8 Causes of Rubber Plant Leaf Drop and How to Fix Them
The rubber plant (Ficus elastica) is a potted plant with very lush foliage. Some people run into leaf drop when growing rubber plants and don't know how to care for them. Below, the editor will walk you through the 8 causes of rubber plant leaf drop and how to fix them.
1. Soil compaction caused by not repotting for a long time
[Cause] In the early stages of growth, the rubber plant needs repotting once a year, with the pot diameter increasing each year. After 6 to 8 years of growth, it can be repotted once every three years. If it is not repotted for a long time, the potting soil becomes severely compacted and the soil aeration is poor, causing the fine roots of the rubber plant to suffocate and die off. They can no longer absorb water and nutrients, which causes the leaves to turn yellow and drop.
[Solution] Once the temperature reaches above 15 degrees, repot the plant, pruning away the dead roots and shaking off most of the old soil. Remove the yellowed leaves and shorten the stems appropriately. Replace the original compacted potting soil with fresh, fertile growing medium and keep the soil consistently moist. This can encourage new roots to grow, restore the plant to health, and help it grow into a well-branched plant. In future care, keep the potting soil well aerated and permeable. While keeping the potting soil moderately moist, loosen the soil once every 15 to 20 days to prevent repeated watering from causing compaction, which can lead to root rot or root shrinkage.
2. Not fertilizing for a long time
[Cause] The rubber plant loves heavy feeding and heavy watering. Not fertilizing for a long time causes malnutrition, which leads to yellowing leaves.
[Solution] Add an appropriate amount of base fertilizer when repotting, remove the yellow leaves, and thereafter apply liquid fertilizer once every half month, mainly phosphorus and potassium fertilizer.
3. Winter temperatures too low
[Cause] The rubber plant's minimum tolerable temperature is above 6 to 8 degrees. If the indoor temperature in winter drops below 5 degrees, the leaves will turn yellow and drop.
[Solution] Raise the indoor temperature for overwintering and be sure to keep it above 6 to 8 degrees.
4. Overwatering or overfertilizing
[Cause] Although the rubber plant is a plant that loves water and fertilizer, overwatering or overfertilizing can cause problems, especially between August and September when the weather is still rather muggy: too much water creates standing water in the pot. Or, when overwintering, too much water while the plant is in its dormant period, when transpiration is reduced, means the water in the pot cannot drain away in time. Alternatively, accidentally applying raw fertilizer, heavy fertilizer, or concentrated fertilizer can all cause root rot due to water damage or fertilizer burn, leading to yellowing leaves. If the root rot is caused by fertilizer burn, the roots will be accompanied by an unpleasant odor.
[Solution] First cut away the rotted roots until the cut surface is fresh and white milky sap seeps out. Let them air for a while until the sap at the cuts dries, or apply sulfur powder to the cuts to disinfect them, or smear clean plant ash or charcoal crumbs on the cuts. At the same time, cut away part of the branches to reduce transpiration water loss, then repot the plant. When replanting, it is best to use clean, slightly damp fine sand to first surround the root wounds, then plant in fresh, loose sandy loam on the outside. Strengthen shading and misting, and do not water again until the potting soil is dry. As long as the root damage is not too severe, new fine fibrous roots will emerge from the wounds after one month. In future care, simply keep the potting soil slightly moist; do not overwater, and mist the leaves more in the morning and evening.
5. Lack of water
[Cause] Because the indoor air is too dry, the moisture in the potting soil is not enough to supply transpiration for all the leaves, causing some leaves, especially the lower old leaves, to turn yellow and even drop.
[Solution] Check the moisture level of the potting soil from time to time and replenish water promptly. Mist the leaves every morning and evening. If that is still not enough, mist the leaves again around noon. Note: the water temperature for watering and misting should be roughly the same as the soil and room temperature. If the water temperature for watering and misting differs greatly from the soil and air temperature, it can easily cause adverse physiological reactions in the plant.
6. Poor indoor ventilation
[Cause] If the room is not ventilated for a long time, harmful gases accumulate, such as excessively high carbon dioxide concentration, which can also cause yellowing leaves.
[Solution] Open the windows promptly for ventilation; keeping the room ventilated and the air fresh will improve the situation. In winter, open the doors and windows at noon when the temperature is higher to refresh the indoor air.
7. Shade for a long time
[Cause] The rubber plant is a tropical species that loves ample sunlight and cannot tolerate shade. If it does not get sunlight indoors for a long time, yellowing leaves will also occur.
[Solution] Place the plant in a spot with sunlight.
8. Possible infection with gray mold
[Cause] Gray mold is a fungal☆disease☆ common in open-field and protected cultivation crops and relatively difficult to control. It is a low-temperature, high-humidity disease. The pathogen grows at temperatures of 20 to 30°C, and the disease peaks when the temperature is 20 to 25°C and humidity stays above 90%.
[Solution] Remove and burn diseased leaves promptly when found. Increase indoor light and raise the room temperature. Alternatively, spray 50% vinclozolin (Ronilan) wettable powder at 1200 times dilution, or 40% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 600 times dilution, alternating the two, once every 7 to 10 days, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays, which can effectively control the spread of the disease.
The above is the relevant introduction in this article. I believe you now have a simple understanding of this after reading it. If you need more, you can continue to follow No.1 Home Network for more information.
It loves ample sunlight and cannot tolerate shade. If it does not get sunlight indoors for a long time, yellowing leaves will also occur.[Solution] Place the plant in a spot with sunlight.
8. Possible infection with gray mold
[Cause] Gray mold is a fungal☆disease☆ common in open-field and protected cultivation crops and relatively difficult to control. It is a low-temperature, high-humidity disease. The pathogen grows at temperatures of 20 to 30°C, and the disease peaks when the temperature is 20 to 25°C and humidity stays above 90%.
[Solution] Remove and burn diseased leaves promptly when found. Increase indoor light and raise the room temperature. Alternatively, spray 50% vinclozolin (Ronilan) wettable powder at 1200 times dilution, or 40% chlorothalonil wettable powder at 600 times dilution, alternating the two, once every 7 to 10 days, for 2 to 3 consecutive sprays, which can effectively control the spread of the disease.
The above is the relevant introduction in this article. I believe you now have a simple understanding of this after reading it. If you need more, you can continue to follow No.1 Home Network for more information.