A Detailed Guide to Succulent Planting Methods, Easy for Beginners to Pick Up
Succulents look especially adorable, with thick leaves and plump stems, making them the ultimate "cute stars" of the plant world. So do you know how to plant succulents? Below we will look at succulent planting methods.
Succulent Planting Methods
The growing medium should be loose, breathable, and well-draining, yet with a certain water-retention capacity, and neutral or slightly acidic. For highland globular types (Rebutia, Echinocereus, and Gymnocalycium) and Ariocarpus, a little more rice-hull ash and small-grained weathered rock can be added. For tall columnar species, coarse quartz sand can be mixed in to stabilize the plant.
Transplanting and planting should generally be done during the recovery period just after the plant's dormancy ends. Roots should be trimmed before planting. After root trimming, let the plant dry for a few days, then plant it in moist growing medium. After planting, provide appropriate shade and do not rush to water; do not fertilize within one month.
Regulation of temperature and light: cacti and succulents generally prefer warmth and a large day-night temperature difference. Except for epiphytic cacti and Haworthia species, light should be abundant but soft. For this reason, apart from a few flat-stemmed segmented species, tall columnar species, and certain Agave plants, they should generally be cultivated in a greenhouse year-round. Epiphytic types should be shaded except in winter; in summer, combined with cooling, the shade level should be 50% to 70%. Although Epiphyllum and Disocactus have a certain cold tolerance, keeping them warm in winter favors blooming the following year. Hylocereus, grown in large quantities for use as rootstock, is not cold-tolerant; in winter it must be kept at at least 5°C and given full sunlight. Most terrestrial cacti grow most vigorously at 28°C to 35°C during the day and 10°C to 15°C at night. When indoor temperatures are often above 35°C to 38°C, growth stalls, and some species of highland globular types and hairy columnar types are also very prone to rot. Therefore, cooling is necessary, but too much light should not be reduced as if treating epiphytic types just to lower the temperature. Most terrestrial types, when the potting soil is kept dry in winter, can withstand low temperatures of 2°C or even 0°C, but must not be directly exposed to frost or snow. Melocactus species native to the Caribbean region and globular species that bloom in winter require higher temperatures. Summer-growing succulents can basically have their temperature regulated by referring to terrestrial cacti. Their light requirements are relatively lower, and some species with enlarged stem bases are not cold-tolerant, so higher temperatures should be maintained in winter. Winter-growing succulents need ventilation and cooling to stay cool during their summer dormancy, and in winter they require ample sunlight, with the minimum temperature maintained above 7°C.
Watering and fertilizing should be carried out according to the plant's growth state. Whether a species is dormant in winter or dormant in summer, watering into the pot must stop during dormancy. However, summer-dormant species must have water exposed in walkways and other places to maintain a certain air humidity. For plants in vigorous growth, their water needs should be fully met. Small seedlings should be watered more, large globular plants less (referring to frequency); terrestrial types should be watered less, epiphytic types more; during bud formation and blooming, water more, and after flowers fade and fruit drops, water less; plants with many thin leaves should be watered more, and those with thick few leaves less. Fertilizing should be done during vigorous growth and bud formation. Organic fertilizer must be fully decomposed. When applying chemical fertilizer, the nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium ratio should be 5:15:10 or 5:10:10, and a small amount of trace elements should be mixed in. It is better to fertilize lightly than heavily, and if needed, apply several times. Plants with damaged roots, poor growth, or wounds on stems and leaves must not be fertilized.
Pest and disease control is mainly based on prevention. First, the environment must be clean and tidy. Incoming plants must be strictly checked, and only placed in the greenhouse when confirmed free of pests and diseases. Concentrated pesticide spraying in the greenhouse during the three periods of early winter, early spring, and before the plum rain season yields twice the result with half the effort. In addition, disinfecting the growing medium has a very good preventive effect. Commonly used agents mainly include two categories: fungicides for disease prevention and treatment (such as carbendazim, thiophanate-methyl, chlorothalonil, zineb, etc.) and insecticides (such as omethoate, dicofol, malathion, fenvalerate, etc.), which can be applied according to the symptoms. The concentration of the agents must be strictly controlled according to the instructions, especially insecticides; slightly too high a concentration causes phytotoxicity, and Obregonia denegrii and some Euphorbiaceae succulents are especially sensitive to this. Spraying must be repeated several times to be effective (with 2 days in between). After using the same chemical twice, switch to another; long-term use of one pesticide easily leads to resistance.
Finally, let us look at what to do when succulents have root rot.
1. Causes of root rot:
To a certain extent, succulent root rot is caused by overwatering or excessive fertilizing, leading to root decay. Of course, the causes of succulent root rot are many-sided; a single-type soil can also cause rot. If the soil is breathable, excess water will flow away and will not cause waterlogging, especially during the rainy summer season. If too much water is poured, it will to a certain extent cause oxygen deficiency in the plant roots and lead to rot. Another reason is poor ventilation after watering. In summer, loosening the soil and letting it breathe can help somewhat. In addition, using "Tree Guard General" together with Genshitong capsules as a root drench can effectively prevent and control rot disease.
2. Solutions:
1. Pull out the succulent, wash the roots, and cut off all moldy parts.
2. Apply carbendazim to the wounds and moldy areas, then let them dry for about three days.
3. Re-root the treated succulent. It can be placed at the mouth of a bottle, with water below but not touching the roots, to promote rooting; it can also be replanted in granular soil, such as akadama soil or kanuma soil.
4. Place the planted succulent, or the one at the bottle mouth, in a bright indoor spot, but not in direct sun or scorching exposure, and pay attention to ventilation. Just after planting, do not water immediately; wait until it has rooted and gradually stabilized before watering. Next, observe carefully. If nothing unexpected happens, it will re-root and grow in about one to three weeks.
In addition, after the plant has rooted, do not rush to water; the soil should maintain permeability. Also, watering should be carried out according to the plant's growth state. Whether a species is dormant in winter or dormant in summer, watering into the pot must stop during dormancy. However, summer-dormant species must have water exposed in walkways and other places to maintain a certain air humidity. For plants in vigorous growth, their water needs should be fully met. Small seedlings should be watered more, large globular plants less (referring to frequency); terrestrial types should be watered less, epiphytic types more; during bud formation and blooming, water more, and after flowers fade and fruit drops, water less; plants with many thin leaves should be watered more, and those with thick few leaves less. At the same time, fertilizing should be done during vigorous growth and bud formation.
If too much water is poured, it will to a certain extent cause oxygen deficiency in the plant roots and lead to rot. Another reason is poor ventilation after watering. In summer, loosening the soil and letting it breathe can help somewhat. In addition, using "Tree Guard General" together with Genshitong capsules as a root drench can effectively prevent and control rot disease.
2. Solutions:
1. Pull out the succulent, wash the roots, and cut off all moldy parts.
2. Apply carbendazim to the wounds and moldy areas, then let them dry for about three days.
3. Re-root the treated succulent. It can be placed at the mouth of a bottle, with water below but not touching the roots, to promote rooting; it can also be replanted in granular soil, such as akadama soil or kanuma soil.
4. Place the planted succulent, or the one at the bottle mouth, in a bright indoor spot, but not in direct sun or scorching exposure, and pay attention to ventilation. Just after planting, do not water immediately; wait until it has rooted and gradually stabilized before watering. Next, observe carefully. If nothing unexpected happens, it will re-root and grow in about one to three weeks.
In addition, after the plant has rooted, do not rush to water; the soil should maintain permeability. Also, watering should be carried out according to the plant's growth state. Whether a species is dormant in winter or dormant in summer, watering into the pot must stop during dormancy. However, summer-dormant species must have water exposed in walkways and other places to maintain a certain air humidity. For plants in vigorous growth, their water needs should be fully met. Small seedlings should be watered more, large globular plants less (referring to frequency); terrestrial types should be watered less, epiphytic types more; during bud formation and blooming, water more, and after flowers fade and fruit drops, water less; plants with many thin leaves should be watered more, and those with thick few leaves less. At the same time, fertilizing should be done during vigorous growth and bud formation.