The secret technique for rose cuttings that is never shared, with a success rate of up to one hundred percent

[0036] The secret technique for rose cuttings that is never shared, use it for a one hundred percent success rate!

Every time Lanyao shares an article about rose cutting methods, there are always many gardening friends leaving comments saying their cuttings just won't survive. Just a couple of days ago, Lanyao showed off the roses she had propagated from cuttings in the readers' group, and a group member asked what cutting medium I used.

Actually, rose cuttings really aren't that particular. When Lanyao takes rose cuttings, if I have time, I usually mix my own soil, so that after the cuttings root, they don't need any fuss, and can be transplanted once they've grown bigger.

When taking just a few cuttings, Lanyao generally uses vermiculite or perlite, mainly because Lanyao is a bit lazy and doesn't want the hassle of mixing soil.

But this time the cutting medium Lanyao used was sand, because time was too tight. I took down the arch shelter for the climbing roses, and there were too many branches pruned from the roses. I felt it was a waste to throw them away, so I just trimmed them and stuck them in for cuttings casually, planning to give them to gardening friends once they survived.

Many gardening friends fail with rose cuttings, just like the gardening friend in Lanyao's readers' group said. So today Lanyao will teach you the simplest cutting method, with almost 100% survival.

Materials to prepare:

Clean river sand, pruning shears, rooting powder, carbendazim, flower pots, rose branches

Note:

For the sand, you must use river sand, and rinse it with water several times until it's clean. Sea sand cannot be used.

For rose branches, it's best to choose ones that have just finished blooming. Of course, that doesn't mean you can only use branches that have just finished blooming, it's just that such branches are better.

Processing the branches:

When trimming rose branches, cut them into cuttings with 2-3 bud nodes each.

Cut the top cut flat, and cut the bottom cut at a 45-degree angle.

Note: If branches aren't in short supply, it's recommended that each cutting contain 2-3 bud nodes. Single-bud-node cuttings are used more in nursery seedling production. For home propagation, it's recommended to keep 2-3 bud nodes, so that after rooting, the seedlings will grow more vigorously later on. After all, we gardening friends can't manage them as perfectly as nurseries do.

The trimmed branches should first be soaked in a carbendazim solution. Dilute the carbendazim solution until it's milky white, then soak for 10-20 minutes, remove and let dry.

Then soak them in rooting powder water, or directly dip some rooting powder onto the angled cut, and stick them straight into the sand.

After planting the cuttings, water them thoroughly once, so the sand fits tightly around the rose cuttings. Then place them in a spot with bright, indirect light.

Rooting in sand is very fast. Lanyao built a simple plastic shelter, and callus tissue grew in one week, with roots forming in about one month.

After rooting, transplant them into small flower pots to continue growing. Once the roots have filled the pot, switch to a slightly larger pot.

Actually, the survival rate of cuttings is also greatly related to the season. Cuttings taken in spring, autumn and winter have a higher survival rate, while cuttings in the hot summer weather easily fail. It's autumn right now, so why not give it a try? Propagating some little seedlings by hand to share with friends is a very happy thing too!

(The text of this article is original by Lanyao, the images are all from the internet, if there is any infringement please contact me to delete them)

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