Detailed Guide to Flower Growing Soil Disinfection Methods and Transplanting and Planting Techniques

Planting includes transplanting and permanent planting. The method is the same; permanent planting means the plant is not moved again after planting, while transplanting is a cultivation measure carried out before permanent planting, changing the planting distance for the plant to suit its growth needs.

1. Transplanting

Transplanting is done to enlarge the row and plant spacing of seedlings of various sizes, so that the young plants obtain sufficient nutrients, light and air. At the same time, the main root of the seedling is cut during transplanting, which can cause the seedling to produce more lateral roots, forming a well-developed root system that benefits its growth.

Before transplanting, sown seedlings generally need to be thinned, removing those that are too dense, weak or diseased. The seedlings removed by thinning can also be planted elsewhere. For field-grown seedlings, the first transplanting is done when 4 to 5 true leaves appear. For seedlings sown in pots, transplanting often begins once 1 to 2 true leaves appear. The row and plant spacing for transplanting depends on the size of the seedlings, their growth rate, and how long they will remain in the bed after transplanting. The preparation of the seedling bed for transplanted seedlings is basically the same as for a sowing bed. The soil at transplanting time should be neither too dry nor too wet; generally transplanting should be done when the soil is dry, but if the soil is too dry, the seedlings easily wilt, so the bed should be watered the day before planting, and transplanting done once the soil particles have absorbed water and swelled and no longer stick to the hand. When the soil is wet, it is not only inconvenient to work with, but the soil also cakes after planting, which is unfavorable for seedling growth. When transplanting, do not press the soil too firmly, to avoid injuring the roots; when watering, the soil particles settle with the water and can then closely contact the root system. Transplanting is best done on a windless, cloudy day; if the weather is clear, the light strong and the heat intense, it is best to transplant in the evening. Before transplanting, the varieties must be clearly distinguished to avoid mixing them up. When digging up seedlings, cut the main root without injuring the fibrous roots, and transplant with as much root-protecting soil as possible. Digging up seedlings and planting must be coordinated, digging and planting as you go. If the wind is strong and evaporation intense, the dug-up seedlings should be covered for shade. The transplanting hole should be slightly larger, so the roots can extend freely. The planting depth should match the original planting depth, or be 1 to 2 cm deeper. Too shallow makes the plant prone to lodging; too deep leads to poor development. After planting, water thoroughly immediately, and water a second time to ensure a sufficient amount. In dry weather, water while planting. In summer, shade the plants in the early stage after transplanting to reduce evaporation and avoid wilting.

2. Permanent planting

Permanent planting includes planting large seedlings after transplanting, potted seedlings, stored bulbs, as well as perennial flowers and woody flowers, in a place where they will no longer be moved. Before permanent planting, the soil structure should be improved according to the needs of the plant, the pH adjusted, and the drainage conditions improved; most plants need fertile, loose and well-drained soil. Fertilizer can be mixed in when preparing the soil or applied at the bottom of the hole after digging it. The plant spacing used at permanent planting should be determined according to the size of the flower plant when mature, or according to the planting design requirements. When digging up seedlings, root-protecting soil should generally be kept; soil that is too wet or too dry is unsuitable for digging up seedlings, and how much soil is kept depends on the size of the root system. Deciduous tree species planted during the dormant period do not need to be dug with soil. Evergreen flowering shrubs and species that are difficult to transplant must be dug with a complete ball of soil, and the soil ball must be tied firmly with straw rope. When permanent planting, a hole should be opened; the hole should be larger and deeper than the root system or soil ball of the seedling to be planted. Lift the seedling so the base of the stem is near the soil surface, and set it upright into the hole. Then shovel soil from around the hole into the hole until it is about 2/3 full, shake the seedling so that the soil particles closely contact the root system, then press the soil firmly around the outer edge of the root system, and finally fill the hole level with loose soil so that it is level with the ground and slightly concave. After planting, water immediately 2 times. After planting herbaceous flower seedlings, water again the next day. Bulbous flowers generally do not need watering in the early stage of planting; if it is too dry, then water once thoroughly. When permanent planting large perennial flowers and woody flowers, root pruning should be carried out at the same time; damaged roots, rotten roots and dead roots must all be cut away. After permanent planting large tree seedlings, supports should also be set up, or ropes arranged in three diagonal directions, to prevent them from toppling.