Succulent leaf cuttings are very simple; if you want to quickly fill a pot, come and give it a try

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Images: Succulent Plant Garden

Leaf cutting, as the name implies, means inserting a single leaf to grow a plant. Many people have tried inserting leaves and sowing seeds, only to end up with leaves rotting and turning black without success. In fact, leaf cuttings are not as difficult as we imagine; they are actually a very easy thing to do. Below, let's talk about how to propagate succulents through leaf cuttings.

The time for leaf cuttings can be chosen in spring or summer, and the temperature must be above 15°C. Higher summer temperatures do not affect seedling emergence.

When selecting leaves, choose leaves twisted off from healthy, vigorous plants. You can pick sturdy leaves from the lower part near the stem and remove them by rocking them left and right. The leaves must be fresh. Soak them in carbendazim at a 1:1000 ratio for 10 minutes, then sun them for 2 to 3 hours so the plant wounds heal completely, and then place them in a ventilated, bright condition for 3 to 4 days, ideally no more than 7 days. Slightly wilted or softened leaves, if handled properly, may also successfully produce seedlings.

After choosing the leaves, let's choose the soil. We choose humus soil, because after the seedlings emerge they need a large amount of nutrients, so the leaf-cutting soil needs to retain water and moisture. The seedlings and young plants are still very fragile and cannot be fertilized for the time being, and the fertility of the humus soil just happens to make up for this gap, so experienced veterans all choose humus soil for succulent leaf cuttings. We use carbendazim at a 1:1000 ratio to spray the soil layer completely until moist, cover it with plastic film, and expose it to full sun for 2 to 3 days. Then uncover the film and expose it to full sun for 1 to 2 days, so the soil has sufficient time for sterilization.

We use a large square tray, 2.*30CM, with no holes in the bottom, to pot the soil. Generally a soil thickness of 3 to 5 cm is enough. Spread the soil flat, then spray the soil with carbendazim at a 1:1000 ratio until moist. Do not let water accumulate. Beginners will insert the leaves directly into the soil; this method is not recommended, because some new leaves have plant wounds that have not fully healed, and if the soil has not been sterilized, inserting them will cause bacterial infection, which will lead to the leaves rotting. So the proper method is to simply lay the leaves flat on the surface.

After most of the leaves have sprouted, about 15 days later, you can uncover the film. In the week before sprouting, spray water once every 3 days to maintain soil moisture. Do not pour water heavily. Cover the tray with plastic film and poke a few small holes. After about a week, the leaves will root or sprout. At this time, you can cover with film during the day and uncover it at night for ventilation. After sprouting, you can spray a little water every evening. The young seedlings grow vigorously and have strong resistance, so there is no need to worry that too much water will kill them.

After the seedlings emerge, they are easy to manage. Just spray water whenever the surface of the soil dries. Generally, if you do leaf cuttings in spring, by autumn you can move them into pots for management. In summer, you must hold back; plump little seedlings are not recommended for repotting. Some leaves may look as if nothing is happening after a month, and that is fine too. They will still send out roots and buds. There is no need to worry that the leaves will go bad after being left for a long time. Even if some leaves curl up, do not worry. They will still drill down into the soil.

Alright, having said this much, are you starting to want to try it yourself and personally feel the joy that leaf cuttings bring you? From then on, you will be unable to put down these little lives, and after success you will feel a little sense of accomplishment and marvel at the wonders of life!

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