Live-bent seabass is not fresher: a cruel misunderstanding, as stress actually lowers freshness
Text by Lin Yijun and Lin Peijun, reporters for Upstream and Downstream
Because consumers prefer to buy live seabass, "live-bent fish" is commonly seen in traditional fish markets, in which a nylon line is threaded through the lips of the barramundi and pulled to the tail end and tied tightly, making it convenient to select and keep fresh. However, research indicates that live-bending fish causes the seabass to feel pain, and the fish body is subjected to stress, which increases the amount of lactic acid released in the body, instead causing the fish meat quality to decline and even making it prone to spoilage.
The Taiwan Animal Society Research Association (hereinafter referred to as "the Association") today (the 4th) called on consumers to refuse to buy this animal-cruelty "live-bent fish," and demanded that the Council of Agriculture should, in accordance with the Animal Protection Act, ban operators from tying fish, actively begin drafting "animal welfare regulations for fish rearing, catching, transport, display and sale, stunning and slaughter," promote education and training, and educate consumers about fish animal welfare.
A reporter actually visited the fish market and found that indeed many seabass are sold in the form of "live-bent fish" (photo / Lin Peijun)
Live-bent fish, convenient for sale, can be seen in fish markets in both the north and south
Barramundi grows quickly and is also named for the golden-red glow in its pupils at night. According to statistics, there are four species of farmed seabass in Taiwan: barramundi, largemouth bass, seven-star seabass, and silverflower seabass. Taking the 107th year fish market trading volume as an example, barramundi was the largest category at 68%, with a total of 660 farming households across Taiwan.
"Live-bent fish" is a common mode of selling seabass in traditional markets, pulling the lips of the barramundi to the tail end with a nylon line and tying it tightly, causing the fish body to bend into a U shape. It is understood that this can extend the freshness period of barramundi by 8-12 hours. In addition, it is relatively convenient for fish vendors to sell, and consumers can conveniently and quickly select and carry it.
Donggang fish vendors said that tying live seabass can extend the fish's life by more than half a day, and tying them up also makes it convenient for customers to choose fish. In addition, customers all like fish with intact bodies and beautiful appearance. Tied fish will not jump, bump, or struggle and cause damage to the fish body, maintaining salability and a good price. Workers are experienced at tying fish, and the operation is not troublesome, so it has become a normal sales practice.
The Association: 3.45 million seabass are abused and tormented every year
According to statistics from the Council of Agriculture, there are 24 fish markets across Taiwan, of which 17 have barramundi trading records. The Taiwan Animal Society Research Association conducted telephone interviews and found that "live-bent fish" trading exists in markets in the north, central, and south.
With the 107th year barramundi trading volume at about 10.358 million fish, the Animal Society Research Association estimates that about 3.45 million seabass suffer this abuse and torment every year. The tied seabass, on the one hand, endure physical pain, and on the other, open and close their gill covers and mouths, struggling to breathe. Depending on the length of time vendors sell them, some even die only after 8-12 hours, or are untied and slaughtered only when a consumer selects them, which is completely "unnecessary suffering."
Scholars worry about declining meat quality and bacterial contamination; fish should be stunned and slaughtered after being caught
The practice of bending fish has been carried out for years, but this act has attracted the attention of relevant scholars, animal protection groups, and others. Chen Yumin, chief executive of the Association, said that scientific research has long confirmed that fish can feel pain, and also suffer from stress and fear. All steps before slaughter can cause stress in fish, affect fish meat quality, and cause nutrient loss. In fish that die from stress, the meat develops a bitter taste and is prone to spoilage, producing metabolites that cause a fishy smell.
Live-bent fish sold in the fish market (photo / Lin Peijun)
From the perspective of a professional fish veterinarian, Dr. Tony Wall, founder of the Scottish Fish Veterinary Group (FVG), said about this that pain and stress in fish cause the amount of lactic acid released in the fish body to become very high, leading to contamination of the fish meat and a decline in meat quality. Therefore, the meat quality of fish subjected to this practice will worsen.
He further explained that fish in a natural state would not have such a posture. Being tied and bent into a U shape will inevitably produce severe pain. In the process of threading the line through the fish's mouth, gills, and gill covers, the fish's gill covers are forced open, and the oxygen level slowly decreases. To ensure the seabass stays alive, vendors continuously sprinkle or soak them in water, which may further create a risk of contamination or bacterial infection of the fish body.
Huang Chihyang, associate professor in the Department of Aquaculture at National Taiwan Ocean University, said that seabass are very active, which is why they are specially handled in this way, and there is a widespread myth in the market that "live fish means fresh," which is why fish bending continues to exist. But nylon rope winding around bone plates and causing scales to fall off will allow bacteria and microorganisms in the environment to invade. The best method is to stun and slaughter after catching.
Fish vendors develop sales models in response to consumers who "love to buy live fish"
Tsai Baoxing, director-general of the Liuqiu Fishermen's Association, said that the effect of tying them up is only to extend the fish's life and make the fish appear to live longer. He believes that many fish vendors are merely responding to consumers' notion of "loving to buy live fish" and "thinking live fish is fresher," catering to consumer shopping trends. Otherwise, cold chain technology is already very mature now, and tying the line equals adding an extra work procedure. Operators probably do not think tying the line is necessary either.
Lin Hanchou, director-general of the Donggang Fishermen's Association, said that not only barramundi, but all seabass are tied when sold, and milkfish used to be tied as well. In recent years there have been too many milkfish, so other handling methods were adopted instead. Now only retail seabass are tied, while seabass sold in whole batches are not tied. In terms of transactions, the volume sold in whole batches is greater than the retail model.
Donggang fish vendors said that everyone wants to eat milkfish after it has been processed. Some people like the fish skin, some the belly, and some different parts of the meat, so it is only bought after being cut and processed. But seabass is used for soup, and consumers usually prefer to buy whole live fish.
According to the Association's interviews at three fish markets in Hsinchu, Miaoli, and Dounan, they said: selling only chilled seabass and not live fish is equally acceptable to consumers. Many fish vendors said: "Many customers think fish are alive just because they are tied up, but those fish have been dead for a long time!" Some vendors tie up fish after they die, making consumers think they are alive.
Controversy over whether it violates the Animal Protection Act: handling meat? animal cruelty?
Does fish bending violate the Animal Protection Act? Wu Jin'an, captain of the animal rescue team of the Taipei City Animal Protection Office, said that he had never received a report about fish bending, and that the application of the law would be controversial, because operators approach it from the angle of handling meat products rather than animal cruelty, unless fish are also included in enforcement regulations. Wu said that if it were included in enforcement for guidance and persuasion, Taipei City should have a chance to improve.
Lin Guoping, deputy director-general of the Fisheries Agency, said that the scope managed by the Fisheries Agency is the production end. Fish bending belongs to a traditional handling method at the sales end, and the farming end does not do this. Even seabass delivered in live fish trucks after leaving the water, or seabass used for processing, are not handled by fish bending.
Lin Guoping said that in recent years more and more people have spoken out on this issue, and the Fisheries Agency will soon invite industry, government, and academia to discuss and find a common solution strategy. In the future, it is expected to build a complete cold chain system, which can also improve concerns about animal welfare and hygiene in fish bending.