What are the key points of rose planting techniques? Explained clearly in one article
"Rose" is a perennial woody plant with a long production cycle. Cuttings planted once can be harvested for 2-3 years, and grafted seedlings can be harvested for 5-6 years. To obtain high-quality, high-yield, and high-benefit cut flowers, the soil for planting "roses" must have good physical and chemical properties during cultivation. Let's take a closer look at what rose planting techniques are like.
Rose planting techniques
1. Watering Roses are relatively drought-tolerant but not moisture-tolerant. When watering, follow the principle of watering when dry and stopping when wet, and water thoroughly when watering. Pay attention to irrigation in the dry season; drought will reduce flower yield and lower flower quality. In the rainy season, prevent waterlogging and drain water to avoid root rot. In spring, summer, and autumn, if the weather is clear, water every other day. Generally, from bud break until growth reaches 54 cm, fertilizer and water must be supplied sufficiently. For potted roses, water once every 2 days in the early growth stage, and around flowering, water only after the potting soil dries. During the flowering period of roses, watering should be controlled.
3. Pruning and branch trimming Roses are perennial flowers. After the flowering period, pruning and branch trimming should be carried out to maintain a good plant shape and growth vigor. Cut the flowering branches to 1/2 of their length, and also cut off dead branches, diseased branches, leggy branches, and tangled branches together. Properly pruned roses will grow new branches, flower buds will form on the new branches, and they will bloom again.
"Rose" production mostly uses the bending-branch cultivation method. The cultivation method is single-bed, double-row cultivation, with a plant spacing of 12 cm and a row spacing of 50 cm, planting 5000-6000 plants per mu. Greenhouse cultivation can be planted all year round. When planting, plant along a drawn line to ensure that the seedlings in the planting rows are straight, which is beneficial for management. The planting depth should be slightly deeper than the cutting depth, but the soil must not cover the main bud of the seedling. Seedlings from modern factory production have a short transplant recovery period and establish quickly.
After field planting, water thoroughly in time to settle the roots. When planting in high-temperature weather, pay attention to shading and cooling and spray water on the leaves. Within one week after planting, fully ensure that the root soil and surface soil are moist, spray water on the leaves during the day, and provide appropriate shade; after 7 days, gradually reduce leaf spraying, but keep the surface soil moist, and spray fungicides such as carbendazim or chlorothalonil for one disease control treatment; after 15 days, gradually reduce soil watering, then water timely according to the dry and wet conditions of the soil, keep the soil moist, and begin using a drip irrigation system; after 30 days, enter normal management.
1. Soil The planting soil requires loose, well-aerated soil rich in organic matter, slightly acidic, and with granular structure.
2. Temperature The suitable temperature for rose growth is 22-25 degrees during the day, not exceeding 35 degrees, and maintained at 12-15 degrees at night. High temperature (>= 30°C) will cause temporary wilting. Although it will not cause death, the plant will experience physiological disorder, seriously affecting growth and greatly affecting the next stage of growth and development. At the same time, the number of petals decreases, forming open-centered flowers.
3. Light Roses originated in temperate zones and like sunlight. They grow poorly in shady places. More than 6 hours of light per day is required for normal growth and flowering, but in the high-temperature summer season, this can be reduced to 4-5 hours.
4. Humidity The relative humidity should preferably be 65%-70%. Low humidity (<=40%) affects flower color and can even cause scorching of the outer petals, and is suitable for the occurrence and spread of red spider mites and lepidopteran pests.
Roses are mainly propagated by division, and can also be propagated by layering and cuttings.
Division propagation One year before division, apply sufficient fertilizer near the root zone of the mother plant and water it, while keeping the soil loose and moist to promote abundant root suckering. Because roses have a very strong tillering ability, after each new branch grows, the mother branch easily withers, so tender branches near the root zone must be transplanted elsewhere in time so that the mother branch can still grow vigorously. Therefore, every year from November to December, after the plants shed their leaves, or in February of the following year when buds just begin to sprout, vigorous new plants growing beside the mother plant can be dug out from large clumps, with 2-3 stems per clump, and planted separately with roots. After planting, cut the stem at 20-25 cm above the soil surface. After 2-3 years of cultivation, they can form clumps and bloom.
Cutting propagation Before budding in early spring, select vigorous 1-year-old branches free of pests and diseases, cut them into cuttings about 20 cm long, insert them obliquely into a cutting bed made of new river sand at a depth of 12-14 cm, compact and water, and regularly maintain the temperature of the sand bed. Roots form after about 30 days, and they are transplanted after sprouting. Sand bed cuttings heal and root relatively easily, but they need to be placed in a sunny spot in a greenhouse or in an arched plastic shed in the field for cutting, and management work must be meticulous. Softwood cuttings are generally carried out in the plum rain season. Take semi-mature branches, cut the middle and lower parts into cuttings about 20 cm long, with 2-3 nodes and buds, insert obliquely into soil, compact and water, and transplant after rooting and sprouting; hardwood cuttings are mostly carried out during the growing season from September to November.
Layering propagation In the plum rain season from June to August each year, select vigorous current-year branches, bend them into the soil, notch the buried part, insert a clod of soil into the wound, bury it in soil, fix it with a bamboo fork or tree fork, leave the branch tip exposed above the ground, and keep the soil moist. Roots can form in 2-3 months, and the following spring they can be separated from the mother plant and planted separately.
Cutting propagation Before budding in early spring, select vigorous 1-year-old branches free of pests and diseases, cut them into cuttings about 20 cm long, insert them obliquely into a cutting bed made of new river sand at a depth of 12-14 cm, compact and water, and regularly maintain the temperature of the sand bed. Roots form after about 30 days, and they are transplanted after sprouting. Sand bed cuttings heal and root relatively easily, but they need to be placed in a sunny spot in a greenhouse or in an arched plastic shed in the field for cutting, and management work must be meticulous. Softwood cuttings are generally carried out in the plum rain season. Take semi-mature branches, cut the middle and lower parts into cuttings about 20 cm long, with 2-3 nodes and buds, insert obliquely into soil, compact and water, and transplant after rooting and sprouting; hardwood cuttings are mostly carried out during the growing season from September to November.