What are the cultivation methods and precautions for potted Anthurium?
Anthurium cultivation methods and precautions
Care details
1. The yellowing of Anthurium leaves is mainly caused by root rot due to excessively low temperatures;
2. Excessive fertilizer and water, because applying too much fertilizer disrupts the metabolism of the flamingo flower;
3. Overwatering can also cause Anthurium leaves to turn yellow and affect their ornamental value;
4. Too much light will cause Anthurium leaves to turn yellow and lose their luster, and will also lead to slow growth, short petioles, small leaves and curling that does not spread out;
5. Vigorous growth without blooming is generally caused by placement in too dark a location and excessive nitrogen fertilizer.
The key to growing flamingo flower successfully in the north
The flamingo flower is not easy to grow well in ordinary northern homes; the following points should be noted in cultivation:
1. Except in winter, when it can be placed near a south window, it should be kept in a semi-shaded spot indoors in other seasons, avoiding direct strong light.
2. The suitable growing temperature is between 20-30°C. It begins dormancy after late autumn, but room temperature must not fall below 15°C; low temperatures should be avoided. High temperatures should also be avoided, as growth is poor under high temperatures.
3. Except in winter, it should be watered frequently to keep the potting soil moist. The flamingo flower likes relatively high air humidity, so the pot can be placed in a shallow tray containing pebbles and water, and the plant and surrounding floor should be sprayed with water frequently. After blooming, avoid splashing water on the flowers.
4. The potting soil can be made by mixing equal parts peat soil and pine needle soil, or pine needle soil can be used directly, and a small amount of decomposed horse hoof or slow-release tablet fertilizer can also be added. Preferably, water with cooled boiled water (low in calcium) or rainwater. The drainage hole at the bottom of the pot should be covered with a piece of tile to ensure smooth drainage. From March to August, apply a light fertilizer once every one to two weeks.
Precautions for Anthurium
1. Daily management of Anthurium
When Anthurium seedlings are transplanted into pots, the pots should be loosened regularly to maintain fertility. Placing Anthurium indoors in a spot facing the sun but without direct sunlight can both maintain temperature and avoid scorching the plant. In addition, Anthurium has high water requirements, so the roots and leaves must be kept moist and watering should be timely; normally the stems and leaves can be wiped frequently. Also, fertilization should be increased according to the growth needs of Anthurium, and attention should be paid to preventing pest and disease infestations.
2. The natural habits of Anthurium
Anthurium gets its name because its flowers resemble human palms. It belongs to the Araceae family and originates from the tropical rainforest regions of South America. The flowers of Anthurium are not large, its leaves are emerald green, and the flowers, like leaves lying on their sides, have a glossy sheen. The flower colors are numerous, mainly bright red, with many other colors such as pink and white.
Anthurium is a plant originally from the tropics. It likes warm, humid and sunny climates, has relatively high requirements for temperature and water, and prefers to grow in damp, warm environments. Anthurium is not suitable for outdoor planting because especially in summer the sun is too strong and will scorch it, so it is generally kept indoors or in flower greenhouses for cultivation. Anthurium grows best in fertile, loose soil with good drainage.
Key care points
The flower consists of a bright scarlet spathe and an orange-red spadix, with the spadix curled in a spiral, dazzling and graceful, giving a bright and enthusiastic impression. For potting, a mixed substrate of leaf mold (or peat soil), moss plus a small amount of garden soil, charcoal and superphosphate should be chosen. During the growing period, apply a light fertilizer combining nitrogen and phosphorus 1-2 times a month or carry out foliar top dressing. From October to March of the following year, watering should be properly controlled; at other times watering should be sufficient, otherwise flowering will be affected, but note that watering should alternate between dry and wet, and waterlogging in the pot must be strictly avoided, otherwise root rot is easily caused. The flamingo flower fears cold, and during overwintering the room temperature should preferably be kept above 16°C. Cold and damp conditions in winter will both cause root rot. The flamingo flower likes semi-shade and fears strong light, so in spring, summer and autumn attention should be paid to appropriate shading, and in summer 60% of sunlight needs to be blocked. In hot seasons it is best to place the pot on a sand tray filled with wet sandy soil for care. In winter, keep it indoors near a south window. No shading is needed. To maintain relatively high humidity, spray water on the leaves 2-3 times a day and also sprinkle water on the ground. Generally, repot once every 1-2 years in early spring from March to April. To propagate the flamingo flower, division is the main method, mostly combined with repotting in early spring.
Anthurium is quite sensitive to temperature. The suitable growing temperature is 14-35°C, the optimum temperature is 19-25°C, and the day-night temperature difference is 3-6°C, that is, preferably 21-25°C during the day and about 19°C at night. At such temperatures, the absorption and accumulation of nutrients by Anthurium are favored, which is extremely beneficial for growth and flowering.
Anthurium is a flower variety relatively sensitive to salinity, so the pH value of the substrate should be kept between 5.2-6.1 as much as possible, which is most suitable for Anthurium growth. If the pH value is too low, the flower stems become shorter, which reduces ornamental value. Tap water is suitable for planting Anthurium, but it is expensive; natural rainwater is the best water source in Anthurium cultivation. Potted Anthurium has different water requirements at different growth and development stages.
According to Dutch cultivation experience, root fertilization of Anthurium is much more effective than foliar top dressing. This is because the leaf surface of Anthurium has a waxy layer that does not allow good absorption of fertilizer. Liquid fertilizer application should follow the principle of regular and quantitative application. In autumn, a cycle of generally 3-4 days is used; if the temperature is high, depending on the dryness and wetness of the substrate in the pot, fertilizer water can be applied once every 2-3 days; in summer, fertilizer water can be applied once every 2 days, and when the temperature is high, water can be applied one extra time; in autumn, fertilizer water is generally applied once every 5-7 days.
Anthurium grows in a cycle of leaf→flower→leaf→flower. The inflorescence is formed in the axil of each leaf. This results in the same yield of flowers and leaves, and the most important factor in the difference in yield is light. If there is too little light, the plant also produces very little assimilate under the influence of photosynthesis; when light is too strong, some leaves of the plant will warm up, possibly causing leaf discoloration, scorching or withered tips. Therefore, whether light management is successful or not directly affects how much assimilate Anthurium produces and the quality of the later product.
Anthurium growth requires relatively high temperatures and quite high humidity, so high temperature and high humidity are favorable for Anthurium growth. Temperature and humidity are closely related. When the temperature is below 20°C, maintaining the indoor natural environment is sufficient; when the temperature reaches above 28°C, a sprinkler system or misting system must be used to increase the indoor relative air humidity, so as to create a high-temperature, high-humidity growing environment for Anthurium. However, in winter, even if the greenhouse temperature is relatively high, excessive cooling and humidifying should not be used, because overly wet leaves at night actually reduce the plant's cold resistance, making it prone to frost damage and unfavorable for safe overwintering.