Correct pruning methods for flowers and common pruning techniques for bonsai

Cut in the right place. For pruning flowers, the most important thing is to cut in the right place, so that the goal can be achieved. Generally speaking, the pruning position is above a node with a branch, that is, the bud point, so that the new bud can sprout directly.

Pruning time. For pruning flower bonsai, pay attention to the time. It is generally done during the growing season. After pruning flower bonsai, fertilization is needed.

1. Generally speaking, herbaceous flowers can be pruned at any time.

2. Deciduous plants are generally pruned when the flowers and leaves fall and new buds are about to sprout. Such as maple and wisteria.

3. For woody plants that bloom seasonally, attention should be paid to pruning according to the season first. Such as camellia and azalea.

4. If it is a plant or flower that blooms all year round, it can be pruned at any time.

Common methods for pruning flowers. 1. Pinching, removing the terminal bud of a shoot tip is pinching. The effect of pinching is to remove apical dominance and promote the growth of side branches.

2. Thinning is completely cutting off branches from the base. It is mostly used to remove excess side branches and unevenly growing shoot tips, as well as dead branches, diseased and pest-damaged branches, weak branches, branches, densely growing branches and residual branches after flowering, so as to adjust the plant shape of ornamental plants.

3. Short pruning is cutting off a part of the shoot tip. For species that bloom on the current year's branches, short pruning can be done in # season to promote more side branches. For species that bloom on two-year-old branches, the branches can be shortened after flowering to make them send out new branches again. Such as geranium and pelargonium, whose growth vigor weakens after flowering, can be short-pruned at 2 to 3 buds from the base of the branch.

4. Bending branches is to change the growth direction and growth state of branches, thereby achieving the purpose of balancing branch growth or making branch distribution reasonable and creating a plant shape. Woody plants are often fixed by tying with ropes.

5. Bud removal is removing excess axillary buds, limiting the increase in the number of branches, and concentrating nutrients to supply the main bud.

6. Bud thinning. Some flowers such as dahlia, standard chrysanthemum and peony form more flower buds. After the buds appear, remove the flower buds in the leaf axils below the top.

7. Fruit thinning. For ornamental fruit flowers, after the flowers fade in early spring, they often bear a lot of fruit. In order to save nutrients, a certain number of deformed fruit and small fruit should be removed after physiological fruit drop in late May.

8. Leaf removal. In the growing season, especially in the later growth stage, yellow leaves, leaves damaged by diseases and pests, and excess leaves covering flowers and fruit can all be removed at any time.

Diseased and pest-damaged branches and leaves of flowers and plants must be pruned and burned. Branches with diseases and pests must be cut off and then burned.

Flowering plants need to have faded flowers removed. For flowering plants, after blooming, attention should be paid to removing faded flowers to avoid unnecessary nutrient loss.

Foliage plants can have old leaves and dead leaves pruned off. For some foliage plants, if there are old leaves, yellow leaves and dead branches, they should all be pruned off.

Common shaping methods for pruning flower bonsai. 1. Single-trunk style, keeping only one main trunk and no branches. Such as the plant shape of herbaceous plants like single-head large chrysanthemum and cup chrysanthemum, and the tree shape of woody plants such as southern magnolia and large-leaf privet.

2. Multi-trunk style, keeping several main branches, with one flower opening at the top of each branch, such as dahlia and multi-head peony.

3. Clump style. Through the plant's own tillering or repeated pinching and pruning, more side branches are produced, and the whole plant is low and clumping, with many flowers, such as herbaceous flowers and shrub flowers.

4. Cliff style. By attaching to a flower stand or wall, the branches of the whole plant extend and droop in one direction. It is mostly used for small vine varieties or potted plants.

5. Climbing style. It is mostly used for trailing flowers, making the branches attach to a wall or twine around a fence to grow, such as Boston ivy.

6. Creeping style, naturally creeping on the ground, making it cover the ground or rocks, such as Sedum, creeping juniper and nasturtium.

7. Trellis style. Through artificial guiding, the plant is made to climb onto a trellis of a certain shape to form an openwork flower arch or flower tunnel. It is mostly used for trailing flowers such as wisteria and honeysuckle.

8. Round-ball style. Through repeated pinching or pruning, dense side branches are formed, and then the protruding side branches are shortened, making the whole crown round or oblate, such as large-leaf boxwood and dragon juniper.

9. Figurative style. The whole plant is pruned or twisted into the shape of an animal or building, such as Chinese juniper and spiny juniper. In addition, there are other forms such as umbrella shape, pagoda shape, conical shape, weeping branch shape, inclined shape, horizontal style and curved trunk style, and so on.