How to Water Lithops in Different Situations? A Full Breakdown of Methods

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Location: Foshan, subtropical monsoon climate. This article represents only my personal views and absolutely cannot be applied nationwide. Please refer to it cautiously and adapt accordingly.

Watering and soil mixing cannot be discussed separately. My soil mix is as follows, with a granular-to-peat ratio: for sowing soil 4:6; for plants over one year old 6:4; for plants over three years old or for planting-out soil 8:2. This article discusses watering based on this soil mix, so please refer to it cautiously.

I have put this off for a long time; today let's talk about watering Lithops. This should be the issue that puzzles beginners the most. It can be said that once you master the watering method, you have basically mastered Lithops care. But watering must be analyzed on a case-by-case basis and cannot be summed up in one sentence, so I will break it down.

1. Watering Methods for Lithops After Potting

For beginners, it is best to get into the hobby from September to April. From May to September, please pay attention to the temperature and reduce the amount of water given as appropriate.

For beginners, if they have no experience caring for other flowers, their watering experience is almost zero. Here I suggest beginners do not rush to plant Lithops. First water empty pots to get a preliminary understanding of how fast the growing medium dries. Specifically, you can do this: place the growing medium in the container used for planting, then respectively water it fully through, half through, and briefly soak the pot for 1 or 2 seconds, then observe how long it takes for these soils to dry completely in your own environment. Gaining a preliminary understanding of how fast the growing medium dries can help you avoid many detours.

Once you have some understanding of full watering, half watering, and giving just a little water, you can start buying and buying. Here you will face the first challenge for beginners: establishing the plant and rooting. For newly purchased Lithops, I still suggest trimming the roots, leaving 0.5-1 cm, letting them dry for 1-2 days, and then potting them. Water 1 day after potting.

Here there are two watering methods: A. For plants at least one year old that are plump with no wrinkles or 1-2 wrinkles, they recover their condition and root relatively easily. It is recommended to water only half through. Over the following week, replenish water according to how dry the surface is, only giving a little water, keeping the middle and upper layers of soil slightly moist. Generally they can root in 3 days, and in two weeks the root system is very good. Note that heavy watering is not recommended, because plants that have rooted well may become leggy as a result. B. For plants at least one year old with a small number of wrinkles or that are shriveled. These plants have lost a bit too much water and may enter a mild dormant state. Even if they are not dormant, the plant body lacks water and rooting is relatively slow. Therefore, such plants should be watered half through to fully through. Over the following week, keep the middle and upper layers of soil moist, but do not let water overflow from the granular soil. Once you observe that the plant's wrinkles have reduced, rooting has succeeded; afterward, just keep the middle and upper layers slightly moist. Rooting can generally be completed in about 7-14 days, and in 20 days the root system is basically well grown.

For individuals in the same pot whose rooting is severely delayed, dig them out and root them separately.

After rooting is complete, you can proceed with normal care. For the next two waterings, I recommend pot soaking, with a water level of about 3 cm, soaking for 1-3 seconds, depending on feel, as every soil mix is different. The purpose is to encourage the plant to send roots downward.

2. Watering Methods for Lithops Sowing and Seedling Transplanting

For transplanting after the first molt, or transplanting at least one year old, for normal healthy plants please refer to method A above; for weak seedlings please refer to method B. Weak seedlings have small and weak roots, and to root they must have heavy water, keeping the middle and upper layers of soil moist. How many survive depends on fate. You can replenish water for weak seedlings every day, and there is no need to fear leggy growth from too much water; as weaklings they cannot become leggy.

3. Daily Care of Lithops Individuals Over One Year Old

Different varieties have different water requirements. Here I use Lithops lesliei as the basis for discussion. The experience summarized by seniors, "if it is not wrinkled, do not water," is something I very much agree with. When the plant's root system is good, a slight lack of water in the plant body will cause wrinkles. 1-2 wrinkles can basically improve noticeably 1 day after watering and disappear within 3 days. Three or more wrinkles can basically improve within 3 days after watering and disappear within a week. After watering, the plant can recover from a sunken surface to a flat or protruding surface. Any more water and there is a possibility of cracking and leggy growth. Therefore, the method of "if it is not wrinkled, do not water" can intuitively give watering instructions. For beginners, the primary task is to keep the plant alive, so there is no need to try other fancy methods.

Besides "if it is not wrinkled, do not water," "alternate dry and wet, and when watering, water thoroughly" is also a commonly mentioned method. But in my own practice, this method does not suit me. For one thing, it is hard to judge the time to dry out when wet; for another, watering thoroughly easily causes collapse and leggy growth. The humidity here is relatively high all year round. From February to May the four seasons randomly scatter; from May to November it is hot with little wind; from November to February the temperature is suitable, but cold and warm fronts linger, making continuous overcast days and light rain likely. Therefore I really do not dare to casually say things like "when watering, water thoroughly." It is better to discuss watering by month.

November to February, growing season, temperatures drop. On sunny days it is dry with a light breeze. The bold can choose to water thoroughly; I am timid and choose half through. So-called half through means soaking the pot for 3 seconds, with no moisture appearing on the soil surface or no more than half the area becoming moist. The disadvantage of pot soaking is that it is hard to judge the time and easy to overdo; the advantage is that the water concentrates at the bottom of the pot, so there will not be the awkward situation of the upper part being smothered while the bottom is dry, and it ensures the plant can absorb water.

February to May, growing season, temperatures gradually rise, and the weather is erratic. Harsh conditions such as 40 degrees in the sun or two consecutive weeks of overcast rain can occur. Therefore watering must be cautious: half through or small amounts given multiple times. Please pay more attention to the weather forecast and choose consecutive sunny days to water.

May to November, summer, hot, and the plants enter a mild dormant or completely dormant state. Mild dormancy still responds to water and will grow and recover slowly; complete dormancy does not respond to water, so please do a good job of cooling and cut off water. My personal experience is that in summer, with shading during the day, keeping below 45 degrees, and below 30 degrees at night, Lithops lesliei can still grow, and not slowly at that, at most entering a mild dormant state. During this period I do not recommend cutting off water, but "water control" is a must, that is, watering cautiously. You can choose nighttime misting or a small amount of watering. In addition, in summer you can also choose to water half through on two or three consecutive overcast days, while using a fan. It does not need to be very strong; a light breeze to keep the air circulating and prevent stuffiness and heat is enough. On consecutive sunny days it is not suitable to water half through or even thoroughly, as high daytime temperatures easily cook the plants. In summer, do not pursue growth speed; just seek to pass through safely.

The seasonal watering methods are roughly as above. For specific months, please refer to your own environment.

4. Watering Methods for Individuals Over One Year Old in Various Growth States

Growing season: just water. Alternate dry and wet. Choose consecutive sunny days to water half through, and pay attention to ventilation.

Watering in the early stage of molting: by so-called early stage of molting, I think it means September to November (for Lithops pseudotruncatella and Lithops hookeri this is already the flowering season), when Lithops lesliei ends dormancy and enters the growing season, or in other words the early part of the growing season. During this period, the plant's old skins and root system begin to recover, and the new heads begin to form. I think giving small amounts of water multiple times can activate the plant, which can be regarded as adaptive preparation for the sufficient watering of the growing season. After all, having been dry for a summer, the activity of the root system has weakened, and it cannot absorb sufficient water; too much water can also easily create danger. At this stage, the plant's external appearance does not change much, but the root system and new heads are active. Nutrients are consumed in transferring from the old skins to the new heads, and this shortfall comes from the soil.

I also have another view: if the root system is not activated, the new heads will not grow, and therefore molting cannot occur. Therefore, I even more do not recommend cutting off water in summer.

I have seen many people give the advice that during the molting period you should cut off water, give more sun, and torment them harshly. My personal experience is that such a general recommendation is not feasible. The TOP RED (No. 1) I bought was large, bloomed beautifully, and its roots had even grown out of the bottom of the pot, but when the molting period came and water was cut off, it did not finish molting through the whole summer, and the new head grew extremely slowly. The TOP RED (No. 2) I bought was medium-sized and sturdy, directly did not open, and no new head could be seen. With water cut off like this, the plant remained at this growth stage throughout molting, but the plant body may already have been dormant, and the external environment had already entered the next growing season. I give this example to show that during the molting period, the new head cannot necessarily fully absorb the nutrients of the old skins, and cutting off water during this period may cause the new head to enter dormancy.

I generally do not take this pot out to show people; it is grown too poorly and I am embarrassed to let people see it, but since we are discussing this, I am not afraid to lose face. Dry for a summer, the old skins cannot be shed, and only when water is given can the new heads grow. Now the new heads are not short and plump, but they are much better than last year's state. To restore the plant shape, it will probably take two or three years. On careful observation you can see that the middle layer of old skins is more shriveled than the outer layer of old skins. I think the activity in the middle is a bit higher than the outer layer; after all, it is one year younger and can transfer nutrients to the new heads. As for the outer layer, it can only slowly dry in the sun or be torn off when the new heads have grown about enough.

Watering during the molting period: during this period water must be controlled, otherwise the plant will become leggy. When wrinkles appear on the new heads, ignore whether the old skins are shriveled, and give a small amount of water to let the new heads recover.

This one, number 256, is undergoing its second molt. Just water normally. Plants one or two years old do not need water cut off during molting. But each watering should be a small amount; a large amount will burst the old skins open, which is not conducive to nutrient transfer and shriveling of the old skins.

Late molting period: when the old skins become thin and the new heads can be seen, you can choose to wait, or you can choose to water at this time to burst the old skins open. When sunlight is insufficient and the new heads have already grown to about the same size as the old heads, but the old skins stubbornly will not dry, you can also choose to water half through to burst the old skins open; afterward the old skins will also slowly dry out.

For those individuals whose old skins have split open and whose new heads have grown out, but whose old skins are still very thick, do not mind it. Water when it is time to water, and the old skins will slowly dry out. This may take half a year. If it does not work, then manually tear off the old skins. The impact is not great; after all, the new heads have grown, and the old skins are just an extra, surplus nutrient reserve, although this nutrition may not necessarily be usable.

This one was already double-headed before molting, and now the new heads are about the same size as the old heads. You can see marks on the new heads where the new heads and old skins squeezed together. I tore off the two pieces of old skin in the middle to give them room to grow, and now they have grown compactly too. The outer old skins are left, which have a certain protective effect, making them less likely to be knocked and damaged by granular soil. Also, water when it is time to water, even if the old skins are still there.

If the new heads have grown out and the old skins have completely dried, then congratulations, this is the most worry-free state. Water half through, and the new heads will grow very fast.

I did not photograph the soil where the old skins have completely dried. At this state it is actually already possible to water. The old skins are already over; they will not resume growth because of watering, and after bursting open they can dry out with some sun.

Watering for leggy individuals: control water, give small amounts, and completely cutting off water is not advisable. My 56A had water cut off for a year, and the new head still did not become shorter. When it wrinkles, give water. When the next new head grows out, cutting once to reduce legginess is more practical. "One bout of legginess takes three years to fix" is not said for nothing.

This is that 56A. There is still old skin from last year, with only a little left after tearing. Pictures do not lie, showing that simply cutting off water alone cannot make the new head absorb all the nutrients of the old skins. It must be combined with temperature (temperature difference), light, and watering to promote molting. Cutting off water stubbornly without considering the other two factors can only make the plant enter dormancy. Now this new head also gradually grew larger only after watering resumed.

In addition, for individuals that are difficult to molt and for leggy individuals, it is not recommended to peel the skin open all at once. The new heads are fragile, have insufficient anthocyanins, and easily dry out. It is recommended to separate the old skins bit by bit over several days, so that the new heads have a process of gradually contacting the outside world.

Also, adult plants are more drought-tolerant than one- or two-year-old plants. The amount of water should be a bit less and the watering interval a bit longer. For specifics, please refer to your own environment.

Another point is that different varieties of Lithops have different requirements for light, temperature, humidity, and water, and the differences can even be huge. It is best to grow each variety separately, and for newly acquired varieties, house them in individual pots. After you have figured out the care method, then plant multiple in one pot. After all, individual pots make it easier to control the amount of water given to each plant.

Finally, a comparison of plant shape with and without water control.

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