Sicilian Wine: Humans Crack the Code of Terroir and Varieties, Letting Grapes Shine

A single grape is a local chronicle; the terroir, sunlight, rain and snow, and the traces of changing seasons cannot escape its discerning eye, and the farmer's careful tending is also noted drop by drop. The winemaker carefully interprets and skillfully crafts, the fruit becomes fine wine, and a plain record turns gorgeously into a timeless poem.

The white wine just taken from the 32-meter-deep underground cellar was refreshingly cool and delightful. The host brought out three vintages of Ficiligno at once: 2011, 2003 and 2001. This name comes from a local type of stone on the island of Sicily. The drought-tolerant native grape variety Insolia and Viognier from France meet in mineral-rich soil, bursting forth with the brilliant aromas of tropical fruit.

The 2011 vintage is still youthful and cannot hide it, while the 2003 vintage has reined in its exuberance into a rich fragrance. As for the already "adult" 2001, it is restrained and elegant; as the decanting time lengthens, its reserved, lingering charm slowly flows out. The wait is worth it. A white wine usually drunk fresh can withstand the test of 17 years, which is astonishing.