Throw away a badly pruned flower and it will sprout like crazy, turning lush green in a month

A nearly dead money tree (Pachira aquatica): a few snips and it comes back to life!

The money tree is the most common plant found in trash bins. Its root system is weak and prone to waterlogging and root rot. Usually when it is thrown out, it is in a state of root rot with no leaves. Don't be fooled by its lifeless appearance - cut it a few times like I do, and I guarantee it will survive!

1. Money trees almost always die from root rot, so when you bring the trunk home, the first priority is to deal with its rotten roots.

2. Hold the roots under a tap and rinse off the soil, then prepare some carbendazim, a chopping knife (or saw), and rooting hormone.

3. Use a sharp chopping knife or saw to completely cut off the rotten roots. Do not leave a single rotten spot, until the roots show a fresh, clean cut surface like in the picture below.

4. Soak the cleaned bottom trunk of the money tree in a carbendazim solution for about 10-15 minutes. After soaking, take it out, let it dry, then soak it in a rooting hormone solution for 20-30 minutes.

Those without rooting hormone can soak some willow branches in water to use as a rooting agent.

5. Use scissors to cut off the branches at the top of the money tree. The shorter the cut, the better, because the money tree currently has no roots, and keeping branches and leaves will only consume the trunk's nutrients, which is not good for rooting.

After pruning, place it in a cool, ventilated place to dry for 1-2 days.

6. After drying, the money tree is ready for potting. When potting, place a layer of clay pebbles or coal cinders at the bottom of the pot. For the soil, you can mix garden soil with leaf mold and sand. Spray the soil with water to make it slightly moist.

Also, do not choose a pot that is too deep. The pot in the picture below is too deep. If you can, choose a shallow pot.

7. After planting the money tree, move it to a cool, ventilated place. Do not water it. After about 10 days, water the soil with rooting powder solution.

8. After about another half month, the money tree will develop roots. During this period, absolutely do not water too much. Normally, just spray water around the trunk. Once roots have grown, the money tree will slowly sprout small buds!

Snip a nearly dead pothos (Epipremnum aureum) a few times, and in 1 month it will produce several pots!

You spent years growing a pothos, and then it accidentally gets root rot. Watching the once thriving vines become shriveled and wilted - is it really beyond saving? No! It can still be saved!

1. Select all the relatively healthy, thick vines of the pothos, and use scissors to cut a segment every 2 nodes.

2. Prepare loose, breathable soil. If you have coconut coir at home, you can use it. If not, mix leaf mold, peat soil, and perlite in a 2:2:1 ratio, mix well, spray with water, and pour into a flower pot.

3. Lay the pothos vines flat on the potting soil, and sprinkle a thin layer of soil on the surface.

4. Use a fine-nozzle spray bottle to spray water on the surface of the pot. After spraying, cover with a plastic bag or a layer of plastic film to retain moisture.

5. In this season, every day in the morning, noon, and evening, open the plastic bag for 1 hour each time to let air in. After about 7-10 days, the vines will grow roots! After rooting, give them some appropriate indirect light, and they will soon grow small buds!

6. After the pothos grows small buds, apply a compound fertilizer solution once every half month, and it will soon fill the pot!

A clivia (Clivia miniata) with completely rotten roots: cut twice and it grows big white roots!

After summer, there will surely be quite a few clivias that develop root rot and stem rot due to the dormancy period. At this time, don't throw it away immediately. Because even if its roots have completely rotted away, you can still keep it alive using the method below!

1. Use a sharp utility knife to cut off the clivia's rotten roots bit by bit, including any rotten bulb parts - cut everything off cleanly, otherwise there is a risk of rotting again.

2. After cleaning, soak the clivia bulb in a potassium permanganate solution for about half an hour. The ratio of potassium permanganate to clean water is 1:2000. If you don't have potassium permanganate at home, carbendazim also works.

3. After disinfecting, take the clivia out and place it in a ventilated place to dry.

4. Prepare clean river sand, moisten it with water, and insert the clivia bulb into the river sand. The river sand can also be replaced with vermiculite, sphagnum moss, or sawdust.

5. After planting, place the pot in a cool place. When the soil is dry, water thoroughly. After about 15 days, the clivia will grow several plump white roots!

6. After the clivia grows roots, it can be transplanted into loose, breathable potting soil for normal care. Right after transplanting, do not expose it to sunlight - place it in a cool place. After about 2 weeks when it has adapted, gradually expose it to sunlight and water it.

A gardenia (Gardenia jasminoides) with yellowing leaves and withering can be saved!

In spring and summer, the gardenias everyone bought and brought home - are they still alive now? I believe some flower lovers' gardenias definitely have yellow leaves, leaf drop, wilting, and are barely hanging on. So how do you save it?

I. Saving a slightly withered, wilted gardenia

1. Place the yellowed, wilted gardenia in a ventilated place, and use a fine-nozzle spray bottle to slowly moisten the soil surface.

2. Cut off the yellowed, withered branches and leaves. Do not cut leaves that are only slightly wilted and drooping - these leaves will slowly recover after absorbing water!

3. Place the gardenia in a cool place. Once the leaves slowly regain their vitality, water thoroughly once. During normal care afterward, you can pour water into the bottom saucer and just make sure the saucer never runs dry.

II. Saving a gardenia with healthy roots but severely withered branches and leaves

1. Move the severely withered gardenia to a cool, ventilated place and water thoroughly once.

2. Cut off all the severely withered branches of the gardenia with sharp scissors - a heavy prune - leaving only about 8 cm of the main stem.

3. After pruning, first place it in a cool place. When the potting soil turns pale, water thoroughly. In less than half a month it will sprout, and after sprouting it can be exposed to sunlight!

A black-rotted kalanchoe (Kalanchoe blossfeldiana): in 1 month it becomes a big pot!

In summer, kalanchoe roots are extremely prone to black rot. If you find that your kalanchoe's roots have turned black, you must take decisive measures immediately - prune boldly and propagate openly!

1. Use sharp scissors to cut off the healthy branches of the kalanchoe. Make sure the cross-section of the branch has no black spots!

2. Cut the removed kalanchoe branches into several small segments, each about 5-10 cm. After cutting, place them in a place with indirect light and ventilation to let the cut ends dry.

3. Mix leaf mold and perlite in a 3:1 ratio. If you don't have leaf mold and perlite at home, you can also use garden soil and river sand as substitutes. Stir the soil evenly, spray with water, and pour into a flower pot.

4. Insert the dried kalanchoe branches into the soil and place in a cool, ventilated place. After about 1-2 weeks, they will develop roots!

5. After rooting, water thoroughly and gradually expose to sunlight. Soon the rescued kalanchoe will fill a big pot!

A withered Christmas cactus (Schlumbergera): throw it in water and it immediately comes back to life!

After going through a summer of dormancy, the Christmas cactus may have root rot and wilted leaves. Don't rush to throw it in the trash - first try putting it in water. It will quickly come back to life and instantly turn lush green!

1. Turn the Christmas cactus pot upside down and remove the roots from the soil to check whether the roots show signs of rot.

2. If the roots show signs of rot, don't hesitate - use clean scissors to snip them off completely, cutting them all off cleanly!

3. After cutting off the rotten roots and stems, place the healthy Christmas cactus branches in a cool, ventilated place to let the wounds dry. About 3-5 hours or so.

4. Prepare a hydroponic bottle or plastic bottle, pour in clean water, and insert the Christmas cactus into the bottle opening, with the bottom about 0.5-1 cm above the clean water.

5. In less than half a month, the Christmas cactus will slowly grow roots. When the roots reach about 3 cm in length, it can be transplanted into soil!

6. When transplanting the Christmas cactus, it is best to use breathable pine needle soil, with some chicken manure fertilizer at the bottom of the pot. First care for it under indirect light. After half a month, expose it to sunlight, and water once every 1-2 weeks.

Apply a compound fertilizer solution once every 2 weeks, and spray some potassium dihydrogen phosphate every 2 weeks before flowering.