High-yield cultivation techniques for edible fungi and five factors affecting the emergence rate of flower seeds

1. Inadequate seed treatment. Different flower seeds should be treated with different seed treatment methods. Seeds that germinate easily can be soaked; for example, Salvia splendens seeds can be soaked in warm water at room temperature of 40°C for a day and a night, rinsed clean, and then sown. For hard seeds, such as Asparagus setaceus, peony, Murraya paniculata, Lagerstroemia indica, and Daphne odora, it is best to first soak them in hot water at 40°C for about 48 hours before sowing them into potting soil; after 20 to 30 days they will sprout and grow. For species with a short dormancy period that germinate easily, such as Sorbaria sorbifolia and Cercis chinensis, soaking the seeds in warm water at 40°C-60°C for 24-48 hours allows direct sowing. Some flower seeds require a certain period of low-temperature treatment to promote after-ripening and break the dormancy of the seed embryo so they can germinate, such as lilac, wintersweet, and some herbaceous flowers sown in autumn. Some flowers have the characteristic of double dormancy of the radicle and hypocotyl, meaning their radicle must go through a high-temperature stage of 25°C-32°C for 1 to 2 months or longer to break dormancy, such as the seeds of Chionanthus retusus, Viburnum, and peony.

2. Ignoring the optimal germination temperature for seeds. In addition to certain moisture conditions, the germination of dry seeds must also have a certain optimal temperature. For example, the optimal germination temperature for Lobularia maritima of the Brassicaceae family must be 5°C-20°C, the optimal germination temperature for Gerbera jamesonii must be 20°C-25°C, and the optimal germination temperature for Primula must be within the range of 15°C-18°C. If the temperature is too high or too low, it will affect the emergence rate of flowers and may even cause seeds to rot, greatly reducing the germination rate and seedling survival rate.

3. Unreasonable sowing time. Seeds that are large, have a hard outer coat, or contain oil, such as the seeds of Chinese rose, rose, pomegranate, kumquat, and Magnolia grandiflora, are suitable for sowing in autumn. Seeds that are relatively small and have a thin, loose outer coat, such as chrysanthemum, Asparagus setaceus, Impatiens balsamina, Lagerstroemia indica, and Campsis grandiflora, are suitable for sowing in late spring. Seeds that require high temperatures to germinate should be sown promptly after maturity; for example, Cyclamen, Pericallis hybrida, and Hippeastrum should be sown in early summer.

4. Problems with sowing quality. Flower sowing has two forms, open-field sowing and pot sowing. Either way requires loose, airy soil with fine particles and good drainage. Using fertile soil rich in humus nutrients with moderate acidity and alkalinity is relatively good and helps seeds emerge. Specific sowing methods include broadcast sowing, row sowing, and hole sowing. Before sowing, water thoroughly, and after sowing cover with plastic film to prevent the soil from becoming too dry and affecting seed germination and emergence. The sowing depth is generally preferably 2.5 times the diameter of the flower seed.

5. Ignoring the influence of light. After flower seeds are sown, appropriate light can increase soil temperature and induce seed germination. This is especially important for seeds to break through the seed coat and send out roots and sprouts. This not only affects the emergence rate of the seeds, but is also directly related to whether strong, healthy seedlings can be grown. Therefore, from sowing to the seedling transplanting stage, the light requirements for flower growth should be met as much as possible, and the light intensity should be a gradual transition from shade to weak light and then to natural light.