Grow your clivia like this in autumn, and its leaves will be glossy and shiny, with flower buds growing vigorously

If you don't repot your clivia, it won't grow for a year

The harm of not repotting: when we care for clivia, we need to keep increasing the pot size according to the plant's growth. If we don't switch to a larger pot, its fleshy roots will be too crowded, which will affect nutrient uptake!

What's more, if clivia isn't repotted for a long time, the soil's nutrients will gradually be depleted, and the longer the time, the worse the soil's air permeability. Autumn is exactly the good season for repotting and changing the soil, so fellow growers must not miss it!

1. Preparation before changing the soil

Before changing the soil, we need to do the preparatory work first. According to the size of the pot, withhold water in advance; by stopping watering, we reduce damage to the root system when changing the soil.

Prepare the replacement soil. We can use leaf mold and pine needle soil, adding a small amount of perlite and charcoal.

2. During the soil change

Take the clivia out of the pot, remove the root ball, cut off rotten and hollow roots, coat the wounds with plant ash, let it dry for a while, and then pot it up.

Choose a good pot, first spread a layer of base soil on the bottom of the pot, then turn the plant upside down, hold the clivia's roots with your hand, and first fill soil into the root pocket (the space between the roots).

Then hold the roots together with the soil wrapped around them and place them in the middle of the pot, then fill the space around the roots with soil. After filling, press the soil firmly along the edge of the pot, but do not press the soil at the roots in the middle.

When changing the soil, we can also mix roasted hemp seeds, decomposed cake fertilizer, and bone meal into the soil as base fertilizer. Note that the amount must not be too large, and it must not come into direct contact with the roots.

3. Care after changing the soil

After the plant is potted, water it thoroughly immediately, and place it in a well-ventilated spot where direct sunlight cannot reach it to recover. After a week, you can care for it normally!

Clever division of clivia, and you can get two more pots!

Generally, plants over 4 years old can produce offsets at the leaf area. When they grow to 5-6 leaves, we can divide them, and this can be done at the same time as the autumn repotting!

When dividing, separate the new plant together with its fleshy roots from the mother plant, cut it off with a knife in one stroke, apply plant ash to the cut, and pot it up after the wound dries.

If the new young plant has not grown fleshy roots, we don't need to worry. We can cut it off directly, take cuttings from the young plant, and pot it up for planting after it has rooted.

Fertilize clivia more, and its leaves will be lush green!

For base fertilizer, we can apply the fertilizers as written above for repotting. If fellow growers don't want to repot this season, we can bury decomposed cake fertilizer and bone meal 2cm into the soil, still taking care not to let it come into direct contact with the roots.

For top dressing, liquid fertilizer is generally used, and fermented soybean cake water or fishy water can be applied once every half month.

Starting from October, the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer can be increased to promote the plant's flower spike emergence and blooming. Generally apply 2-3 times; once the flower spike actually emerges, that's enough.

Huahua reminds you: when fertilizing, we must control the amount well. It's better to use less than more, and better to use light than concentrated!

Give clivia a chill, and the flower spike will grow rapidly!

If you want clivia to bloom smoothly, the first point is to fertilize as mentioned above. In autumn, you must increase the application of phosphorus and potassium fertilizer to promote flowering more.

The second point is appropriate low temperature (5-10°C). In winter, be careful not to move it indoors too early; a slightly lower temperature is better as long as it doesn't suffer cold damage.

After that, move it indoors and increase the day-night temperature difference. After the spike emerges, keep the temperature at around 20°C. If the temperature is below 15°C when the flower stem is emerging, it will cause the spike to get stuck.

The third point: now that summer has passed, light intensity is also weakening. We need to appropriately increase sunlight exposure so the plant can smoothly differentiate flower buds!