Detailed Explanation of Bottling Methods and Care Techniques for Hydroponic Flowers

Successfully acclimatized hydroponic flowers can be placed in a glass container matching the planting basket for still-water cultivation. The water in the glass container should generally cover 70% of the root length, leaving a small portion of the roots exposed to the air. Add slow-release fertilizer needed for plant growth to the outer pot, generally plant nutrient slow-release granules with an N-P-K ratio of 30-20-20 (effective for more than half a year).

①Container selection. Pay attention to the container size to ensure the plant has some space for elongation growth. In addition, because there are many roots but little water, secreted accumulations quickly make the water turbid, and at high temperatures it is prone to deterioration and odor, and may even breed bacteria leading to root rot. If the container is too small, the roots cannot stretch out naturally, which also affects the aesthetics of the arrangement. From an aesthetic point of view, after bottling, the best ratio of the space occupied by the roots to the reserved space is the golden ratio, which is 4:6.

②Bottling operation. The root systems of plants induced by hydroponics are mostly white, tender water roots. Be as careful as possible during bottling to prevent mechanical injury that causes root rot and affects growth. Usually, a planting cup or planting basket is used during induction, so after induction there is no need to remove the cup and replant. Move it as little as possible, directly and carefully place the planting cup or planting basket into the container or vase, then arrange the roots well and let them stretch freely. Note that the optimal ratio of the exposed root portion to the submerged root portion is also 4:6.

③Daily care.

Scientific placement: Hydroponic flowers differ from soil-cultured flowers in that the roots must not receive direct light, otherwise root inhibition or photo-oxidative damage to the roots may occur, causing the roots to turn black, and in severe cases the roots will rot and lose activity. Indoor foliage plants are generally placed in home environments such as office desks, coffee tables, halls, beside computers, kitchens, and dining tables, while sun-loving plants are placed on balconies or in front of windows where light transmission is good but there is no direct light.

Regular water changes: When changing the water, lift the plant and set it aside gently, then pour clean water into the bottle or container up to the standard golden-ratio water level, add a few drops of special care solution for hydroponic flowers, and finally put the plant back and arrange the roots well. If some roots are found to be too long, appropriate pruning and shortening can be done. Trim overly long roots, blackened aged roots, and rotten roots once, which helps stimulate root cycling and grow new roots.

Pest and disease control: Although there are few pests and diseases indoors, adverse environments can sometimes cause leaf spot disease and red spider mite damage on some plant leaves. In a home care environment, it is not advisable to use chemical pesticides. Detergent water, chili water, and garlic juice can be used against red spider mites, acetic acid or cleaner can inhibit bacteria, and spraying leaves with beer liquid can strengthen seedlings.

Rejuvenation measures: Plants kept in a low-light environment for a long time will have their growth affected, but placing them directly under direct light for care will also damage the roots. Therefore, the roots can be wrapped with black cloth to prevent direct light from damaging them, and then the plant can be placed on a balcony for care for a period of time. During care, weakly growing branches and branches with low photosynthetic efficiency can be pruned appropriately, then nutrient solution can be poured into the planting cup or planting basket, allowing the plant to recover and grow for a period of time before moving it back indoors for care.