For pothos, all you need is 1 old towel, and in 5 days it grows big white roots and rapidly fills the pot

Cuttings just won't take root, what should you do? It must be that you're not using the right method. Today, Huahua is going to share a few secret cutting tips, just use some old towels, sponges and other little tricks, and you're guaranteed to become a green thumb who can root anything you stick!

Use an old towel for pothos cuttings, and in 5 days big white roots appear!

1. Cut off a healthy, thick pothos vine, and it must have aerial roots, which makes it easier to survive.

2. Use clean scissors to cut the pothos vine into small sections, each retaining 1 aerial root and 1-3 leaves. Note, cut the incisions at an angle.

3. Put the cut pothos cuttings into a solution of carbendazim or potassium permanganate or aspirin, soak for 20 minutes to disinfect, then take them out and let them dry for half an hour.

4. Take 1 old towel, soak it thoroughly with water, then wring it out slightly, making sure the towel is moist but not dripping.

5. Use the moist towel to wrap up all the pothos cuttings.

6. Mix rooting hormone and clean water in a 1:1000 ratio, put it in a spray bottle, and spray it onto the towel. If you don't have rooting hormone, you can use willow branch soak water, aspirin water, or rice vinegar water instead. After spraying, put the towel into a plastic bag to retain moisture and warmth.

7. After that, when you see the towel is dry, spray rooting water on it. After about 5 days, the pothos will grow long, white roots!

8. After rooting, take out the pothos vines, plant them in loose, breathable soil, put them in a place with bright indirect light and good ventilation, and let them slowly adjust!

Applicable flowers:

The towel cutting method is suitable for: pothos, English ivy, heartleaf philodendron, Madagascar jasmine, clematis and other climbing flowers.

Use a sponge for rose cuttings, no black stems, 100% survival rate

1. Cut off a healthy post-bloom rose branch, about 5-10 cm, keep 2-5 leaves, cut the top flat and the bottom at an angle. After cutting, soak in carbendazim solution for 20 minutes.

2. A dish sponge from home can be used for rose cuttings. Wash it clean, cut them into several small cubes, and set aside.

3. Use scissors to cut a slit in the middle of the sponge cube, but don't cut too deep, make sure the sponge can be opened by hand and closes again when you let go.

4. Insert the rose branch to be rooted into the slit of the sponge, and spray the sponge wet.

5. Put the sponge with the rose branch inserted into a plastic bottle or drink bottle, pour a small amount of mineral water or purified water into the bottom, water level about 2-3 cm, just enough to cover half of the sponge cube.

6. Put the plastic bottle in a well-lit south-facing balcony or east/west-facing balcony to receive light, so the leaves can carry out more photosynthesis and provide nutrients for root growth.

7. After about 1 week, the rose branch begins to send out roots. If there's no water at the bottom of the bottle, pour some in.

8. After half a month, white roots will have filled the entire sponge.

9. After the roots have filled out, we can transplant it into a pot. The sponge does not need to be cut off, just plant it together with the branch directly into the soil, and it won't affect root growth.

Applicable flowers:

The sponge cutting method is suitable for woody moisture-tolerant flowers such as rose, bougainvillea, gardenia, jasmine, osmanthus, and camellia. It is not suitable for moisture-intolerant flowers such as kalanchoe and succulents.

For jasmine cuttings, use a piece of foam board, and roots shoot out rapidly!

1. Cut off the post-bloom jasmine branch, like in the picture below, into sections of 2 nodes each, cut the top flat and the bottom at an angle, and keep 1 pair of leaves at the top!

2. Find a piece of foam board, drill a few holes in the middle, insert the jasmine branches into the holes, then put it into a basin filled with water, making sure the bottom of the branches can touch the water.

3. In as fast as 10 days, the jasmine branches will grow roots!

(Image author: Old Monkey King)

4. When the roots have grown more and reached a length of more than 5 cm, you can prepare for potting! Find a relatively small flower pot or disposable cup.

5. Then find a container a bit larger than the pot above, with no drainage holes at the bottom.

6. Pour some clean water into the outermost container, so the water will seep through the drainage holes of the pot into the inner pot, ensuring the water level inside can cover the jasmine roots.

7. Hold the rooted jasmine branch with one hand, and fill a flower pot with soil with the other.

7. After the soil is filled, put the whole setup in a place with bright indirect light and good ventilation. If there's no water in the pot, add water to it. In this way, the moist soil will let the water-grown jasmine roots gradually adapt, and the survival rate will be higher!

Applicable flowers:

The foam cutting method is suitable for cuttings of most flowers such as gardenia, jasmine, azalea, camellia, rose, money tree, schefflera, petunia, and periwinkle.

For camellia cuttings, dip in a bit of mud, and white roots shoot out rapidly!

1. Cut off a semi-lignified branch grown this year from the camellia, with 3-4 buds, cut the bottom at an angle, remove the lower leaves, keep only 2-3 leaves at the top, and let it dry in a cool, ventilated place.

2. After the branch has dried for 10-20 minutes, pick up the branch and dip the bottom in a bit of mud. The mud is just ordinary yellow mud or red mud, mixed with carbendazim and water. Dipping the branch in a bit can greatly increase the rooting rate.

3. You can also directly use mud to wrap a ball of mud around the bottom of the camellia branch.

4. Insert the mud-wrapped branch into river sand or vermiculite, with the part in the soil about 3-4 cm, water thoroughly, then cover the whole cutting setup with a plastic bag, poke one or two holes for ventilation, and put it in a well-lit place.

5. Every half month, open the plastic bag to check. If the soil is dry, water it. After about 2-3 months, the branch will have rooted.

6. After the roots have grown a lot, it can be transplanted into a pot!

(Image author: Camellia Highly Toxic)

Applicable flowers:

The mud cutting method is suitable for woody flowers such as camellia, osmanthus, azalea, gardenia, and jasmine.

For bougainvillea layering, wrap a plastic bottle around it, and it takes shape quickly with a high survival rate!

1. First, we choose a robust bougainvillea branch, use a utility knife to make a ring cut in the bark where we want to layer, first cut a wound about 1-2 cm wide, then peel off the bark surface cleanly, without damaging the xylem.

2. If the bougainvillea branch is relatively long, we can make 2-3 ring cuts on this branch, and produce 3 bougainvillea plants at the same time!

3. Find a plastic bottle, cut it as shown below, and wrap it around the ring-cut bark area.

4. Then use tape to stick the cut opening and the lower end of the plastic bottle together, fill it with soil. You can use garden soil or nutrient soil, but it must be sun-disinfected beforehand.

5. Use a plastic bag or film to wrap the open top of the plastic bottle.

6. If you see the soil in the plastic bottle is dry, you can poke a small hole in the plastic bag and water through the hole.

7. After about 1 month, we can see through the plastic bottle that thick roots have grown inside!

8. After rooting, we can cut off the branch, open the plastic bottle, and plant the rooted bougainvillea into a pot!

Applicable flowers:

The plastic bottle aerial layering method is suitable for woody flowers such as bougainvillea, rose, osmanthus, camellia, and azalea, as well as fruit trees such as fig and pomegranate.

For rubber tree cuttings, use a sheet of toilet paper, and roots shoot out rapidly!

1. Cut off a healthy rubber tree branch, keep only 2-4 leaves at the top, cut off the rest to reduce consumption. For overly large leaves, you can also cut off half.

2. Soak the prepared rubber tree branch in carbendazim solution, take it out after 2 hours, and let it dry in a ventilated place.

3. Use ordinary toilet paper to wrap the bottom of the rubber tree branch, not too tightly, with a wrapping thickness of about 1 cm.

4. Spray water onto the toilet paper to wet it.

5. Throw the branch into a plastic bag, and poke a few holes in the plastic bag for ventilation.

6. Put the plastic bag in a place with bright indirect light and good ventilation. When you see the toilet paper is about to dry, spray water on it. After about 2-3 weeks, the rubber tree branch will grow thick roots!

Applicable flowers:

The toilet paper cutting method is suitable for most flowers such as rubber tree, radermachera, rubber tree, money tree, periwinkle, petunia, and gardenia.

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