How to Grow Roses and Tips to Extend the Life of Cut Flowers
When it comes to roses, no one is unfamiliar with them, because their scent and flower colors are always unforgettable. How do you grow roses? Roses like plenty of sunlight, tolerate cold and drought, and prefer well-drained, loose, fertile loam or light loam; they grow poorly and bloom badly in clay loam. Next, let us learn about how to grow roses together!
How to Grow Roses
Roses are easy to propagate and cultivate. Propagation is mostly done by sowing, division, and cuttings. Sowing must be done in autumn, and the seeds should undergo sand storage treatment. Sand storage method: mix sand with a small amount of soil, moisten it with water, using the standard that it holds together when squeezed in the hand and crumbles into grains when released. Then wash the seeds and mix them into the sand. In a sunny or semi-shaded spot, dig a trench 60 cm wide and 80 cm deep running east to west, bury the sand mixed with seeds inside it, and leave air holes. Dig them out in early spring of the following year; seeds with a crack in the coat are best for planting. Division propagation can be done in both spring and autumn, and autumn is better.
Separate 1-2 year old seedlings from the old plant with part of the roots; it is even better if the wounds can be disinfected, and they root very easily. Cuttings are mostly taken in July-August. Choose vigorous, well-filled two-year-old branches, cut 15-20 cm long sections as cuttings, each cutting must have at least three leaf buds, with the lower end cut into a slanted horseshoe shape and the upper end cut flat. Both pot cuttings and bed cuttings are fine. After cutting, shade them, protect them from strong sun, and sprinkle water frequently to maintain a certain humidity and temperature. In about one month they will root and become new plants, and after one year they can be transplanted.
Roses like light and sun, and tolerate severe cold and drought; in northern winters they do not need special protection against freezing. As long as there is no severe drought, they can grow without watering (referring to field planting). They are not strict about soil; generally, fairly fertile soil is enough for vigorous growth, lush branches and leaves, and good blooming. In summer, fertilize frequently, once every 15-20 days, and water promptly after fertilizing to prevent burning the seedlings. In autumn, prune to prevent excessive vegetative growth, which affects blooming and the beauty of the plant shape. Roses are often troubled by aphids, so pay attention to control.
Rose cultivation is not strict about soil, but neutral-alkaline or slightly [alkaline] soil is most suitable, and slightly acidic soil is also acceptable. Therefore, roses should be planted in fertile loam in fields and field edges with good ventilation, sunlight, irrigation, and drainage. Roses dislike low-lying, easily waterlogged land; when waterlogged, the lower leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the whole plant may even die. Rose flower buds and sprouting require an average temperature above 7 degrees; from the early sprouting stage to the flowering stage, an effective accumulated temperature of 365 degrees is needed, generally depending on the temperature at the time. During the rose flowering period, dry hot winds and soil drought are most harmful; fields with irrigation conditions can be given one watering at the bud stage. During the process of growth and development, roses have two periods of stopped growth (generally June-July, called summer dormancy; November-December, called winter dormancy); at these times they do not send out branches, and the branches do not elongate. The summer dormancy period is the best pruning time for flower-harvesting seedlings; during the winter dormancy period, basal fertilizer can be applied and overwintering water can be given well, laying the foundation for stable and high yields of flower buds the following year.
The content above introduces the methods for growing roses in soil, but in our daily life, the more common method is growing them in water. Below, let us look at how to extend the life of cut flowers.
(1) Using water properly is the key to extending the life of cut flowers. When arranging flowers, choose clean river water, rainwater, or pond water close to room temperature. If using tap water, it must first be stored in a vat (bucket) for 1 day before use. At the same time, pay attention to changing the water frequently, promptly remove leftover flowers and leaves, and appropriately shorten the flower branches to help the material absorb water and extend the life of the fresh flowers.
(2) Put half a tablet of aspirin crushed into powder into 500 grams of water, or one tablet of vitamin C, or an appropriate amount of boric acid, sulfur, or 0.1% table salt; all have the effect of extending the flowering period.
(3) Prepare a sterile solution, add 1% alcohol and 0.1% edible sugar, and insert the fresh flowers into this solution; this can also extend the flowering period.
(4) Cuttings should be cut in the morning before the dew has dried; cut off the leaves on the part of the flower branch that will be in water to prevent rot, and insert them into water immediately after cutting, so as not to affect the life of the cut flowers due to excessive water loss. For flower branches with a lot of sap, such as poinsettia, do not insert them into water immediately after cutting; instead, burn the cut surface over a candle or alcohol lamp flame, then cut off some of the charred part, disinfect it and rinse it clean with water, and finally insert it into water, to prevent wilting from excessive sap loss.
(5) After cut flowers are placed in a water bottle, do not put them in direct sunlight, and even less near a heating source, otherwise the flowers tend to fade early. In addition, do not place cut flowers near ripe fruit, otherwise it will accelerate petal drop; for example, Chinese rose, carnation, narcissus, freesia, lily, baby's breath, and others are all very sensitive to the gas released by fruit.
(6) Scalding method: Dip the base of the flower branch into boiling water, take it out after ten seconds (for fragile, delicate flowers, only dip for one or two seconds); this can block the cut and prevent the liquid in the flower branch tissue from spilling out, and has a good effect on herbaceous flowers.
(7) Salt water or sugar water method: Add a little table salt or edible sugar to the water for keeping flowers, or when the flower branch has just been cut, crush the cut and rub it with table salt; the effect is even better than the scalding method. Sugar can make the flowers bright and long-lasting. However, flower branches with unopened buds should not be kept in salt water, otherwise the flowers will be very hard to open.
(8) Burning method: When the flower is cut, apply a little alcohol to the cut and hold it in a flame. Only when the cut is nearly scorched black should it be inserted into the vase; in this way it can be preserved for a long time. But this method is only suitable for woody plants or plants with thick, hard branches, such as banksia rose, lilac, plum blossom, peony, coral tree, chrysanthemum, and so on.
(9) Liquid immersion method: Before inserting the cut flower branch into the vase, first soak its end in used waste developer for half an hour; flower branches treated this way can have their flowering period extended.
(10) Beer method: Add a little beer to the water, and the flowering period can be extended by more than ten days, but for very delicate flowers it is best to add less. Experiments have shown that in potted clivia, pouring 50 milliliters of beer per pot can not only promote flower stalk emergence, but also make the emerging flower stalk both tall and thick, with large and vivid flowers.
(11) Preservative method: Keep flowers in a 1:3000 aspirin water solution or a 1:2000 potassium permanganate water solution; the effect of extending the flowering period is even better.
(12) Cut-under-water method: When gathering, leave the flower branches a bit longer; after bringing them indoors, quickly immerse the base of the flower branches in a basin of water, cut off a portion again underwater (be careful to cut diagonally), then take them out and immediately put them in a vase. Cut flowers bought from the market should also be treated the same way before being put in a vase. This method can effectively remove and reduce air bubble blockages inside the flower stem, improve the absorption capacity of the flower branch after being placed in the vase, and extend the fresh-keeping period.
In addition, the water used for arranging flowers is best well water, clear river water, and so on; tap water is best left to stand for a day before use.
In fact, there are many more methods for growing roses, and they will not be introduced one by one here. I hope the above content can help everyone!
You can also crush the cut when the flower branch has just been cut, and rub it with table salt; the effect is even better than the scalding method. Sugar can make the flowers bright and long-lasting. However, flower branches with unopened buds should not be kept in salt water, otherwise the flowers will be very hard to open.(8) Burning method: When the flower is cut, apply a little alcohol to the cut and hold it in a flame. Only when the cut is nearly scorched black should it be inserted into the vase; in this way it can be preserved for a long time. But this method is only suitable for woody plants or plants with thick, hard branches, such as banksia rose, lilac, plum blossom, peony, coral tree, chrysanthemum, and so on.
(9) Liquid immersion method: Before inserting the cut flower branch into the vase, first soak its end in used waste developer for half an hour; flower branches treated this way can have their flowering period extended.
(10) Beer method: Add a little beer to the water, and the flowering period can be extended by more than ten days, but for very delicate flowers it is best to add less. Experiments have shown that in potted clivia, pouring 50 milliliters of beer per pot can not only promote flower stalk emergence, but also make the emerging flower stalk both tall and thick, with large and vivid flowers.
(11) Preservative method: Keep flowers in a 1:3000 aspirin water solution or a 1:2000 potassium permanganate water solution; the effect of extending the flowering period is even better.
(12) Cut-under-water method: When gathering, leave the flower branches a bit longer; after bringing them indoors, quickly immerse the base of the flower branches in a basin of water, cut off a portion again underwater (be careful to cut diagonally), then take them out and immediately put them in a vase. Cut flowers bought from the market should also be treated the same way before being put in a vase. This method can effectively remove and reduce air bubble blockages inside the flower stem, improve the absorption capacity of the flower branch after being placed in the vase, and extend the fresh-keeping period.
In addition, the water used for arranging flowers is best well water, clear river water, and so on; tap water is best left to stand for a day before use.
In fact, there are many more methods for growing roses, and they will not be introduced one by one here. I hope the above content can help everyone!