How much water is appropriate for succulents?

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People online often ask me how much water is appropriate. Below I will introduce the methods for judging this!

1. Bamboo skewer test: Insert a bamboo skewer (or toothpick) into the potting soil to two-thirds of its depth. When it is time to water, pull out the bamboo skewer and check the dryness and moisture level of the soil portion. This method is very helpful for watering plants that are dormant, semi-dormant, or about to enter dormancy or semi-dormancy;

2. Surface soil dryness and moisture test: Generally speaking, when the surface soil turns pale, it can be watered. This is the principle of "do not water if not dry, water thoroughly if dry." So-called dry means that the surface soil has turned pale, but if you move the surface soil aside, moisture can still be seen. For succulents and cacti in the growing season, this judging method is sufficient. For vigorous growers, water immediately; for those relatively afraid of water, wait two days before watering.

There are also other methods, such as the pot-lifting method. That is, friends with good feel can lift the pot, and if it feels light, it can be watered. For succulents and cacti grown in plastic pots, where the soil is mainly lightweight materials such as peat, the difference in weight after watering and when dry is quite obvious. There is also the pot-tapping method: lightly tap the side of the pot with a finger; if it makes a hollow sound, that indicates the soil is dry.

Once the soil moisture has been judged, it is time to water. When conditions permit, the bottom-watering method is best. Generally, immerse the pot to half its depth in water; 15 seconds is enough. Do not wait until moisture appears on the surface soil before taking it out. The looser and more breathable the soil, the less time can be used, because capillary action is stronger. The advantage of this watering method is that it can ensure the upper part of the soil is relatively drier than the lower part, making root rot less likely. This is because the root tip of a plant is divided into the root cap area, growth area, growth zone, and root hair area. Only the root hairs are the main part for absorbing water and have the strongest resistance to moisture, while the old roots above the root hair area have already lost their water-absorbing function and mainly serve to transport water and nutrients and to anchor the plant, with poor resistance to moisture. Root rot often starts from here.

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