stimulates saliva production with an active quality after drinking, as well as rich floral aromas. Ball-type oolong includes the common light-aroma oolong and Dong Ding oolong, with a fuller tea body. If evaluated by "freshness," Baozhong tea (strip-style oolong) has a slight edge.

Emerald Frog Award winner Zheng Xinzhong crafted tea from the "Cuiyu" cultivar, showcasing floral, pineapple and fruity aromas

"This year's weather was unstable, but the performance of organic tea was truly stunning." Su Yanshuo stated that this year's organic teas were better than in previous organic tea evaluations. Since there were no restrictions on submitted tea cultivars, ranging from the common Qingxin Oolong, Taiwan Tea No. 22, Jinxuan, to local cultivars like Baimaohou, Cuiyu, and even Sijichun, "the cultivars from various regions were quite diverse, and each cultivar's unique characteristics were fully expressed!"

Evaluator Zheng Xinzhong, Su Yanshuo and Cai Zhixian stated that the tea Zheng Xinzhong submitted for the Emerald Frog Award was made from "Cuiyu" cultivar tea leaves. The advantage of Cuiyu lies in its elegant aroma, but balancing the flavor is not easy. However, the Baozhong tea crafted by Zheng Xinzhong not only showcased Cuiyu's rich aromas, including not just floral notes but also pineapple and fruity aromas, but also maintained the "sweetness, mellowness and lingering charm" that Baozhong tea should display, thus taking first place.

First National Organic Baozhong Tea Grading Evaluation, aimed at letting organic tea farmers' efforts be seen

"In Taiwan's tea trade, evaluation results are a key factor." Zeng Shuli, Production Section Chief of the Liugong Foundation, one of the executing organizations for this grading evaluation, stated that many organic tea farmers reported that tea without grading evaluation often cannot fetch a good price. Starting from 2017, grading evaluations were conducted following the same standards as regular tea to help farmers with sales.

Zeng Shuli explained that this was the third time organizing an organic tea evaluation. The first two organic tea evaluations were regional, with participating farmers mainly from Pinglin and Shiding. This year's third edition is the first time organic tea farmers from across the country participate together, also aimed at letting more people see the hard work of organic tea farmers.

Evaluation introduces the Tea Research and Extension Station's TAGs system; evaluated teas receive exclusive flavor cards

Su Zongzhen stated, "This evaluation is the first in the country specifically for organic Baozhong tea, helping farmers with sales and also letting the public better understand organic tea and have more confidence in it." To help the public better understand organic tea, this evaluation introduced the TAGs classification system published by the Tea Research and Extension Station this year. This system integrates flavor wheels from major domestic production regions and various teas. Taking black tea as an example, the flavor wheel includes various liquor colors, aroma types, and small-leaf black tea and local cultivar black tea, all of which can find their exclusive characteristics on the flavor wheel.

For teas that have been graded after evaluation, the Tea Research and Extension Station will also create exclusive flavor wheels and flavor cards based on their aroma, liquor color and taste. In the future, farmers can use these on packaging, allowing consumers to know the tea's information at a glance and quickly find tea that suits them.

Three-party evaluation from industry, government and academia; evaluator qualifications also require multiple layers of vetting

One major feature of the TAGs classification system is that classification evaluators must span the three sectors of industry, government and academia. The three representatives for this organic Baozhong tea evaluation were: Su Yanshuo, Director of the Tea Research and Extension Station Wenshan Branch (government); Cai Zhixian of National Taitung Junior College's Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture (academia); and Cai Yongjin from Jingualiao's Qingyuan Tea Shop (industry).

Su Yanshuo stated that grading evaluation evaluators also go through multiple rounds of screening. Taking industry representative Cai Yongjin as an example, he first went through a written exam, and finally four candidates were shortlisted. The other three candidates unanimously agreed that Cai Yongjin was the most suitable. "Grading results need to be convincing, and evaluators are key. Only people everyone approves of can come to evaluate."

The evaluation criteria consist of four major items: appearance (20%), liquor color (20%), aroma (30%) and taste (30%). Tea leaf appearance should be tightly rolled and uniform, with a dark green color and luster; the brewed liquor color should be honey-green with a yellow tint, clear and translucent; the aroma should be uplifting and elegant, with floral and fruity notes; and the taste should be sweet, mellow, fresh and smooth with a lingering finish.

Conventional Baozhong tea has distinct floral notes; organic tea adds fruity and sweet aromas

Academic representative Cai Zhixian explained that Baozhong tea places primary importance on aroma. Conventional Baozhong tea has distinct floral notes, but for this evaluation of organic Baozhong tea, the standards are slightly different. "There were no restrictions on tea cultivars for the organic teas submitted this time, so the flavors expressed are rich." He stated that even if fruity or sweet aromas appear, they are included in the evaluation rather than directly penalized.

Besides aroma, another major difference between organic Baozhong tea and conventional Baozhong tea evaluation lies in the liquor color. Cai Zhixian stated that many conventional Baozhong teas are made from younger tea leaves, resulting in a greener liquor color, while organic tea grows for a longer period and, compared to tender leaves, has lower chlorophyll content, resulting in a more yellow liquor color.

Evaluator: This year's weather was unstable, but organic Baozhong tea from various regions still performed stunningly

This year, a total of 80 organic Baozhong tea entries participated in the evaluation. To prevent epidemic-related crowding, the venue was not open for tea farmers to watch; instead, it was livestreamed online. The evaluation process took approximately three and a half hours. The three evaluators first examined the tea leaf appearance, then smelled the aroma, and finally tasted the tea.

Su Yanshuo explained that this year's climate alternated between cold and hot. Tea plant growth slows when cold and accelerates when hot. This year, the stop-and-grow pattern occurred more than three times. What originally could grow into a "one bud three leaves" in about 20 days was extended to over 30 days. This difference caused the tea leaves to be on the older side, increasing the difficulty of tea production. "With the time extended, the later preservation period coincided with the rainy season, making both production and preservation even more difficult."

Evaluating from the consumer's perspective: good tea must pass through layer upon layer of testing

"The hardest part of the evaluation process is selecting the Gold Frog from the Silver Frogs." Cai Zhixian stated that each tea has different characteristics. The evaluation uses a uniform brewing method, with the purpose of amplifying each tea's shortcomings. Teas with fewer shortcomings can pass through layer upon layer of testing. The hardest part is none other than selecting the Gold Frog from the Silver Frogs. "When drinking each tea, you must mentally stand in the consumer's shoes and ask: 'Is this tea worth this price?'"

Cai Zhixian gave an example: award-winning teas can ultimately be sold at a better price. For the Bronze Frog Award, the winning tea sells for 4,000 yuan per jin. When you drink it, you must judge whether this tea is worth 4,000 yuan. "Is the aroma balanced enough, does the taste have a lingering finish, is it bitter or astringent - if you were the consumer, would you buy it?"

The evaluation results are out: one highest honor Emerald Frog Award was selected, along with 12 teas receiving the Gold Frog Award, 22 teas receiving the Silver Frog Award, and 26 teas receiving the Bronze Frog Award. Su Yanshuo stated that this year's Emerald Frog Award winner prevailed with a mellow tea body, deep aroma, sufficient lingering finish, and complete leaf shape. "Organic tea is prone to insect damage, so having such complete leaf shapes shows that the farmer's cultivation management is very thorough."

Five teas hit a home run: tea farmer Zheng Xinzhong takes home Emerald Frog, Gold Frog and Silver Frog

The Emerald Frog Award winner this time is Zheng Xinzhong of Sanxingshan Organic Tea Garden. "Even at the moment of the announcement, I couldn't believe it was actually me!" He explained that Baozhong tea is mostly made from Qingxin Oolong, but what he submitted was made from Cuiyu and Jinxuan, with completely different aroma, taste and mouthfeel. At the moment of winning, he first felt surprise, then immense excitement. In addition to the highest-rated Emerald Frog Award, he also won Gold Frog and Silver Frog Awards with other tea entries, making him arguably the best-performing farmer at the event.

"I grew up making tea since I was a child. My parents also ran an organic tea garden, and coming home meant making organic tea." Zheng Xinzhong stated that organic tea gardens are very difficult to cultivate, and pest and weed management requires great diligence. Su Yanshuo explained that Zheng Xinzhong's tea is not astringent even after long steeping, has balanced aroma, not a trace of bitterness, offers pineapple and melon-fruit notes on the palate, and has a mellow mouthfeel. "Organic tea is absolutely not inferior to conventional tea!"

Three key elements for good tea: tea leaves, water quality and water temperature; adjust to brew your own perfect cup

How do you brew Baozhong tea to bring out its best flavor? Cai Zhixian stated that the key to delicious tea lies in the tea leaves, water quality and water temperature. "You need to know the tea's character first. When buying tea, you can ask the tea farmer how they brew it."

Before buying tea, you can try drinking and smelling it to see if it's to your liking. When buying tea, you can also ask the seller how they brew it. "First ask what kind of water they use. Usually, mineral-rich mountain spring water makes tea especially flavorful."

If you want to smell different tea aromas and taste different mouthfeels, you can adjust based on temperature and time. Cai Zhixian stated that tea's aroma and taste are the combined result of all conditions, and brewing tea requires attention to many details. "To express floral notes, you can use water above 90°C; to smell fruity or sweet aromas, water below 90°C is better; if you want a fuller mouthfeel, brew for a longer time."

Complete list of winners:

Emerald Frog Award, 1 entry: 16,000 yuan per jin, 2,000 yuan per 2 liang (75 grams)
Zheng Xinzhong (Sanxingshan Organic Tea Garden (02)-26656142)

Gold Frog Award, 12 entries: 8,000 yuan per jin, 1,000 yuan per 2 liang (75 grams)
Zheng Xinzhong, 3 entries (Sanxingshan Organic Tea Garden (02)-26656142)
Chen Dinghong, 3 entries (Shifang Organic Tea Garden (02)2665-6104)
Chen Jinhuan, 2 entries (Zunshang Xishan Organic Tea Garden (02)2783-1860)
Yang Dongliang (New Taipei City Farmers' Association (Wenshan Farm) (02)2666-7512)
Zhan Zhengyi (Jinguan Organic Tea Garden 0966-878-756)
Chen Luhe (Lüguang Farm 0952-600-268)
Chen Shanjia (02)2665-7110

Silver Frog Award, 22 entries: 5,600 yuan per jin, 700 yuan per 2 liang (75 grams)
Zhan Zhengyi, 3 entries (Jinguan Organic Tea Garden 0966-878-756)
Wang Xutan, 3 entries (Wang Family Organic Tea Garden (02)2665-8124)
Chen Dinghong, 2 entries (Shifang Organic Tea Garden (02)2665-6104)
Su Yuyu, 2 entries (Dongcheng Tea Factory (02)2665-7343)
Zhuang Yujun, 2 entries (Shanbukü Tea Workshop (02)2790-3522)
Huang Yanfen, 2 entries (Jiayedì Organic Tea Garden (02)2665-6743)
Yu Sanhe (Sanhe Organic/Wild Tea 0910-415-115)
Zheng Xinzhong (Sanxingshan Organic Tea Garden (02)-26656142)
Zheng Jinhua (Qiyuan Organic Tea Garden (02)2665-6610)
Lin Yinghong (02)-2665-7077
Lin Liwei (Yulu Tea Garden (03)980-1111)
Yang Dongliang (New Taipei City Farmers' Association (Wenshan Farm) (02)2666-7512)
Chen Shanjia (02)2665-7110
Jingyuan Tea Farm

Bronze Frog Award, 26 entries: 4,000 yuan per jin, 500 yuan per 2 liang (75 grams)
Jingyuan Tea Farm, 4 entries
Zhong Zongbao, 2 entries (Qilixiang Organic Farm (02)2665-6595)
Li Jinrong, 2 entries (Lipin Organic Tea Garden 0919-199527)
Zhou Huihui, 2 entries (Tianran Tea House (02)2660-3762)
Chen Luhe, 2 entries (Lüguang Farm 0952-600-268)
Chen Tianjin (Tianjin Tea Garden (02)2783-5815)
Yu Qinming (Qinming Organic Tea Garden (02)2782-2264)
Xie Jintu (Qingxin Mingfang (02)2665-6692)
Yang Dongliang (New Taipei City Farmers' Association (Wenshan Farm) (02)2666-7512)
Zhang Zhengguang (Mingji Tea Garden 0932-647-230)
Zhan Zhengyi (Jinguan Organic Tea Garden 0966-878-756)
Yu Sanhe (Sanhe Wild Tea 0910-415-115)
Lin Yinghong (02)-2665-7077
Qiu Qiying (Zongkun Organic Tea Garden (02)2665-6743)
Huang Yanfen (Jiayedì Organic Tea Garden (02)2665-6743)
Weng Gao Meinv (Huliaotan Tea Garden (02)2665-6872)
Li Changjun (Gufang Organic Tea Garden 0918-771-713)
Wei Zhongcheng (Yixin Ecological Farm 0937-004-650)
Zhou Youtian 0921-902-848