Struggling and muddled in the city, clear-headed and enchanted in the flower town beneath the snow mountain

Craving Xiamen in winter, yearning for Yunnan in summer - these are the dreams April habitually dreams in the bright blue sky days of Hangzhou.

A few days ago, April stole a little break, pulled herself away from busyness, and dragged her friend Abu along for a three-day mini-vacation in Lijiang~

Leaving home at 6 AM, with a stopover and a delay, it was already 2 PM by the time we reached Lijiang. The two of us, who had slept on the plane like 200-jin heavyweights, took one breath of Lijiang's air and immediately came back to life.

This may be what draws me to Lijiang - even if more and more people have abandoned it, April still loves it as always. I never go to those well-known tourist spots. This time I visited the flower-filled ancient town beneath the snow mountain, which 90% of people who come to Lijiang have never been to.

The Innocent Years

 Pu Shu Orion Constellation · Special Session

Pu Shu 

00:00/04:30

{Peony Girl Vol.843 }

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The flower-filled ancient town beneath the snow mountain

After returning, I still miss those days in Lijiang, like savoring a romantic encounter~

The white clouds drifting across the blue sky successfully filtered out the heat of the furnace and all the discomforts the city brings. The sunlight was transparent, the air crystal clear, the horizon and the human world connected not far away, dreams and reality interweaving through time and space.

I sat in the car with my face tilted upward, the gentle breeze bearing wings, arriving from the distant snow mountain and wilderness, awakening the long-dormant romantic cells within me.

My friend said, "You're trying to trick me into going to Lijiang again!"

Yes, people say Lijiang is overcrowded and overly commercialized, with little difference from a fabricated ancient town. Yiwu-made floral shawls fill the streets, "A Single Moment" plays endlessly, and fake romantic encounters set up by bar touts... If you love Lijiang, let it continue to live in your imagination.

Everyone who comes to Lijiang carries a soul different from the one they have in the city, but unfortunately, they go to the places where city people gather - and what they find is still the city.

Deliberately avoiding popular tourist spots is April's first principle when traveling, so even though this trip coincided with the peak summer tourism season, April was happy to spend each day alone in a sun-drenched courtyard, lost in thought.

Lijiang's twilight settles slowly.

After dinner, out for a stroll.

Encountered a couple taking a walk,

The wife holding flowers, chatting and laughing.

Passed by a sunflower field,

In the field stood a small courtyard, claiming a whole sea of flowers for itself.

A pumpkin vine by the courtyard gate had fully ripened,

Still hanging there, blushing red as if no one was watching over it.

The trust between people in the ancient town,

Is all open and transparent.

In the Naxi courtyards,

Every household has its own private little garden,

They know nothing about horticulture,

They just tend to them the way they tend to life itself.

Or casually pick a bouquet of fresh flowers,

Place them in a corner of the home,

Unassuming, yet dazzling.

This ancient town is one of Lijiang's three major ancient towns, and also the most remote and least attractive to tourists. Perhaps a small number of people have heard its name but never visited - it's called Baisha Ancient Town. Compared to Shuhe and Dayan, there are so few people it doesn't feel like Lijiang at all.

If not for the invitation fromTsingpu Lijiang Baisha Culture RetreatApril would never have accidentally discovered this beautiful ancient town.

Lijiang = romantic encounter - I never used to believe such sayings, but after this trip I am a firm believer.A romantic encounter isn't just the romance between men and women; encountering a landscape, a way of life, is an even more deeply etched romantic encounter.

Yuhu Village beneath the snow mountain

Yuhu Village, surrounded by snow mountains, lakes, and grasslands, is a place where photos need no filters.

Cattle graze leisurely,

Unnamed little flowers bloom everywhere.

Seeing the mountain as mountain, seeing the water as water,

Jade Dragon Snow Mountain stands quietly before me,

Not waiting for anyone's praise, just guarding the past.

In the 1920s, the famous explorer and botanist Joseph Rock came here and settled down in this "stone" village.At that time, he dreamed that one day he could die lying among the rhododendron blossoms of Jade Dragon Snow Mountain.

In the early 1930s, Rock sold all his possessions and devoted himself entirely to the study of Naxi culture, and he also became the first person to introduce Lijiang to the world.

Third from left, Rock

April heard Rock's story from the old man at Rock's former residence in Yuhu Village. He is already 68 this year, speaking non-standard Mandarin, but the moment he opened his mouth, I fell into Rock's world.

Yuhu Village is quiet on one side and bustling on the other - the "Torch Cup" football match kicked off with great excitement~

The football field is right at the foot of the snow mountain,

We watched the game while gazing at the snow mountain.

A father carrying his little brother on his shoulders,

The older sister following close by, not daring to fall behind,

Going to cheer for their big brother playing football.

Exploring the kingdom of wild mushrooms

Went mushroom picking with the kids, and later they all asked me, did you come to pick mushrooms or pick flowers? Peony Girl of course came to pick flowers~

The mountain forests of the ancient town are a natural treasure trove of plants,

These flowers and plants - how many have you seen?

Had to pick a bunch to satisfy my creative urge,

My hands were itching~

In the end, I did pick mushrooms,

Let me be a mushroom-picking flower girl.

The Tsingpu friends brought along fruit and snacks,

A picnic in the Lijiang forest - who else has tried it?

Finding joy in herbs

A florist couple from Taiwan, China, traveled from Shanghai to Xi'an, and finally came to Lijiang, bought a Naxi courtyard, filled it with flowers and plants, and couldn't bear to leave.

In the early morning, the teacher picked a basketful of herbs from her own courtyard and brought them to Tsingpu's public space, teaching everyone to identify herbs, make sachets, and make essential oil balms.

The teacher brewed a pot of herbal tea,

The inexperienced Abu,

Drank the entire pot to the last drop.

April was more reserved, only drinking three more cups than the others

Mint, thyme, lemon balm, lemongrass,

Rose geranium, stevia, and more, stuffed into sachets.

The mysterious skill of homemade lip balm was also unlocked by the teacher,

Mix essential oils and propolis, melt over a water bath,

Pour into small containers, and the essential oil balm is made.

Naxi Torch Festival

The luckiest thing about this trip was arriving just in time for the Naxi Torch Festival. The Naxi Torch Festival falls between the 24th and 27th of the sixth lunar month each year. Joining the Naxi people, who are born loving to sing and dance, April played with fire on this day

Before dark,

April was already holding a torch, wandering through the ancient town.

After a few steps, encountered a Torch Plus,

The torch was covered with flowers and plants.

Everyone's torch had flowers tucked into it,

The Naxi Torch Festival also includes flower offerings.

The warm and hospitable Naxi people,

Holding fruits and snacks, handing them out along the way,

Ate until round-bellied and blissful~

Women and children wearing traditional Naxi attire "Pixing Daiyue" (wearing stars and carrying the moon),

Bright, vivid colors,

Nothing jarring, only stunning.

ps: It doesn't matter if you miss this year's Torch Festival - Tsingpu holds a Naxi bonfire party every one or two days

Tea Horse Leather Craft

Traveling the Tea Horse Ancient Road, enduring wind, frost, rain and snow, leather goods are a necessity. Following the teacher, I attended a leather crafting class, unlocking the leather culture of the horse's back.

Brushing paint requires gentleness with precision,

So the dyeing comes out even and vibrant.

Stamping text and symbols requires speed, accuracy, and force.

Before the paint had even dried,

I couldn't wait to put it on and show off.

These fun activities were of course all arranged in advance by the Tsingpu friends,Full board including food, lodging, and entertainment - that's what Tsingpu Lijiang Baisha Retreat does best.

And placing the retreat in a remote ancient town,Tsingpu's character is much like this ancient town itself - not competing, not grabbing, quietly beautiful.

The terrace brings Jade Dragon Snow Mountain into view,

Small windows bring Naxi charm into the rooms.

Wood and local five-flower stone,

Built into a traditional Naxi courtyard.

Eaves curving upward, gracefully shaped,

Tile cats perched high on the roof, gazing at the snow mountain.

The rooms are in a classical Japanese style,

Bright and transparent, every window a view.

Don't envy April's good accommodation - April ate even better, from the fruit and snacks upon arrival to a dinner of eight dishes for two, you'd be so jealous~

Every meal was different,

From traditional Naxi dishes to desserts and staples,

Every bite that entered my mouth made me want to call the chef.

Specialty yak meat, tile tofu, Naxi barbecue,

There are also mushrooms that have just arrived from the mountains this morning,

One bite of this wild mountain delicacy makes you forget your worries.

Before coming here, my friend Abu took one look at the itinerary and said to me anxiously, with all these activities, this isn't going to be one of those tour groups where you sleep on the bus and take photos when you get off, is it?

But in reality, here, even sleeping feels like a waste.

Look up and there are snow-capped mountains, look down and there are flowers and plants, no crowds of tourists pushing past, and the villagers walking over from afar are still living their own quiet little lives.Is this Lijiang the same as the one you've visited?

The Lijiang that Tsingpu Lijiang Baisha Cultural Retreat showed me this time is not the same old ancient town you see everywhere. It's like a gentle and embracing Naxi girl, walking toward you with a smile in her eyes.

Every traveler searching for their soul,

amid the misty clouds on the mountainside,

will find their long-wandering spirit again.

Every passerby who feels lost and lonely,

will find, in the alleys of stone houses,

the emotion long lost from their life.

During those days at Tsingpu, morning and evening, I would sit alone on the terrace in a daze. Looking at the distant Yulong Snow Mountain, I suddenly understood,In this life, living with effort and health is nothing rare. What's rare is living in the city, understanding yet confused, and occasionally letting yourself be enchanted.

Just like that, enchanted in this ancient town...

If you want to come, April has prepared a little treat for you too~

Experience the same all-inclusive trip with food, accommodation and fun as April

Unlock a different Lijiang

Dirt cheap, less than 50% off, only 5 days of deals~