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The flowers you threw away, I gave them a good chop, and they sprouted like crazy, turning lush green in a month | Gardening Encyclopedia

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Autumn has finally arrived! But looking at the plants that were battered and left barely alive by summer, many flower lovers are disgusted by them and just toss them away! But if these almost-dead flowers were picked up by me! A few quick moves, and I guarantee they'll be lush green in a month, even fresher than when...



Autumn has finally arrived! But looking at the plants that were battered and left barely alive by summer, many flower lovers are disgusted by them and just toss them away! But if these almost-dead flowers were picked up by me! A few quick moves, and I guarantee they'll be lush green in a month, even fresher and more vibrant than when you first bought them!









The almost-dead money tree, a few chops and it comes back to life!




The money tree (Pachira aquatica) is the most common plant found in trash bins. Its root system is weak and prone to waterlogging and root rot. Generally, when it's thrown away, it's in a state of root rot with no leaves. Don't be fooled by its lifeless appearance - chop it a few times like I do, and I guarantee it'll survive!








1. Money trees almost always die from root rot, so when you bring the trunk home, the first priority is to deal with its rotten roots.




(Image: Pipi Muou   Source: Money Tree Forum)




2. Hold the roots under a faucet and rinse off the soil. Prepare some carbendazim, a chopping knife (or saw), and rooting hormone.






(Image: Pipi Muou   Source: Money Tree Forum)



3. Use a sharp chopping knife or saw to completely cut off the rotten roots. Don't leave a single rotten spot - cut until the roots show a fresh, clean cross-section like in the picture below.





(Image: Pipi Muou   Source: Money Tree Forum)




4. Soak the cleaned bottom trunk of the money tree in a carbendazim solution for about 10-15 minutes. After soaking, take it out, let it dry, then soak it in a rooting hormone solution for 20-30 minutes.




Flower lovers who don't have rooting hormone can soak some willow branches in water to use as a substitute.





(Image: Pipi Muou   Source: Money Tree Forum)




5. Use scissors to cut off the branches at the top of the money tree. The shorter you cut, the better, because the money tree currently has no roots, and keeping branches and leaves will only consume the nutrients in the trunk, which is not conducive to rooting.




After pruning, place it in a cool, well-ventilated area to dry for 1-2 days.





(Image: Pipi Muou   Source: Money Tree Forum)




6. After drying, the money tree is ready to be potted. When potting, place a layer of clay pebbles or coal cinders at the bottom of the pot. For the soil, you can mix garden soil with leaf mold and sand. Spray the soil to make it slightly moist.




Also, don't choose a pot that's too deep - like the pot in the picture below, it's too deep. If you can, choose a shallow pot.





(Image: Pipi Muou   Source: Money Tree Forum)




7. After planting the money tree, move it to a cool, well-ventilated area. Don't water it. After about 10 days, water the soil with rooting powder solution.




(Image: Pipi Muou   Source: Money Tree Forum)




8. About half a month later, the money tree will develop roots. During this period, absolutely do not water too much. You can just spray water around the trunk normally. After roots develop, the money tree will gradually grow small buds!





(Image: Pipi Muou   Source: Money Tree Forum)










Chop up an almost-dead pothos a few times, and in 1 month you'll have several pots!




You've spent years growing a pothos, and then it accidentally gets root rot. Watching the once-thriving vines become shriveled and wilted - is it really beyond saving? No! It can still be saved!







1. Select all the relatively healthy, thick vines of the pothos, and use scissors to cut a segment every 2 nodes.







2. Prepare loose, breathable soil. If you have coconut coir bricks at home, you can use those. If not, mix leaf mold, peat moss, and perlite in a 2:2:1 ratio, mix well, spray with water, and pour into the flower pot.







3. Lay the pothos vines flat on the pot soil, and sprinkle a thin layer of soil on top.







4. Use a fine-nozzle spray bottle to spray water on the pot surface. After spraying, cover with a plastic bag or a layer of plastic wrap to retain moisture.





5. In this season, every day in the morning, noon, and evening, open the plastic bag for 1 hour each time to let air in. After about 7-10 days, the vines will develop roots! After rooting, give them some indirect light, and they'll quickly grow small buds!







6. After the pothos grows small buds, apply compound fertilizer water once every half month, and it will quickly fill the pot!







A clivia with completely rotten roots, chop twice, and it grows big white roots!




After summer, surely many clivias will have problems like root rot and stem rot due to the dormant period. At this time, don't throw it away immediately. Because even if its roots have completely rotted away, you can still keep it alive using the method below!







1. Use a sharp utility knife to cut off the rotten roots of the clivia bit by bit, including the rotten

bulb - don't spare it either. Cut everything clean, otherwise there's a risk of it rotting again.







2. After cleaning, put the clivia bulb into a potassium permanganate solution and soak for about half an hour

. The ratio of potassium permanganate to clean water is 1:2000

. If you don't have potassium permanganate at home, carbendazim also works.







3. After disinfecting, take the clivia out and place it in a ventilated area to dry.







4. Prepare clean river sand, moisten it, and insert the clivia bulb into the river sand. The river sand can also be replaced with vermiculite, sphagnum moss, or sawdust.







5. After planting, place the pot in a cool area. When the soil is dry, water thoroughly. After about 15 days, the clivia will grow several plump white roots!







6. After the clivia develops roots, it can be transplanted into loose, breathable potting soil for normal care. After transplanting, don't expose it to sunlight - keep it in a cool place. After about 2 weeks when it has adapted, gradually expose it to sunlight and water it.










A gardenia with yellowing leaves and withering can be saved!




In spring and summer, the gardenias everyone bought and brought home - are they still alive now? I believe some flower lovers' gardenias have yellowing leaves, leaf drop, wilting, and are barely hanging on. So how do you save it?







1. Saving a slightly withered, wilting gardenia




1. Place the yellowing, wilting gardenia in a ventilated area, and use a fine-nozzle spray bottle to slowly moisten the soil surface.







2. Cut off the yellowed, withered branches and leaves. Don't cut leaves that are only slightly wilted or drooping - these leaves will gradually recover after absorbing water!







3

3. Place the gardenia in a cool area. Wait until the leaves gradually recover their vitality, then water thoroughly. During normal care afterward, you can pour water into the bottom saucer, just make sure the saucer doesn't run out of water.







2. Saving a gardenia with healthy roots but severely withered branches and leaves




1. Move the severely withered gardenia to a cool, ventilated area, and water it thoroughly once.







2. Cut off all the severely withered branches of the gardenia with sharp scissors - a heavy pruning, leaving only about 8 cm of the main branches.





(Author: Tongjipi   Source: Gardenia Forum)




3. After pruning, place it in a cool area first. Water thoroughly when the potting soil turns white. It will sprout in less than half a month. After sprouting, it can be exposed to sunlight!





(Author: Tongjipi   Source: Gardenia Forum)





A black-rotted kalanchoe, in 1 month becomes a big pot!




In summer, kalanchoe is extremely prone to black rot at the roots. If you notice your kalanchoe's roots turning black, take decisive action immediately - prune boldly and propagate openly!






1. Use sharp scissors to cut off healthy branches of the kalanchoe. Make sure the cross-section of the branch has no black spots!






2. Cut the kalanchoe branches into several small segments, each about 5-10 cm. After cutting, place them in a bright, ventilated area to let the cut ends dry.







3. Mix leaf mold and perlite in a 3:1 ratio. If you don't have leaf mold and perlite at home, you can also substitute garden soil and river sand. Stir the soil evenly, spray with water, and pour into the flower pot.






4. Insert the dried kalanchoe branches into the soil, place in a cool, ventilated area, and after about 1-2 weeks, they will develop roots!






5. After rooting, water thoroughly and gradually expose to sunlight. Soon the rescued kalanchoe will fill a large pot!











Throw a withered Christmas cactus into water, and it immediately comes back to life!




The Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera), after experiencing a summer of dormancy, may have root rot and wilted leaves. Don't rush to throw it in the trash - try putting it in water first, and it will quickly come back to life, instantly lush green!







1. Turn the Christmas cactus pot upside down, remove the soil from the roots, and check whether the roots show signs of rot.





2. If the roots show signs of rot, don't hold back - use clean scissors to snip, completely cutting them off. Cut everything clean!



3. After cutting off the rotten roots and stems, place the healthy Christmas cactus branches in a cool, ventilated area to let the wounds dry. About 3-5 hours or so.



4. Prepare a hydroponic bottle or plastic bottle, pour in clean water, and insert the Christmas cactus into the bottle opening, with the bottom about 0.5-1 cm away from the water.


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5. In less than half a month, the Christmas cactus will gradually grow roots. When the roots reach about 3 cm in length, it can be transplanted into soil!



6. When transplanting the Christmas cactus, it's best to use breathable pine needle soil, with some chicken manure fertilizer at the bottom of the pot. First keep it under indirect light. After half a month, expose it to sunlight, and water once every 1-2 weeks.


Apply compound fertilizer water once every 2 weeks. Before flowering, spray some monopotassium phosphate every 2 weeks.







Alright, that's it for today's rescue of almost-dead flowers.




Flower lovers, what other flowers do you need to rescue?




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