Practical tips for sowing succulent plants at home

When should you sow succulent plants? Actually, when to sow succulent plants cannot be determined simply by month or season, because our country is vast and the climate varies greatly between north and south, and the sowing environment is heavily influenced by human intervention, so the sowing time generally has to be decided according to the local climate and temperature. Many plant enthusiasts rush to sow as soon as they buy succulent seeds, and give up when the seeds show no sprouts after a month, without considering the sowing temperature at all.

Before sowing succulent plants, the soil must be soaked with water and kept moist at all times. The best method is to use a double-pot setup, with a tray underneath that can hold water, and do not let the water run out. Air humidity should be maintained with a transparent lid or cling film. The lid needs to have a few ventilation holes and should not be completely sealed. After most of the seeds have germinated, just remove the lid.

Some people sow Crassulaceae seeds at over 30 degrees. Sowing when the temperature is unsuitable often results in a low germination rate or no germination at all. 10-25 degrees is relatively suitable, and a certain day-night temperature difference is needed. Humidity: relatively high soil humidity and air humidity are needed. After sowing succulents, should you put water in the tray? If yours are seeds, yes; if they are already grown, then no.

Time: Taking the common Crassulaceae genera Echeveria, Pachyphytum, Graptopetalum and Dudleya as examples, generally those that can sprout will all sprout within 3 days to 2 weeks. Other genera have not been sown, and some need longer. Sufficient scattered light is needed; no direct light, and not complete darkness. Use scattered light before germination, then gradually transition to natural direct light, and provide shade in summer. Seedlings are not afraid of etiolation; as long as they are alive they can recover later, but if they are sunburned to death there is nothing you can do.

Next comes the issue of transplanting succulent plants. Generally, once a pair of cotyledons has unfolded, you can transplant for the first time. At this point they have not yet developed many roots, and once they are settled in they are actually less likely to die from transplanting. After transplanting, apply a top dressing, which is good for supporting the seedlings and preventing fungus gnats. After that, transplant whenever they become crowded, otherwise the seedlings compete for nutrients, soil and light, which is not good for their growth. After transplanting, the spacing between seedlings should not be too large either; a spacing of one finger's width is fine. A certain amount of competition is not without benefit. When they grow bigger, they can be transplanted into plug trays with individual cells.

Let us expand the knowledge a bit more. Key points for cultivating succulent plants: the growing medium should be loose, breathable and well-draining, but with a certain water-holding capacity, and neutral or slightly acidic. For highland cacti (the genera Aztekium, Obregonia and Strombocactus) and Ariocarpus, a little more rice-hull ash and small-grained weathered rock can be added. For tall columnar species, coarse quartz sand can be mixed in to stabilize the plants.

This is a gathering place for succulent plant enthusiasts, sharing succulent care tips. You are welcome to follow and exchange ideas.