Fertilizing flowers requires matching the right fertilizer to the symptoms; fertilization techniques and methods for edible fungi

1. Urea and ammonium sulfate are quick-acting nitrogen fertilizers with high nutrient strength and fast results, but they do not last long. Urea is alkaline, suitable for flowers in the north; ammonium sulfate converts to acidic when applied to soil, suitable for flowers in the south. When using it, it is best to dilute it with 1000 to 1500 times water and then water it on; do not broadcast it in the pot, otherwise the flowers and trees will be "burned to death" by too much application.

2. Superphosphate is a quick-acting phosphorus fertilizer with a slightly acidic reaction and relatively mild fertilizer strength. When using it, it can be mixed with culture soil at 1:100, or scattered into flower gardens and flower beds before planting and used as a base fertilizer after plowing. For topdressing, first add 30 to 100 times water, soak for a day and night, then take the clear liquid on top and water it on.

3. Potassium dihydrogen phosphate is an advanced quick-acting phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, odorless and tasteless, with remarkable fertilizer effect, and has a significant effect on the growth of ornamental flowers such as chrysanthemums, Chinese roses, dahlias, and kumquats. When applying, it should be dissolved in 500 to 1000 times water for dilution.

4. Boric acid and boron have a significant effect on promoting flower bud differentiation, developing flower buds, and preventing fruit drop. Before and after bud formation, spray the flower plants several times with a 2000 to 2500 times boric acid dilution.

5. Ferrous sulfate When cultivating southern acidic-soil flowers in the north, the leaves often turn yellow and fall off. To prevent leaf yellowing, regularly water with a 500 times diluted ferrous sulfate solution, once every 15 to 20 days. (He Yong, Shimen County Agriculture Bureau)